Lots of fun moves -- also lots of loose rock.

Start roughly at center of wide loose gully

which is just Left of the Right Ridge.

. (Not the narrower gully for the route Right Scramble which is just Right of the Right Ridge).

Roughly straight up the gully to reach alcove below left from bolts-with-chain top anchor for the route Right Ridge.

Variation finish (harder than the rest below): Join the route Right side of  R Gully and climb up out of alcove to finish just left of top anchor for Right Ridge.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Almost-Right Wide Gully

Left Gully Edge

Right Ridge

Central Grooves

Central Scramble

Left Face

Left alongside Right Gully

Right Scramble

Central Crack

Left Scramble

Urnas' Edge

Left Gully Shelf

Right alongside Right Gully

Far Left Pine Plus

Central Left Face

Central Right Face

Lots of fun moves.

Start at the bottom of the left-trending diagonal ramp, which is the base of the right ridge. Get established on the rock on left side of ridge, then up diagonal left across the wide gully to directly below the top anchor (roughly at the 3rd bolt).

. . Variation Start -- Shorter direct underneath -- Start roughly directly below the top anchor for this route -- just right of broken crack at L side of wide loose gully (which is just left of the Right Ridge). Up to rejoin main route at 3rd bolt.

Up along left side of wide gully (perhaps with some weaving) to two-bolt anchor which is below right from bush above top of cliff, below right from top anchor for the route "Central Right Face", and horizontal left from top anchor for the route "Right Ridge".

Clip a quickdraw to the bolt just below the top anchor to keep the difficulty at 5.3, done free it's more like 5.5 or at least 5.4.

. . . Variation Finish -- High Left (more difficult): Skip the anchor and instead go up left to the top anchor for the route "Central Right Face".

top-roping

: Could use one or both of the top bolts as a directional for top-roping from the two-bolts-with-chain-and-ramshorn anchor for the route "Central Right Face". Or add sling or cord to the two bolts near the top of this route.

There is a facultative bolt above left from the anchor which can be used for moving either direction between the anchor for this route and the anchor for the route "Central Right Face".

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Some Interesting moves. Too bad it's not longer.

Start up wider lower grooves below right from high gully. Trend a bit left. Finish on left edge of face which forms right boundary of top gully.

top-roping

: Could use the top anchor for the route "Left Face", together with a directional bolt below left from it.

At the top of this routes is a facultative bolt designed to enable reaching the top anchor for the route "Left Face" from

above

the top of the wall from its left side.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Fun moves all the way.

Find the broad ridge at the bottom of the left-trending ramp which is the base of the main upper wall. About 4 ft left from the gully of the Right Scramble route (and 10-12 ft left of Left Chimney of sector 8).

Up the ridge to bush. Dodge around its left side, then continue on ridge above bush, and finish on right side of shallow gully to to right of top anchor for the route to the left of this one.

Top-Roping

: Can use the top anchor for the route to the left of this one.

There is a directional bolt below the bush, which should help to reduce the impact of the falling climber on Top-Rope belay from swinging right-ward.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Some thoughtful moves. Too bad it's not longer.

Start up the wide crack / narrow shallow gully below big sprawling bush above top of wall . . . just left of small bush at top of wall, and a few feet left from small bush hanging over edge.

Straight up to reach bolt anchor.

. . . (a bit below top, could move left to finish at top anchor for the route "Left Face").

. . . (much harder to finish up Right to the top anchor for the route "Central Crack".

Top-Roping: This route has a two-bolt top anchor (with no connect between the bolts, and no rappel or lower-off fixture as of 2019). Or could use this route's top anchor as a directional to use the top anchor for the route "Central Crack". Or could use the bolt below top of this route as a directional for using the top anchor for the route "Left Face".

Traversing to other top anchors: To the Right of the top anchor is a facultative bolt for aid and/or protection for reaching the top anchor of the route "Central Crack".

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Lots of interesting scrambling moves in a variety of situations.

This route is well below the main upper wall of this sector -- at the level of the base of sector 5. Find a giant tree about 25 ft right from the bottom of the Central Gully of sector 5.

. . (More climbing could be added below by starting with the first pitch of the route "Left Scamble", or by climbing a route on Trail Slab of sector 7 then traversing horizontal climber's left).

Start about 10 ft right of that giant tree, below old gnarly bush 10-12 ft up with left-side horizontal branch. Up to that bush - and step over left-side branch. Next climb face just right of mature pine tree (just left of outside-right facing corner).

Gentle on grass a couple feet, across rock a couple feet, next slightly down onto slanted rock. Traverse horizontal across slanted rock to reach near left end of short steeper wall. Step across onto that wall a couple feet above its base, then straight up to reach gentle left-rising ramp.

. . . (which is the base of the main upper wall of this sector).

Walk across the ramp, then finish on the route "Central Grooves" . . .

Up the wide crack / narrow shallow gully below big sprawling bush above top of wall . . . just left of small bush at top of wall, and a few feet left from small bush hanging over edge.

Straight up to reach bolt anchor.

. . . (or could finish instead with a move left to the top anchor for the route "Left Face", or a move right to the anchor for "Cental Crack").

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Some Interesting moves. Too bad it's not longer.

Face under big sprawling bush above top of wall.Up the face between the two obvious cracks. Thinner crack in left side of face is on.

Top-Roping

: Two-bolt anchor at top of route, but no connection between the bolts, and no rappel / lower-off fixture as of 2019.

. . (Perhaps could reach this anchor after leading the route "Central Grooves", then traversing left below top of wall).

Two facultative bolts:

To the Left of this top anchor is a facultative bolt designed to enable reaching this anchor from

above

the top of the wall from its left side.

Another facultative bolt is above left from that one, above the top of this wall, on the right side of the top of a ridge-like rock.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

More interesting than it looks. The climbing is mostly not in the dirty gully, rather stemming across it, or above its right side.

Find the steep gully just right of the bottom of the non-steep diagonal which is the base of the upper part of sector 6 Franosch -- and just left of the Left Chimney route (1 bolt) in lower part of sector 8.

. . Note that while it's safer (from rockfall) to belay top-rope from higher platform about 20 ft south from Silverhorn platform, it's fairly intimidating for a climber to be

lowered

from there down the gully (even though that might save time). Likely better to have a more experienced climber rappel to get the rope down, then have the less experienced climber(s) waiting at the bottom to start from there. Then the belayer can get to the high platform by a different route (e.g. upper part of Left Scramble).

First get up through the grass + dirt to reach bottom of rock. Up the gully using rock on both sides. Perhaps a couple of overhanging traverse moves just after passing the dead tree. Above this, avoid the dirt, instead stay on rock above right side of gully. Near the top, step across dirt easily onto a rock on left side. Then a last big step up across dirt onto the top boulder (under Silverhorn summit overhang) and a thoughtful move up onto boulder's flat top.

Recommended finish to wonderful viewpoint: Continue by hiking up west under the overhang, then step right around to the west side of the SIlverhorn summit knob, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top.

. (This finish is not protected by top-rope belay, so if this final scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier).

Top-Roping

: Obvious top anchor is on the SouthEast side of the summit of the Silverhorn peaklet (obvious knob above right from this sector) -- two bolts connected by chain with ramshorn lower-off. The Silverhorn peaklet can be reached from the top of the upper main wall of this sector by hiking north across slope to the overhang on the south side of the summit, then hike up left, then step right around to its west side, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top. Notice two facultative bolts on SW side of summit knob, which could be used for security to reach the top anchor for Right Scramble, which is across on the SE side. Or if this scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier.

. . . (The SIlverhorn summit could also be reached by leading certain routes in sector 8 Moynier).

Another idea for a top anchor is to use long slings or static rope around a rock horn just above the top boulder of this route (below the overhang of the Silverhorn summit knob). Perhaps the belayer can stand on the obvious wide ledge about 25 ft below left from the Silverhorn knob. The problems with the belayer standing at near the bottom of the route are increased exposure to rockfall hazard for the belayer, and rope-stretch impact for the fallling climber.

Descent

: Can down-climb the upper part of the route "Left Scramble" (4th class), or traverse horizontal south from the Silverhorn about fifty feet or so, then rappel from the top anchor for the route "Left Face". Reaching this anchor requires down-climbing 3rd class with exposure. There are two facultative bolts which could be used to help protect this down-climb. One is just three feet horizontal climber's left from the anchor, the other is 15-20 feet above climber's left from the anchor on the side of a small rock ridge.

. . . (Another option is to hike/bushwhack West to the main hiking trail, then walk easily North down that (likely with a shortcut scramble down to the highway by the NW corner of Silver Lake then a short walk N along the road to finish at the snack bar).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Start easy + fun, then gets thin + thoughtful, with exit obstructed my branches.

Start under small bush at top with branch hanging down onto wall.

Up thinner crack (just right of wider crack) to finish just left of branch hanging down.

Traversing to other top anchors: To the Left of the top anchor is a facultative bolt for aid and/or protection for reaching the top anchor of the route "Central Grooves".

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Lots of interesting scrambling in the upper pitch, also some (easier) in lower pitch.

Top-Roping? Perhaps either pitch

could

be top-roped, but likely works better for someone to Lead it, then have others follow.

The bottom of the lower pitch starts way below most of this sector -- below even sector 5 -- or any rock faces.

Even the upper pitch is mostly way below the main upper wall of this sector -- at the level of the base of sector 5.

pitch 1

: Get to the bottom by going up left from base of sector 7 on herd path to below wide gully full of loose rocks. Start up the short slab just Left past the bottom of the loose gully. Up the right-side ridge. After passing left of big pine tree, reach rather wide ledge. Across this to right side of short slab. Up onto the right side of its top, then step down to just above twin pine trees, and reach the bottom of the route Central Gully of sector 5 - (could belay using tree as anchor).

Variation P1 finish (harder like 5.5 or at least 5.4): Instead stay left and climb directly up next slab to belay using big tree above left as anchor).

between pitches: From the bottom of the Central Gully in sector 5 walk up gentle right 25 ft to reach pine tree with very thick trunk.

. . . (Start of pitch 2 could also be reached by climbing a route on Trail Slab of sector 7, then hike horizontal Left).

pitch 2

: Straight up rock face behind big tree. When reach steep obstruction, aim (left-ward) for giant gnarly bush. Next pass through under right side of that bush. Emerge into gentle grass. Next aim for high rock gully with non-large tree at top left -- up some rock to reach left-tranding diagonal ramp which is base of main upper wall of sector 6. Diagonal up left to top of (narrowing) ramp.

. . . Variation finish: Instead cross the ramp and up short face to pine bush (which is the route "Far Left Tree Plus").

From top of diagonal ramp, continue left above for a few feet, then sharp right into careful traverse onto gentle ground above left fron top of upper main wall.

Recommended continuation: Hike horizontal Right about 50-75 ft to reach overhanging south face of the Silverhorn knob. Turn Left to join the finish of the route "Right Scramble" and get up west side (or north ridge) of Silverhorn summit knob.

Descent

: Can down-climb the upper part of this route, or rappel from the top anchor for the route "Left Face". Reaching this anchor requires down-climbing 3rd class with exposure. There are two facultative bolts which could be used to help protect this down-climb. One is just three feet horizontal climber's left from the anchor, the other is 15-20 feet above climber's left from the anchor on the side of a small rock ridge.

. . . (Another option is to hike/bushwhack West to the main hiking trail, then walk easily North down that (likely with a shortcut scramble down to the highway by the NW corner of Silver Lake then a short walk N along the road to finish at the snack bar).

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

If only the two crux sequences were longer. Pumpy lower crux and thoughtful tricky top crux.

Top crux can be done on its own by starting from the top boulder of the route Right Scramble -- traverse right onto face.

Find the steep gully just right of the bottom of the non-steep diagonal which is the base of the upper part of sector 6 Franosch -- and just left of the Left Chimney route (1 bolt) in lower part of sector 8.

Up the dirt to reach bottom of rock. Head for dead tree to right under steep overhang. Right-ward over tree, then diagonal left up through overhang.

Next roughly straight up the slab about 6 ft left of the bolts for ??

. . . (Easier if go more left closer to the gully, but does not offer perceptual warmup for top crux).

Aim for small shallow broken dihedral in top steep section. But then move Left from that to join the left edge Arete where it curves left and becomes a bit less than vertical.

. . . (? Variation : project 5.11? Finish up the shallow broken dihedral).

Crux is getting over to, then established over the edge of the arete.

Finish directly up it to reach the summit of the Silverhorn.

Top-Roping

: Obvious top anchor (shared with the route "Right Scramble") is on the SouthEast side of the summit of the Silverhorn peaklet (obvious knob above right from this sector) -- two bolts connected by chain with ramshorn lower-off. The Silverhorn peaklet can be reached from the top of the upper main wall of this sector by hiking north across slope to the overhang on the south side of the summit, then hike up left, then step right around to its west side, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top. Notice two facultative bolts on SW side of summit knob, which could be used for security to reach the top anchor for this route, which is across on the SE side. Or if this scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier.

. . . (Or the SIlverhorn summit could also be reached by leading certain routes in sector 8 Moynier.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Some Interesting moves. Too bad it's not longer.

Start under groove 10 ft up below gully. Up the groove, finish directly over right side of short steep face blocking middle top of gully.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Some thoughtful moves and some fun moves.

Start just right of wide loose gully

which is just Left of the Right Ridge.

. (Not the narrower gully for the route Right Scramble which is just Right of the Right Ridge).

Climb on the more solid rock outside the gully. Soon pass left of some plates. Later might move right closer to the ridge. Then trend a bit left to reach alcove below left from bolts-with-chain top anchor for the route Right Ridge.

Climb up out of alcove to finish to (or just left of) bolt anchor with lower-off

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Fun face moves up to pine bush -- "plus" a short thoughtful ridge.

Start at high left side of main upper wall at broken rock below pine bush on Left side of gully, just right of where base ramp shows a steeper rock.

Up the face, pass right of tree, finish on short ridge above to gentle knob.

top-roping

: One idea for a top anchor is to use a static line from one of the trees higher above left from top of route. Reach this by going up left to top of diagonal ramp and scrambling up above that.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Some intersting moves -- easier in lower part, harder + lichen-encrusted near top.

Start under directional bolt below right from bush hanging down over top edge of wall. Roughly straight up to finish at directional bolt.

Top-Roping

: Simple approach is to use the two-bolt top anchor for the route "Central Right Face" together with lower directional bolt near top of this route. Or use the two-bolt top anchor for the route "Central Crack. Or use a long sling to connect the two bolts near the top of this route.

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Interesting moves much at similar difficulty.

Start below Central two-bolt top anchor (whicb is left below bush above top of wall, and right from bush hanging down on cliff).

Higher up likely easier to finish a bit right of anchor, harder finish to its left.

top-roping

: There is a facultative bolt below right from the anchor which can be used for moving either direction between the anchor for this route and the anchor for the route "Central Right Face".

warning

: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 6-Franosch