This is a fun extension to

PEMA

. The crux is passing the bulge at the 3rd bolt, staying right is easier (5.9+), going left out the bulge is 5.10ish.

Prince Charming Left

For a Few Quickdraws More

Ruby Slippers

Princess Ella's Magical Adventure

Hang 'em High

The Mist

Prince Charming Extension

Princess Ella`s Happy Ending

A Fistful of Awesome

El Sueno

High Plains Crimper

This is an alternate ending to

PEMA

.  Follow the right bolt line over the bulge for the last pitch.

A fun crux start, then easier ground leads to a final exciting overhang.  This has great rock with a bit of lichen, it should clean up with traffic.  This shares an anchor with

Hang 'em High

.

This is the easiest way up the main Waterfall Wall and good fun.

Pitch 1: climb the first pitch of

El Sueño

, a bolted, left-facing corner. Keep going left past the first anchors to the anchors of Rocket Launcher's pitch 1.

Pitch 2: clip the first bolt of Rocket Launcher, then go left on a cool diagonal crack in the face. Then follow bolts to the top. Save a 0.75 C4 for the hard moves after the last bolt.

Variation:  skip the rappel and the first pitch. Go up easy cracks to the bolts on pitch 2.

This is a scenic, little, 4-pitch outing on Red Mountain Pass.  It has a short approach, great views, and solid quartzite rock.  There is an exciting headwall finish.  Thanks to the first ascensionists for the work to put in this nice moderate (think bell-shaped curve.)  Bring granny!

This is the left-most route on the 'Eastwood Headwall'.  This steep slab is a glacially cleaned and polished quartzite, which makes for nice clean climbs (at least for Ouray County).  The first bolt is about 8 feet off the sidewalk.  Follow about 8 bolts up slabby terrain to a little steepness at the top.

Start up

El Sueño

for 3 bolts, then head right up the slab - beware of a huge, precarious block! Clip a couple more bolts, and embark on a great/bizarre overhanging crack going left. Once above this, meander up to the second ramp and "concoct" a belay. Now edge your way up past three bolts to where you really wish there was one more and get an "I wish it was WAY better" cam, then step up into the upper headwall and happily a great hold and cam. Go all the way to the

El Sueño

anchor.

This pitch serves as a continuation of the very popular

Princess Ella's Magical Adventure

. Climb past a short crack to a good stance on the right. Follow a shallow, left-facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor.

This has 5 pitches of climbing with some great sections connected by a few low-angle bits. It has an awesome setting just downriver from the Waterfall Wall proper. This is another creation from the PEMA mastermind. There is a roof crux down low (with a bypass option) and a fun headwall at the top. It has very solid rock, especially for Ouray County. NOTE: No fist-jamming is required.

P1. Green Slab, 5.6, 100 feet (?). From the water's edge of Red Mountain Creek, look for a vegetation-free green slab that trends up and right past a couple of bolts to a ledge with a big tree.

P2. Ditreedral Roof, 5.10, 100 feet. Continue up green rock through a balancy dihedral to a well-protected, big roof. The crux is reach dependent. Finish up a short face past a big snag to a bolted belay on another great ledge. NOTE: There is a great 5.7 bypass option that takes a face crack above the ditreedral to the left.

P3. The Wave, 5.8, 100 feet. Scramble up some lower angle steps to a steep, fun, juggy prow then through another upper wave to a huge ledge with a giant pine tree.

P4. Forest, 5.7, 105 feet. Climb past a couple of short faces through the forest, then wander up and right on low angle rock to a two-bolt belay on the sidewalk ledge.

P5. 'Best 5.9 pitch in Ouray County', 100 feet. Climb straight up from the belay on amazing rock with choice edging moves. Don't forget to enjoy the views of the Uncompahgre Gorge. There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top. It is possible to walk off from the top, but it is better to rap/lower to the sidewalk ledge.

This is one of my favorite climbs in Ouray and the location is just spectacular.  Gear is only needed for the last pitch.  Pitch one and two are bolted.  Keep in mind that once you rap in, you're committed to climbing out.  Keep in mind that the San Juans are subject to Colorado's afternoon storm systems.  The first pitch may get wet in the spring from high water flow and mist from the waterfall.  This wall gets late morning sun until about 2pm and then goes into the shade.

Pitch 1 (10b, 29m): Starts at the big trees at the bottom of the cliff. Follow bolts left to a left facing corner and to an anchor.

Pitch 2 (11b, 24m): Step right and climb a broad "S" shaped arête to an off balance layback flake.

Pitch 3 (11a, 24m): Climb flake to the right of the belay and up left facing corner.  Follow bolts to the top anchor.

Scramble climbers left down a slab (like eldo's lower ramp) and into the gully.  There are anchors at the lip of the slab that you can also rappel to avoid down climbing.

If things don't go well, you can continue left from the top of the first pitch to another anchor.  Continue left up a thin crack on a slab (5.9 trad; small gear) to bolts. From here, you can easily down climb back to the forest and hike out.

There are other routes on this wall from 5.10 to 5.12.  See the guidebook at Ouray Mountain Sports for more info.

A tricky start leads to a few bolts of crimps then easier terrain above.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Waterfall Wall