A great climb.  According to Bloom, this is one of the best unnamed climbs in the creek.

Start in the thin corner and power up on fingers to a good jam up and left in a pod of the neighboring crack, perhaps 8 meters. then climb thin hands for about 8 more meters to good stems and opposition moves for rest. Pass another move or two to reach better jams and a widening crack to go to the anchors.

The Last Day

Brother From Another Planet

Cactapuss

Jewel of Denial

White Salamander

No Beggin'

The Dude

White Cracker Killer

Double Trouble

Finnegan's Whiskers

Crappucino

Nagasaki

Finless Brown

Court Summons

Walkin' Talkin' Bob

Salmon Run

The Flake

Unknown finger crack L of Crappucino

Strike and Dip

Beauty and the Beast

Third World Lover

Feliz de Fin

Virgin Voyage

Nukanator

Skid Row

Wrasse

Dirty street Fight

Flight Time

Hot Fun Sunday

The Feltcher

Fintastic

Force It In

Fin del Mundo

Finito

Demolition

Fin del Mundo is a shallow, steep, and thin left facing corner above the top of the trail at the fin.  Negotiate some sandy chinle horizontals and set up for the thin laybacking above.  Powerful moves get you into a tips and fingers enduro corner with a few moves of thin hands before the anchors.

Climb a varied right facing corner to a splitter hand crack that brings you to a 10' offwidth roof. Take advantage of the good rest before committing to the cruxy 8' that follows. Invert, then bust out the roof and around the lip into the squeeze finish.

An exellent route (if you dig inverted OW's) See Bloom Guidebook PG. 127 for further beta...

Fun bouldery start with a few face holds. Rest up in a good hand jam pod then launch into splitter fingers and tight fingers to the chains

Starts at a 10' offwidth that abruptly closes to a one inch crack.

Do an ow move, establish yourself in the crack, lieback or jam this for 15' (crux, .5 camalots) to a hand jam.  A couple of moves of potentially tricky face climbing (green aliens)lead to easier ground and an easy/fun chimney. A fun roofish move exits the chimney and leads to more cruising fun, hands up a less than vertical corner.

5 star route on the wall. Black varnish, top to bottom. steep, stemming corner starts tiny fingers and thankfully opens up to good fingers.

Not a hard climb. Much easier than most simimlarly rated climbs and does not require much crack-climbing skill. A great warm up...

...in hiking boots.

This mostly right-facing corner/crack/flake takes mixed gear from mostly good stances. The unusual thing about this climb, for indian creek, is the number of footholds on it available as rests.

Climb up some so-so pillars and then up and right, then back left on the crack to some fixed anchors.

To descend, rap to the ground.

A completely forgotten classic!  This is a fantastic pitch of rock climbing and is very worth the fuss to get to.

This route is varied and extremely pumpy, with a savage finger crack to get things started, to a roof, a short section of bolt protected funkness, and a final reds and greens megasplitter pumpfest before the final golden glory to the chains.  You and your partner will be crying wee wee wee all the way home after this one!

Start by climbing Walkin' Talkin' Bob (5.10) and traverse left and upward from the anchors.  You will pass an odd huge stud sticking out of the wall (sling it) and then move up an OW flare and some random nonsense to reach a slightly inconveniently placed two bolt anchor.  The anchor is to the right of a comfortable ledge and creates a hanging belay... so bring a couple extra 0.3s and build a gear anchor in a more comfortable position on the ledge.

Now go for the business!

Beautiful finger to thin finger crack.  It's only 30 ft., but you have to work for it.  Very strenuous.  The climb is in between Walkin' Talkin' Bob and Brother From Another Planet.  A huge boulder hides the start of this route.  Start in a right facing corner and layback up to the roof.  Pull up and left out of the roof in order to switch into the left facing corner.  Use the face out left for your left foot.  Sweet line.

Beautiful climb.  If facing the buttress, it is two routes right of Nagasaki and left of Beauty and the Beast.  If you don't know where Nagasaki is, it is approximately a 1 minute hike right of Skid Row.  Skid Row is a dramatic finger crack with a roof that you have to layback 80% of the route.  Don't be misled by heading right and dropping your gear at the first right facing corner twin crack system.  Go 20 more meters to the next right facing corner with a twin crack system.  Shameless beta follows in case you don't want it: layback the left side crack system at the top rather than working the funky right crack.

70 M rope absolutely suggested.

In the Guide, this climbed is called "Unnamed", but we thought it was way to good to go unnamed, so we named it. If you disagree, let us know and we'll change it back.

Start chimneying between the main face and a short block along a thin finger crack until you can stand on the block. Then, gain a long, winding flake that creates a crack that goes from hands to fist, through a blocky off-width and back to small hands to finish. There's a thin, .3 Camalot sized, finger crack just left of the main crack. Move through a tight squeezing, long reaching, hands roof to a two bolt anchor.

Some fun, thin moves off the ground in to hands to cupped hands then fists right before the crux - a #6 camalot roof with some stacks and ow moves in to some squeeze. A blue big bro may be useful good to see you to the anchors.

After 17 years of climbing and walking the cliffs of the creek trying to get up some climbs and failing on most, but like everyone I got the FA bug an started putting up climbs of my own .. all with a hand drill an the help of some of my hero's of the golden age of the creek.. i have raised a son out in the creek . loved . lost . an have had the best times of my life in the creek getting strong.. i have got older, became a desert rat and have keep track of all my FAs and this was my 100.

Three star moves on two star rock. Everyone I saw follow it loved it though a few leaders were a bit wigged out up there.This is the narrow right-facing corner close to the left end of Finn Wall. A few distingusing features are the wide inset at the start with a little calcite on the left side of the inside of this corner, the "chunky" looking band 1/2 way up, which is actually very good rock and not generally loose, and then at the top the thin cracks and flakes to the left of the dihedral for the last 10+ meters, which are the crux.

Climb this to the top, up high stemming and long moves between the best locks are the keys to success. The anchor is an open hanger + bolt with a fixed biner. Not ideal for TR-ing. If you do, clove-hitch or girth-hitch the sling to the 'open' to keep it seated.

The climb requires a 70M rope to lower off or TR.

Fully "mega" and a candidate for the hardest 5.10 anywhere (that's not the Crack of Fear) this pitch has four different cruxes any one of which would probably justify the 10+ rating given in Bloom's guide and preserved here.

This climb starts just left of No Beggin' at a right facing corner/crack which has a section of fists through a roof about 20' above the deck.  Climb easily up to the start of the roof then pull it (crux 1) and gain a welcome stance.  About 30' of easier thin hands climbing in a corner leads to a ledge where there used to be bolts.  It probably makes sense to break the climb into two pitches and belay here because crux two is just above the ledge and decking is a possibility.  Crux 2 features an overhanging thin hands or lieback corner on suspect rock an edge of which broke on me as I was liebacking it.  The corner is followed by airy face/crack climbing on more dubious rock leading to a semi-stance below a roof.  Figure out a way around the roof (crux 3).  Another stretch of easier climbing leads to a final 15' of thin fingers in an oblique corner (crux 4) and the anchors.

Four stars worth of climbing but I subtracted a star each for the bad rock and distracting ledge around crux two.

Awesome route with 4 distinct sections. 70m rope needed.  Plenty of rests makes this pitch very approachable.

The first section is a bouldery start off the ground.  Definitely 10+ish.  I placed doubled yellows alien right before the move, and then a red alien part way through.

Then you get a nice section of mixed-size jamming with occasional stemming feet.

Next up is a 40' section of green (#.75) Camalots.  Normally this would be desperate thrutching and aid climbing for me, but there is an awesome offset wall to the left with good feet and you can do the whole section with chimney moves.  Unlimited no hands rests all the way up.

Then you get to a huge resting ledge where you can contemplate the business.

And the business is about 30 feet of tight hands (#1 Camalots)  Power through this as the angle kicks back and you get rewarded with some bomber hand jams (#2 Camalots) and finally some wide hands (#3 Camalots) up over the roof.  I brought a 3.5" Camalot but never placed it.

To the right about 25 feet of Brother From Another Planet. Start on a 8 foot pedestal.Climb up, then left, then up again in an off-width to 2 rings.

This is a cool finger to fist crack with a tenuous bouldery and height-dependent crux which is adequately protected by one bolt.

Safely protect the slightly rotten/sandy moves to the bolt and make the reach! Crank out the sweet leaning finger moves and turn the corner to the obvious stance. Get stoked and jam the widening left facing corner (mostly combo of some #2's and then #3's and maybe one #4) with some pods to the anchor.

A 70M rope had a bit remaining after lowering.

Do this route! Keep it from getting too sandy!!!

If facing the buttress, it's left of Brother From Another Planet.  Start on top of some stacked blocks and climb hands in a right-facing flake system.

Climb up a hollow-sounding flake then up through a short right-facing corner to a tight hands roof.  Pull the roof and climb through a tight slot with thin hand jams in the back.  Finish up with splitter tight hands.

Thin hands in a right facing, off-set jagged flake. Short and engaging.

I think this is what Bloom calls "Walkin' Talkin' Bob" in the book, but that route is further left.

Just Left of Crappacino there is a thin finger-crack in a shallow left-facing corner.  This ascends on small gear .5" to 1", heavy on small blue and grey camalots) for 80+ feet.

The crux comes punching through a thin section 2/3 of the way up the route.

The anchor up top is pretty much junk- 3 bolts, 2 without hangers and with cord/webbing threaded behind washers.  We replaced the cord on it, but it needs more than that to be safe.  Take a wrench and some hangers, as well as a few quicklinks or chain if you want to upgrade it!

"Striking" corner starts with awkward, physical big fingers, take a break and gather your guns for the nice, sharp layback finish. An endurance testpiece for the grade.

Start with about 10 feet of face climbing to get to a tight, right-facing corner in great looking dark rock.

This is the left-most route published on the Fin Wall.It is charicterized by it's twin cracks, the left one being 2 meters of blocks and choss to a good hand crack and the right one being an obvious right-facing offset that goes from thing hands to tight tips before opening to perfect hands up higher.Make use of the two cracks, starting right, then moving left quickly to the top of the left crack (it reaches the arete to the left) and then using the right crack to go up and on to a set of anchors.For a challenge, us the left crack only to it's end (5.10c) or the right crack only (5.11d)

Start with easy climbing up the right side of a small detached pillar. Start on fingers up a varied crack to the right of a large roof for 30 feet. This puts you on top of the large pillar just below the beautiful varnished right facing corner. Climb the wide fists and off width corner for 30 feet to a good rest. Then comes the happy ending! Climb a hidden hand crack inside the large OW chimney to the anchors!

The bottom half is a less than vertical corner (~5.9) crack with rests crack that widens from 3 Friends to 4 Friends.  The upper half of the pitch overhangs and is more consistent in size, 3.5 Friends or blue Camalots.

A pretty great line, but docked a star because I decided midway through the crux upper section that I really don't like fist jamming.

It is a nice route that is more fun than it looks and deceptively hard and easy, at the same time. It is steeper than it looks (harder) yet the locks are killer for small fingers (mine) and there are great rests from which to put in gear (easier).

The best strategy is to go for it, placing and resting when stances are found.

We clmbed this one last year. Left of Fletcher, starts with a bolt and face climbing, then moves into a tight right facing corner, then into a steep left facing corner.

Climb mainly off-fingers up a right-facing corner to a roof.  Pull through the roof and continue a short ways to the chains.  Good route despite the fact it's often sandy.

Approximately 50 feet right of Fintastic is a hand crack that starts from a loose rubble-covered ledge directly below a large horizontal roof with a chimney behind it.  The crack changes from hands to fists and back to hands before going through a rotten band and then up to a double-bolt chain anchor on top of a large flake.  This route took a lot of cleaning and needs more so I named it after a cleaner fish.

Start inside the chimney an do so till you can work yer way over to a ledge about 20 ft up shimmy back in side till you wedge at 3o ft place a blue Big Bro on a sling then move back to the front of the crack using sidewinder, with yer hips in an head out till you are able to place a #6 up high using a chicken wing hand down body sideways clip that #6 an swing out of the crack to a so so ledge #5-.4 camlot will see you to the top in to the sickest room with some bomber chins ...

This is a great route and a good lead for someone just getting into 5.12 at the Creek.  The finger crack is sustained but there are good finger locks all the way to the top.

How pumpy can a 70' route be anyway?  OK, come find out.The climb is a striking, shallow dark, right-facing corner well left on the Fin Wall. This is perhaps 100M right of Crappichino. There is a plaque at the base last I saw.

Climb up from the base and set overhead pro. Move up to a stance with a wider jam, place more overhead pro and then gun for a while in off-size jams or a hard lieback to reach a narrow stance on decent feet 2/3 of the way up. Maybe you placed more pro, or maybe you risked a fall. Arrive exhausted and rest on the foot to the left of the crack, place gear and and then gun up a few more mvevs to a good jam, placing more pro. Go for the awkward finish with a large piece, or perhaps above your gear.

If you can't jam this size, you might not get much gear. Though you can get more, I suspect it's a "4-piece" route for many non-jamming folks unless they hang or are mutants. The anchor is just above the slopey topout and is exciting to get to. Please Rap off instead of lower to avoid beating the rock with your rope. If you set a TR, please consider a long sling or cordalette.

The name on the plaque is Fletcher, although Bloom's guidebook refers to this as 'The Feltcher.' But why would anyone name a good route like that?

Climb to a corner and protect it, then climb into a band of questionable rock. Carefully place a 3" cam (or so) in a solid horizontal, then move up a thin crack, protecting that, and adding slings on the right. GO left out and up a flake (stemming crux) and left out the top of a small roof to a crack. Traverse back right (balance crux) and follow the thin hands crack and corner to the top as it widens (enduro crux).

This pitch would be a must do almost anywhere else although it does not justify its name.

The crux is at the start, reaching past a blank section with the only pro a small nut at your shins.  Note that at a height of around 5' 5" this move would become much harder.  Above this work the double cracks (wide hands on R, wide fingers on L) with a couple of stances encountering a hard move where the cracks converge.

The pitch can be done with just the right crack at about 10+.

A slippery right facing stemming corner that is rarely big enough to admit even fingertips.  As a result this route is a full body pump, both delicate and powerful.

Fingers up a left facing corner, undercling out a roof and continue up crack with mostly fingers and a few tight hand jams.  There are some features to use for your feet as well.

Long, steep, and on aesthetically pleasing red Wingate, this right-facing corner holds its own with the many other classics at the Fin.  Reminiscent of the long corner on Powders of Persuasion, and just as good.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fin Wall