Got on this before I knew which route was which. I intended to do

Simple Simon

but the big starting holds on this made me think I was on

Simon

. But the route just kept going and had moves that were way harder than 11b. I was really enjoying the sequences though so I decided to just climb it. Granted it took a few more tries..

The Higher, Harder One

Where's My Sherpa?

Everest 201

Sick at 17000

JP's Variation

More Obsessive Tendencies

Fallout aka Disintegration

Texas Chosspile

Simple Simon

Smash the Poser

Back in the Saddle

Hamster Forever

After a bouldery start, follow the jugs to where the old route (Everest 101) stops. Rest just above here, and blaze through the amazingly cool crux sequence to the top, thoroughly pumped.

A short, easy gear route on an otherwise all-bolt wall. Start at the base in a shallow, irregular left-facing corner and follow a jagged crack until it ends, and then follow the remaining dihedral to the anchors. Gear for the first half, two bolts for the second half.

The route doesn't look like much but does have a couple of fun moves on it.

A steep, juggy route on sharp quartzite that starts on the left side of the ledge that is under the

Superbowl

roof. This route climbs to the left of the roof itself.

The start looks intimidating because if you fell (which would be hard to do) before clipping the first bolt you might slip off the ledge.

However, the start isn't bad and the rest of the route is mostly a jug haul with good feet needed. After the last bolt the angle eases to the chains.

One bolt variation to

Back in the Saddle

, originally created to be an easier start but ended up being slightly harder. The crux is the first few moves. Match on the starting hold, reach for a left-hand crimp, then a right-hand slanting rail. A couple more crimpers, then get your feet set and throw high to a jug. The angle then eases a little but save some gas for the finish.

The first 3 bolts is strenuous with no feet with sloping holds. Just grunt up this to a nice no hands rest. Moving up to the old chains placement is really fun - supposedly 11b to this point, I thought it was easier. Big moves to big holds.

At the old chain placement the moves get trickier and steeper. It slopes in slightly then bulges out. The next 3-4 moves is the obvious crux. As you reach this insloping area find crimps - then to an interesting triangular pocket, a pinch, a crimp then a bigger hold at the next crease.  Once thru it you are rewarded with awesome traversing jugs to the chains. You'll be pumped and exposed but the holds are there.

Climb jugs and good crimps to a couple of blocky pinches, a right hand crimp up high that can be hard to see, then make a big dynamic move to a good hold with your left hand. Make sure your belayer doesn't short you when your feet cut and swing out. Short but sweet and powerful.

After a hard start, you get to make some big moves from big holds.

Overhanging roof with great jugs, although 1 or 2 key holds are hidden. Some reachy moves may be hard for short people.  The entire route is overhung with barely any weight on your feet until the anchors.  Climb it fast as you get pumped out of your mind hanging there looking for the next moves.

Fun strong route.

Great photo op with the valley & lake in the background

Short, but very steep.

At bolt three is a very squirrelly and awkward crux—awkward the way I did it at least. Third to fourth bolt is a big,

very

fun reach and then the route trends left to chains.

You are pretty much hanging on your arms the whole way. Your hands will get abused on this route with no rests.

Go get 'em.

A bouldery start leads to sharp jugs, big slopers and airy moves.

The crux of the route is probably getting off the ground. There are two variations to the start:

The right variation is .10d and starts with a very bouldery move after which you move to the left to clip the second bolt. You can clip the first bolt from the ground. The move is committing and feels rather stiff for the grade.

The left variation to the start is .11a and feels quite a bit harder than the .10d variation. The route continues straight up from here.

Redpoint crux is probably climbing past the 5th bolt.

A fun climb up sharp and sometimes broken quartzite. The holds are mostly positive edges (including jugs) with a few sidepulls and pinches thrown in for fun. The footwork is fun in a few spots.

Most of the route is a bit less than vertical but it steepens just before the chains. There is a good rest just before the steeper part.

The crux is in the last fifteen or twenty feet before the chains: a small roof and a bit of overhang.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Super Bowl Wall