Get ready for some perma-grin.... This climb uses technical moves on beautiful stone and a lot of possible variations to tuck yourself under the large, notched roof. Don’t hang out here too long.... I would suggest going up.

Pegging the Fun Meter

Crimson Crime

Red Herring

Playing With Fire

There are multiple options to pass the technical climbing and reach the start of the main left-facing dihedral about 15 feet up. Set good gear at the top of the dihedral and over the small roof to make the step back onto the face.

Traverse right on lower slabs and ledges. About halfway up the climb, you will have the option to follow two distinctly different lines. The right variation is easier than the left variation. The right version follows jugs up a few steep moves. The left version goes through scooped, thinner section.

In the late afternoon, the belayer should be prepared for some sunshine!

This is steeper than it looks....  Walk up the slabby apron to the third bolt located under the small headwall roof. Tiptoe left through a zone of easy, fractured rock to gain the ledge at the base of the major dihedral. Fire up the juggy, overhanging headwall following the weaknesses of the changing dihedrals, and hang on through the airy finish.

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Location

Protection

Routes in The Red Wall