This exciting Congo Corner edition is a stiff lead!  Do not be sucked in unknowingly to its initial 9+ moves.  Climb through those edgy face moves to the short crack.  Jam up this to the second bolt.   Delicately work through some small under clings and traverse left. Be rewarded by a "thank God hold to clip the next bolt.  Move up and right to clip the fifth and take a big breath. The BIG crux move is followed by small edges  on good face, thus avoiding the corner on the right.  This is a VERY technical line throughout!

Ape Shit

Shere Khan

Oranguterror

Daktari

The Missing Link

Broad Bagert Crack

Bad Banana Dreams

Axl Rose's Intro

Jungle Boogie

Daniel Quinn

Nairobi

Monkey Trick

Allelopathy Arete

King Kong

Man Next Door

Flaky Chimp

Funky Monkey

Rikki-Tikki-Tavi

Knuckle Draggers Needed

Upton Sinclair

Yours Truly

Furious George

Concrete Jungle

A Fez for Your Monkey

Welcome to the Jungle

Dusty Springfield

Baloo's Nightmare

Great Rift Valley

Daniel Dravot

Monkey Business

Rudyard Kipling

Congo Crack

Kipling's Short Story

Monkey Fist

Your Bones Will Crack

The Septuagenarian

Prehensile Tail Preferred

Every Body Drops

Bring the Machete

Diverging Evolution

The Overdoit

Carry On Up the Khyber

Ipso facto

Fire Away

Homo cragus

Opposable Thumbs Required

Blue Collar Ape

Tyger, Tyger, Burning Bright.

Mistah Kurtz - he dead.

Hear the Music

Terra Incognita

Nit Picking

George

Coco's Lichen It

Easy like Sunday Morning

Gone For Good

Star of  Astoroth

Bungle in the Jungle

Cave Dog

Gooseberry Corner

Restless Natives

Stross vs. Kipling

Hey Hey We're The Monkeys

Java Man

Dr. Livingstone, I Presume?

Pygmy

The Man Who Would Be King

Peachy Carnehan

This sport route is even better as the thin edges have lost the lichen. The second clip is important!  This is the first pitch crux and if you peel after pulling rope prior to the clip...there is a possibility of hitting something hard on the fall.  The stance is what we all thought was the best option, but still...be careful!  As of 6/15/14 there is now a second pitch.  The 11d moves are on this pitch and come at the second to last bolt.  The first pitch is still an 11a.  You can do the entire thing as one pitch if you have forearms like Popeye OR go to the shared anchor with "Coco's Lichen It" as before.  So...

Pitch I  Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.  This anchor is shared with the crack just to the left.  Climb up the arete then left on to the face.  The line is mostly straight up until the last bolt when it turns left.

Pitch II  Traverse right from the last bolt of pitch I and head up and toward the wall (which looks doable...check it out on the top rope) and then straight up, clipping the last of six bolts before reaching the two bolt anchor.  A 60 meter rope will suffice. This pitch was a collaborative effort!  Early in the 2014 season R. Magner and I bolted and cleaned it a bit. The lateness of the day and the rocks wizzing by our heads sent us home with the job unfinished.  Later, Alexie and Drew finished cleaning it.  Then in late Aug. the FFA (see coments below).

Start up a small left facing corner, then face climb up and then left onto the arete. Some tricky moves back right leads you to a flake and then to the base of nice fingercrack.

Up this to the anchor.

Great climb on perfect rock.

Nice climbing that builds the higher you go.

The route starts with consistent 9+ and 10a moves on the east side of the block then traverses around the corner to the north side where the climbing and the rock quality both get harder.  At the sixth bolt, use a long runner and then start following the line that arches right.  The line that goes left is another route (Jungle Boogie).  You must traverse a thin section to a large ledge which is around the corner and not obvious.  The traverse is the first crux but really fun. Clip the high bolt on the ledge with a runner.  The lower grey hanger is part of the direct start(a.k.a. Java Man).  Follow the ramp past two more bolts.  The real crux is now getting past the final and twelth bolt.  While on the north side you will be out of the sight- line of your belayer...comunication is key while making these crutial clips!

This crack starts as an off-width and is a bit awkward but soon turns to hands and the face edges also help.  The upper section of the crack merges with "Upton Sinclair" and they share the same chains.

Starts on great rock then takes you to the interface  between poor quality and good rock.  At this point, two bolts lead you right with your feet on the good rock to chains.

The first moves are the crux.  After this the crack takes small cams well and the face is fun to climb.  The upper bolted section looks hideous, but nonetheless has solid edges to move into the chimney.  Stay off the floor (loose rock) and move up the chimney clipping bolts.

This is a climb where every move seems to be either a 9+ or a 10a.  The more unusual moves, thus the crux, are between the 7th and the 8th bolts.  As you start, try to stay right of the less than solid rock.  Rock quality improves as you go higher. As you climb follow the line that arches left.  At the sixth bolt another route (The Missing Link) takes off right and around the corner.  This is much harder climbing!  The two routes share the same start but have separate anchors.

This route starts hard and gradually gets easier.  As more climbing goes on here the lichen will disapear and the holds will become more positive.

The FA started up the crack/face then moved on to the face proper by the second bolt. We later did it direct and up's the ante to 11a.

Great Rock.

This is an excellent sport crack in a paper thin line that opens to finger locks on a smooth face.

Climb the arete (mostly on the left side, or directly on it, using both sides) passing 9 bolts on the way to a two bolt/chain anchor.  Good rock, with very technical climbing at the crux and sustained climbing throughout.

10 bolts + chains

the start still needs some cleaning but the upper section is pretty solid

Tricky moves to a bouldery crux, then nice wall climbing to finish. Great rock

Five bolts through some iffy holds leads to chains.

Climb the arete while using the shaded north face past five bolts of fun moves.

Superb and sustained climbing up the blunt arete leads you to a good rest where you were hoping the anchor was going to be. Look up at the overhanging crack, take a deep breath and off you go. Wild finish, brilliant route.

This route is on a north, right-facing dihedral.  Using the first move of "Diverging Evolution" crack, reach over left and clip the first bolt before stepping out on the face.  Three bolts later you reach a ledge and are able to clip the fourth bolt for the crux move.  The crux can be height-dependent and shorter climbers may need to make the clip and climb down working left onto the arete.  In any event, the arete leads to chains.  Really fun route!

The opening move requires a "dyno" if you are less than 6'1" but all moves are well protected with the four bolts all in the right places. You then move right to a sloping ledge where the crack begins; up and left to chains.  This anchor is above the anchor for "Rudyard Kipling," you pass this anchor on your left after clipping the fourth bolt.  Way too bad the rock quality deteriorates so as to prevent topping out on the tower!

Scramble up shelf and climb face to shallow corner.

Pitch 1: Climb up the sustained thin crack 10ft right of Rikki Tikki Tavi. Good gear with face climbing movement. Gently pull over or skirt around the upper blocks (too solid to trundle) and walk the ramp right to a bolted anchor. A throw away approach pitch, climb P2 before rating the line 5.10

Pitch 2: Where else to go but up the tips layback! Float your way up the splitter and mantle up under the roof. Look upward and ponder reaching the overhead bolt while as pumped as you are. Once past the bolt, trend left to a hidden crack, then up through a short flare chimney. Clip one last bolt to keep your follower safe, then step left to an anchor and scenic stance. 5.11+

Single rap from the top anchor gets you down with a 60m

Climb the face past a blank looking corner to the anchor, just left of a bush.

A bit of a chausey crack with a bolt mid way up.  This route most likely was designed to set up an anchor for the route just left which is hard and very good.

Five bolts straight up a mini dihedral then right onto the face (while using the chimney when needed), then clip 7 more bolts (12 total) to chains.

A great looking route that is a good route, which will become a great route with a few more sends.(if you get my drift)

Tricky stems at the start to nice mellow climbing the rest of the way.

This off-width soon becomes a chimney and is difficult to protect.  The moves, however, are fairly secure and fun if you like this sort of old school climbing.

An off-width crack inside a chimney.  Not as bad as it looks, though.  Chains at the top.

Sweet little route on bomber rock. Bouldery over the roof to anchor.

A devious and steep face with technical moves and a powerful crux. Pretty to look at...and smart too!

Monkey Business

takes the direct line up the face and follows a faint, thin crack. Good rock, good moves! Pumpy and sustained. Bring some brain power as well, this routes requires a little

monkey business

!

A thin traverse leads to an excellent thin hands crack to the top.

The crack has some good climbing though its a bit flakey in the middle section.

Clipping and moving past the second bolt is the crux.  Fun moves on too short of a route!

Off-width taking at least four #4s and one #5 along with some other miscellaneous cams leading straight up to a ledge where face moves take you right and up past three bolts to chains. The crux seems to be getting into the main crack.

Not the prettiest crack in the Jungle, but one of the best protected and plenty fun. Primarily hands, this crack wavers in size and offers many different options. Follow the crack up and right using a large selection of holds, feet, and jams. Finish at a two-bolt, chain anchor.

While cleaning this line, a few very old, unrecognizable bones were found buried in the crack....ancestors?

Start will small edges and good sidepulls to reach a high first bolt, stemming as needed against a low angle slab covered in gooseberry (or wild rose, one of those thorny fuckers which grow all over the Jungle).

Balance your way around a micro roof and along the edge of a nearly featureless panel of red stone then pull a thugish (or technical, your call) mantle on a narrow ledge. Pull down (not out) to establish in the corner forming the left edge of another immaculate shield, avoiding the left arete which we

purposely

did not clean (makes for an easy escape on shitty rock that would never clean-up, attempt at your own risks). Exit the corner by latching on to some threatening-looking yet solid blocks and mantle on a ledge to clip the anchors from the left (easier) or swing right for a final face sequence on small holds (harder).

Roy had sniffed out this nice pillar a couple minutes from the car and we decided to close the season with it. Filling in the blanks at the Lower Jungle...

Climb 2nd dihedral to the right using large heuco and following corner seam. Traverse right at second to last bolt to corner then up.

Start in a wide, left-facing corner crack, then take a series of three "staircase" edges left past two bolts into a tips crack. Above the tips, juggy, somewhat runout (look closely for good gear, it's there) 5.9 climbing puts you under an overhanging block protected by a bolt. A final splitter crack leads through the roof to the anchors.

This route shares the same start as "Coco's Lichen It" then diverges up and left to chains.

Scramble up shelf and lay back flaring shallow bolted crack to right of yours truly and move to crack to the right that requires cams, .75 to 1.75 inch.

Climb shallow open book to upper face  on tentative jams and edges to occasional jugs. Constantly ever changing climbing.  Crux near the top.

Pull through the crumbly first 10 feet up into the double cracks, featuring a lovely splitter on the left! Stem, jam, and continue up the fluctuating crack through a wide pod and a pinched off section. Once the crack seams out, a creative transfer left gets you to the final 20ft splitter finger crack. Crank through this to the bolted anchor.

This is an excellent face climb between "Pygmy" and "Blue Collar Ape."  Start using the arete and crack passing first bolt to a large ramp.  Being careful, clip the second bolt around the corner where the face climbing begins.  Five bolts total to shunts shared by Blue Collar Ape.

This route is on a triangular-shaped pillar mid-way in the Lower Jungle.  The bolts are right of the arete though the climb may dictate switching from right to left and back across the arete OR hang on (left hand & "thumb") for a wild and slightly more demanding ride completely on the right.

This is a very fun zigzagging route with a scary reach problem at the third bolt.  Otherwise, the climb is made up of mostly 5.7 and 5.8 moves.  Five bolts to shuts.

Start in the corner, then move left to the second bolt. Carry on up the wall and finish left to the Allelopathy Arete anchor.

A nice climb split into 2 sections with a big rest in the middle.

10+ if you step in to the corner then back left.

11a if you go straight.

A decent route to get the fingers going.

Typical Jungle, the crux is at the end.  Clip the last bolt, turn the arete, and traverse left on overhanging rock before moving up and right to the chains.  Fun moves throughout!

Shares start and belay with next climb.  Climb face using big hueco  to arete out left.  Use either belay of previous climb or next climb.

The route starts on a stellar lie-back, 10c then into a gnarley offwidth which leads to a ledge where a short but sweet hands/fingers crack (the crux) that leads to the upper face moves of "The Missing Link." You can place pro or use the last two bolts of "The Missing Link."

Unlike many Jungle lines the crux is not at the start or the end but right in the middle. Though the rest of the moves are all hard there is a height dependent left hand at the crux that may be frustrating for those under 5' 10".

This crack is in an orange lichened, right facing dihedral with the exit as the crux.

Starts a bit flaky but gets better, crux going by second bolt. Pumpy.

Pull some hard moves on 10ft of not so great rock past the first 2 bolts (I would stickclip the 2nd bolt). This leads to a discontinuous crack system which is followed to a small roof. Pull the roof right passing 2 more bolts. Then up a left leaning flake and horizontal to 2 more bolts.

Finish left to same anchor as Shere Khan. Well worth a top rope after you do Shere Khan.

Sustained with miles of good climbing.

Four bolts to chains on a face/arete climb.  This route can be done without the arete but this increases the difficulty.

Climb up a short chossy section (with a mantle over the thorny goosberry) to a ledge.  From there, a nice dihedral with a good crack and plenty of edges on the sidewalls offer varied climbing through a few exciting bulges.  The route ends on a small stance at a two bolt/chain anchor.

Move left to the arete then crank a few moves to below a roof. Pull the roof to a rest, finish up with some tricky moves to the anchor.

Nice climb on good rock.

This is the direct start to "Rudyard Kipling."  Very thin moves gets you clipping the second bolt with no room for error on making this clip!  Then moving left to set your first piece is even more important.

This is a really nice dihedral leading to a roof and finishes at the same anchor as Homo Cragus.  The crux is in the first 8 feet where the face is smooth at your feet.  Fun stemming thereafter. Have fun searching for the hidden bomber hold on the ceiling.

Some tricky back and forth up the arete until you can move right on to the green face. Up this to a ledge, then finish up the last few bolts of Missing Link to the anchor.

Hard bouldery moves up the thin seam lead to a easier finish. Perfect rock.

A short, two bolt face to chains.  Good warm up or beginner climb. The face moves are much harder and you clip with a right hand.  The crack is somewhat interesting and you clip with the left.

Up the finger crack to a few stout moves left into the wide, then anchor. Good rock yet again.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Jungle