This long route is one of the many multi-pitch routes to come in the Planet of the Apes area.

Pitch I (11c): The sport start is the crux but nothing much lets up until you reach the first anchor. Clipping bolts here with QDs except when you exit right out of the grey/white rock and on to the red rock shoulder under the anchors.  Runners needed for this reachy/dino move. Straight up from here to the anchor.

Pitch II (11a):  The trad second pitch is deep in a dihedral and requires some tricky stemming. Mostly BD number ones (4 would be good) gets you stemming out of the dihedral and on to a pillar.  Three  bolts more of face climbing gets you to chains (Same anchor as the end of Nova's Route). You can make a few more moves up here over doable but loose rock and top out only a few meters from the parking area to campsite B and the main down chute to the area.  All-in-all, a fun team effort.

Man Can Be Domesticated

Damned Dirty Apes

I Feel Lonely

Law Giver

To Hell With The Scarecrows

Simian Survival

Dr. Zaius

Nova's Route

"I have always known about man. From the evidence, I believe his wisdom must walk hand and hand with his idiocy.

" Dr. Zaius-

Dr. Zaius

offers great crack climbing up a tough and tricky face. Well protected, this is an awesome, exciting route with plenty of options for gear. Worth its weight in gold, this line would have

a line

anywhere else. Unreal!!

Begin in a steep, hand size crack and work up passing a small roof. Continue on the face, following a crack to a ledge that gains a good rest. Climb the dihedral up to a giant roof.  Pull and traverse the roof then finish left, up a steep varied face, split by a crack. A mighty fine line, lets hope your wisdom overrules your idiocy...

Another mixed route with the crux at the top.  A fun trad start that climbs way better than it looks around two roofs and right onto the face.

"

Does Man...Still Make War against His Brother?

"

A fun and grungy crack with a few nice jams and edges. Great gear and delicate moves, this is a nice warm-up for the area and the first line you encounter at

The Planet of the Apes

. Follow a crack straight up towards the top of the buttress. Break up and right when the crack nears its end. Follow a smaller, thinner crack system right towards the anchor. Surprisingly fun, this is one of the more unique trad lines in the Jungle.

"

Time bends. Space is

...boundless. It squashes a man's ego. I feel....

lonely

. "

The first two-thirds is a pleasant 5.9 cruise. The crux is at the top of this fun, perfect hand-splitter. Once again there is a left hand arête at the top.

A personal favorite, THWTS is a wild and thrilling mixed line up an altering face. Big and small edges, a thin crux, and thoughtful climbing make this a good, rewarding route. Turn around now? or say, "

TO HELL WITH THE SCARECROWS!

"

Follow a thin crack protected by cams. Move up and left towards holds on the arete, clip a bolt, pull the crux, and head up and right to a rest at a hairline crack and small ledge. Protect here with wired stoppers and continue up, passing one more bolt straight up the face. Finish at a chain anchor.

Intimidating from the ground, this is actually a great and well protected climb.

This route climbs the 50 foot pillar about 50 feet to the right of Damned Dirty Apes. Start up the front of the pillar and wrap around to the left side.

PITCH I (9+): This long and sustained line climbs well and has great movement on a left hand arete.  After clipping the third bolt move right into a chimney.  Climb here until clipping the fourth bolt and then it is back to the arete and up.  There are some spots with less than great rock or this would have more stars due to all the fun moves. Finish on a substantial ledge with shuts.

PITCH II (11d): Head left from the anchor at the end of the first pitch on an 8" ledge toward the arete.  Clip the first of six bolts (runners and QDs) and hold on for this wild, wild ride! The moves between the first and second bolts on this pitch are the crux moves.  Find a way around the arete and slightly up as you traverse into a right facing corner.  Jug up onto a large platform atop an attached pillar.  Continue clipping bolts as you move up and left to reach the chains.  You may rap from here with TWO 60 meter ropes or lead on over "lose" rock (15 ft.) to top out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Planet of the Apes