Tricky sequence finishing on slab. Starts where brown and white rock faces meet.

Lazy Anna

Antidote

Toxic Masculinity

Turtles Tail

Twinkle Toes

Spooky

Access Denied

Pygmy

Faith

Klingon

Toxic

Conglomernaut

Cease Fire

Pebble Power

Rodeo Ride

Sloth

Metamorphosis

Shallow Stemming Corner

Turtle Soup

Open Project

V6/7 crux off the ground, start on stacked rocks or hanging on rope. 12a to the top.

10 feet left of Toxic. Long move off the ground to a right crimp. Then some very balancy moves to a set of underclings. Out to a high right crimp. Then dyno to an 1/8 pad ear. Campus to a jug and up to the top.

A tougher version of Klingon. Technical crimpy slabby face climb with small holds. I wanted to give this bolted line a place here. If you have information about it please share, or try it and give suggestions. Beta: crux is between bolt three and four (bolt 1 is the rusty one that is shared with Klingon but you could stick clip the second bolt instead).

Crux is betweent the 2nd and 3rd bolts, very beta intensive and balancy.

Face climb that steps right to the upper section.

First route on the left on the big boulder down from the main cliffline, past Turtle's Tail. Long, crimpy moves. May feel like a 12a.

A nice crack climb that starts out fairly juggy and thins out toward the top; don't let the conglomerate rock shred your hands.

The name says it all; like the other routes in this section, Conglomernaut is ready to shred your hands in its pebbly, conglomerated crack.  The strenuous start is fortunately well protected. 

  Using hand jams and stemming, pull through an overhung, right-leaning crack system; for an easier option, climb the right face on nice fins until you can move left to the crack.  Follow the crack to its end and continue on easier, juggy face climbing (with sparser protection) to the top.

Your first thought as you look up at this seemingly-unprotectable line may be one of awe that someone actually made the first ascent on gear.  Your next thought will probably be something like "let's set up a toprope!"  It's worth noting that a retrobolt of Cease Fire was subsequently chopped. 

  The route follows an obvious shallow right-facing corner for most of its length.  Using crimpy laybacks and whatever holds you can find on the face, balance your way up the corner and then onto the left face about three-quarters of the way up.  Pull a bulge using lichen-covered slopers and crimpers to reach the top.

A great, pumpy lead that will test your willpower!  Juggy holds and horns help to compensate for the lack of any rest stances for placing gear on the steadily overhanging conglomerate wall.  Just keep moving!  You'll want to be really solid at the grade before trying this one.

Climb a corner to a horn, Move to the right and over a roof and finish to the top.

Slab climb with a roof and good headwall.

Pumpy climbing on a pretty, overhanging arete.  Getting off the ground is the hardest part of this excellent climb, so stick-clipping is a good idea. 

  Finesse your way up a thin, pebbly face on the right side of the arete; if this is too much to handle, swallow your pride and stem onto the wall across the corridor from the arete.  Things get easier once you reach an undercling above the first bolt.  Continue up the steep arete to the top.

This obscure route has a different feel from most of Sand Rock, with uniform hard sandstone instead of the more typical pebbly conglomerate.  Too bad it's so short. 

  Use stemming moves and the occasional substantial handhold to climb a right-facing dihedral to the top.

Left side of slab. Boulder moves gets you to horns. Manuver out and over a roof to finish.

Climb 20 feet of 5.10 fluff to a 20 foot section of V9/10.  I bolted it in Feb 2013 and gave this one serious session and can't figure out the sequence.  Maybe someone else can unlock it in the future.

Past Sun Wall, you will come up on a very conglomerated cliff on the left, it will come to an abrupt end. This is Turtle's Tail.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Turtle Rock