This is a good route with a few brief sections to stop and make you think.  The holds are typically good and incut.  The rock is generally clean.

Though the Gillett book never specifically estimates the risk of the flake that the 5th bolt is in coming off, it felt 'overstated' as a risk.  But the consequences, if it did, can not be overstated.  There would be death.  I chose to put in gear just above the 4th bolt and then skip the 5th bolt, where the climbing is not difficult anyway.  The huge flake is not going to move due to simple body weight.  It would be nearly certain to hold even the most brutal lead-fall, but not 100% certain, I did not clip it to risk testing it.

Overall, the route is actually quite good and not dangerous in my opinion, even eschewing the 5th bolt for lower gear.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roadeo