I bolted this one after school one day back when I was a teacher. This route begins with some fun pocket & edge climbing up to a cool stemming dihedral, bust some moves out of the dihedral to the upper corner. Positive laybacking up the corner leads to an airy leftward traverse to the anchors. There are some large blocks and flakes in the corner, they appear solid, but avoid pulling on or stepping on them.

There is an alternate finish that avoids the upper corner by going out left on good face holds up to a bouldery set of crux moves below the anchor on slopers, pinches, and tiny crimps. This left variation is 5.12 and is also quality.

After School

Blond Corner

Analog

Holey Moley

The Groper

Adventures in Chossland

"A View to a Kill"    AKA (One in the Pink)

The Hanging Garden

School's Out!

Happy Finish

Oh Boy, Oh Boy!

Another Unknown 11b

Black Streak

Chia Pet

Right Hand Man

Eye for an "I"

Over-the-Monsoon

The Slab

The Siren

Overlooked

99 Problems

Jay's Newer Route AKA Not Dead Yet

Wiggle Her Pudge Until She Purrs

"Overhauled"

Out of Pocket

Out of Sight

El Burro

Abre Los Ojos

Bits Harder

Jay's Route AKA Deadpoint

Redrum

"Jay's Route" AKA No Problemo

The route is on the left end of the Overlook Cliff, keep walking past

Overlooked

until you come to a prominent looking arete with grey bolt hangers. The route starts in the corner (a little dirty, but it should clean up) then moves out onto the face for a cruxy section with side pulls and tiny feet over a small roof. It is possible to bypass the lower crux by staying in the corner for an easier variation. Easier climbing on dark rock leads to a steep section on light colored rock with some cool pockets. Sustained climbing leads to a crux, then some fun moves out on the arete lead to the anchor.

It is 5.11-, if you avoid the lower crux by staying in the corner to bypass the small roof.

The interesting moves are limited to some stemming down low. Move right onto a slab, and extend the next bolt with a runner. Then continue up easier stone to the chains.

A variation exists where you step left (not right to the slab) and continue on the next bolted line. This has more stained fun moves and goes at 11a.

Climb a gently overhanging, grey prow with sustained small-pocket pulling to a small ledge, then climb past five more bolts on a steep slab. It is a good route.

A hard start leads to good vertical to slightly steep climbing through several cruxes. The crux is several sequential pocket moves. This is a great route that deserves more traffic.

This is a fun, long route on a grey and orange face with tricky cruxes entering and exiting the dihedral. It is the right-most of the three routes in the alcove left of

Analog

.

Climb up through a dirty roof to a giant shit/choss band. It is not as good as the routes on either side.

Climb off the ledge up to a short corner. From there, steep sustained climbing on edges and pocket lead to a cruxy exit onto slabby terrain. Low angle climbing leads to the anchor finishing on the last 3 bolts of "Out of Sight".

This route starts off with some slick and reachy moves, then goes to jugs, and finally to another crux above the roof. Fun route.

Start with some pocket climbing up to a thin, sharp crux move to steep jugs and pockets over a roof to the anchor.

This route is immediately right of "

Out of Pocket

". The name refers to Eiton Green, a fallen friend, who would exclaim "oh boy, oh boy!" any time he or the person he was belaying was about to fall. Most of us will have a few of these moments on this route!

Start in grey rock with some technical climbing up to a ledge rest. Off the ledge is good pocket climbing on lighter colored rock up to a thin section with crimp rails. Finish on good holds.

Start in a dihedral on the right side of the ledge above the fixed line. Do a crux traverse to a right-facing dihedral then to some cool pockets. It is a slightly contrived but fun route nonetheless.

This route is the middle of the three routes off the terrace in the alcove. It follows a pocketed dihedral/arete to wild, geometric bulge, ending with cool moves on a clean slab. This is a fun route that should clean up nicely.

This is a new route that may have some loose rock, so as with many routes here, a helmet and smart belay stances are advised.

This route starts between

Adventures in Chossland

and

Bits Harder

. It shares an anchor with the previous route. Climb a juggy roof to a crux out right, then head back left into an arching dihedral. This is a great warmup for the area.

This has a bouldery crux at the second bolt followed by easier but engaging climbing through a few thin sections to the anchors. It's easy climbing to get to the horizontal break and the first bolt; however, I recommend stick clipping the second bolt (or at least pre-hanging the draw), otherwise clipping the second feels like the crux.

Start on grey rock up to a small ledge. From there, sustained, fun climbing leads to a cruxy move out to the left followed by nice edges to the anchors.

Climb a series of ledges on the far right side of the cliff.

This route is just right of

Overlooked

. Pre-clip the first bolt from bigger holds out right. Then from the ground, climb up and left of the bolt on small crimps to the jug. Then follow great rock to the anchor at the top of the slab.

This route follows an obvious, gold dihedral right of the large roof that

Holey Moley

climbs through. It is a fun route with high friction rock and a few tricky cruxes.

Tricky climbing leads to a 11+ crux through a pocketed bulge, then a crimpy crux headwall awaits above.

Climb powerful moves down low to a fun, chossy finish.

Start up through a short section of red rock up to a ledge, traverse out left up to a steep bulge, and steep crimps lead to another jug. From there, fun climbing on great stone leads to the anchors.

This is the left-most route on the tall, grey wall right of

El Burro

.  Start right of a tree in a dug-out belay stance. It has a steep start to a crux midway up the route. This is a fun and engaging route. A 60m rope just barely makes it so use care when lowering.

This route is one of the best at the grade in the Ouray area. Start out with some powerful pocket climbing to some tricky cruxes and a sustained finish. It is pumpy and fun!

Easy climbing off the ledge leads to an overlap underling. From there, climb shallow pockets to a big move to an edge. From there, steep sustained climbing on pockets and edge follows. It is super sustained until you pull over onto the slabby terrain. This shares the last 3 bolts with "

A View to a Kill

".

Climb a steep, grey, pocketed face to a tricky dihedral section in the middle. Start just right of

The Siren

on a small dirt ledge.

Start on the right side of the ledge. Currently, this is the farthest right route on this part of the wall.  Around the corner are more routes.  The climb begins by following a crack system.  After two bolts, go left under a roof.  Continuing straight up is 10c and is called Birds Eye View. Climb past pockets to moderate terrain.  Another tricky section at the top is encountered by a bonsai pine tree.  The rock on the bottom of the route is a little crumbly at times, but the climbing is super fun, the holds are good, and the position is nice.  The direct start is a bouldery 12c.

This route starts on grey rock, then heads straight up steep juggy holds to the anchors. It is a great warmup.

This is a good warm-up that has cleaned up nicely. Be careful clipping the second bolt. It has black bolt hangers.

This route is on the left side of the "right side" wall. Start on a grey pocketed face, then climb a red-streak through a roof.

This is a good warmup on the left edge of the Guides' Wall. Climb a steep, gray face to a fun crack finish. This route may feel runout for someone leading at their limit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Overlook Cliff