This is the bolted route between

Father Figure

and

Splitting Hares

. The 11c grade is an approximation; it may be easier....

Climb to the first bolt on

Father Figure

, then diagonal right past another bolt into a large, right-facing corner. The difficulties begin at the third bolt where the corner narrows and steepens. Stem precariously up past the fourth and fifth bolts to a small roof. Clip the bolt over the roof and crank it on mediocre hands (crux). Make another dicey move to pull into balance below the final slab. After clipping the last bolt, one or two moves in a finger crack lead to the anchors. Lower 40'.

Although the climbing from the third bolt to the anchors is sustained, the bolts are only 3'-5' apart.

Shady Deal

Centennial

Father Figure

Just Like Nebraska

Dry Run

Bowling Block

Bowling Block Right

Curb Service

A Tall Cool One

Splitting Hares

Hareless In Boulder

Happy Ending

Splitz

Zee Eliminator

Donnybrook

On the far rightside of the Bowling Alley almost near the road is a cluster of four routes near a large ponderosa tree. This route climbs the blunt-arete on fairly good holds past several bolts. Clip the first bolt (black hanger) and step up and left to the second bolt. Tend right back towards the arete to a testy moves past the third and fourth bolts. Reach a good flake and make a strenuous move over a small bulge and reach a good rest. Head up and right to a good ledge and power up past the last two bolts to the anchor. Good climb!

This route starts on the far right side of the Bowling Alley 50 feet from the highway. Just left of a four-bolt route is a nice clean face with a two-bolt anchor (unfinished route) 50 feet off the ground. Start on the right side of the face and climb up blocky rock to the first bolt. Climb on good holds up to the third bolt. Tend right and make a series of hard laybacking moves (crux) up a steep face to a large ledge.Reach the ledge and climb up to a bolt on a steep face. Make a hard move past the bolt and reach a slanting crack. Crank up the crack tending left to a exposed moves on the arete. Crank up past the short corner to the belay. The route will clean-up with more ascents and should see a fair amount of traffic being so close to the road. A 200 foot rope just makes it to the ground.

This route is located on the far rightside of the Bowling Alley a 150 feet up and right from the large ponderosa tree near the road. Hike up the short gully and look for a line of bolts shooting up a slab to a roof. This is the route. Climb up past the first two bolts and reach a good ledge. Climb past three bolts on a clean slab (cool slab moves) and crank up through a left-facing corner. Make a hard move over the small overhang (crux) and climb up the nice face to the anchor. This is a good route that climbs a lot better than it looks! A nice addition to the cliff and a great place for a late afternoon workout!

This is the second route listed in Greg Hand's comment on

Centennial

. It is the first bolted route on the left of Lower Bowling Alley.

It is a short, sustained route for a 5.9. It climbs the vertical wall with good but "not quite in the right place" holds. Be careful clipping the first bolt.

There are rings at the top.

Reach up to left hand layback edge and gain right-hand arete then to top and mantle.

Sit start, power stand, and head right along the roof feature. Gain the small notch, and top out. This uses sustained power and tension climbing. It is a cool problem if you're in the neighborhood.

This is a idiosyncratic, litttle, roadside route of a few years back.  You can almost belay from your bumper.  It lies 8 miles uphill from Elephant Rocks, per Rossiter's guide, on the North side of the road.  A small 35-40 foot face which now sports 2 lines.

It started with a wire or small cam to protect an opening slippery crux.  Now it is protected by the 1st bolt of the neighboring route.  Once you are situated with your left foot on the starting block, you can move delicately left to clip the 1st original bolt (harder) or move up and left and reach far down to clip the 1st original bolt (longer).  Long reaches and balance out left to reach a sidepull and clip the second bolt.  Then move out left to the arete and up the easier slab around the left.  Now there is a 2-bolt anchor to lower from instead of the rap sling of past times.

The neighboring, more modern, more sustained, 4-bolt line (

Curb Service

) can go at a wandering 10a as you weave holds right and then left of the bolted directissima line.

Curb Service is on a diamond-shaped rock about 75' right of Centennial.  There is a parking pullout just below the rock, about 75 yards before you get to Practice Rock.  Approach time from the car is less than a minute.

The route follows 4 bolts up the left-center of the rock to the R of

Fin

.

Power past an overhang by the first bolt (10a), then continue on easier climbing to the second bolt.  Don't fall before the second clip or you'll hit the ground.  More thin face moves lead to the third bolt.  You can finish the climb at 5.9 by moving left toward the arete, climbing up, then back right at the top, or at 5.10d by climbing straight up just left of the third and fourth bolts.

Fun moves, but a few runouts to keep you on your toes.

Located between

Splitting Hares

and

Centennial

is this entertaining 9 bolt sport climb.  The 12a grade is a tad soft, but not completely out of the question, especially on the onsight.

Centennial

seemed to have a harder crux move, but A Tall Cool One is more continuous, and a more enjoyable route.

This route is located on the far right-side of the Bowling Alley, just right of a large, ponderosa tree fifty feet from the road. Climb up past two bolts and place gear in a thin crack. Make a dicey move left and clip a bolt in a small corner. Make some hard moves past the bolt and gain a good ledge. Fire up a short crack and reach a large ledge. Clip a bolt and make some cool face moves up to the anchor.

This is a decent route on the left side of the lower Bowling Alley roadside section.  It has an awkward crux that is suddenly perplexing, but it eases quickly.

Start with a stem off a tiny pinnacle on the left and get onto the crack.  Two moves up and you're suddenly trying to figure out how to get into a rest position, which is challenging.  A lieback and quick step up and you get jugs, easier terrain, and regaining of your equilibrium.  Pull onto the slab.  You can move right and downclimb to the 2 bolt anchor to rappel or scramble off to the left.

This is the third route in Greg Hand's comment on

Centennial

.

This is the second bolted route from the left on Lower Bowling Alley.

Climb past five bolts on the face between "

Dry Run

" and

Father Figure

to a ledge. 9-. Once on the ledge climb past two bolts with the crux getting to the anchors.

Fixe rap rings at the top.

Climb the obtuse dihedral between

A Tall Cool One

and

Centennial

. Start up

Centennial

to access the dihedral and climb it to its top where it finishes on the last few moves of

A Tall Cool One

.

Lieback up finger crack in a large, left-facing dihedral and work left through roof (crux). Take hand crack straight up to ledge. Finish straight up on 5.8 face/thin crack terrain. Walk off. There is a flake in the hand crack after the roof, but it is not to big and is easily avoidable.

This route is strangely bolted; there's a bolted belay at the base (why?), then 3 very close bolts straddling the opening arete, then more normally bolted (with maybe a little runout, but nothing unusual to my eye). Climbing the opening arete had a challenging move for me, I gave it 11- but could see up to solid 11. It is possibly much easier for taller climbers. Other than the opening arete, the climbing is probably 5.9 or easy 10. Be very careful of loose blocks to the left of the route. Given the strange bolting, proximity to loose blocks, and inconsistent difficulty, the route likely deserves a bomb, but the actual climbing is OK.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Right Side