In the corner/crack/open book left of Clown School, climb to the 4" horizontal, then pull the bulge above (crux) aiming for a flared jam.  Get some gear in the face above and either head for the bushes, or the Clown School Anchor.

The Faster

The Contortionist

Stealin' a Lion

Ly'n and Stealin'

Unnamed, 5.11a

Overboard

Clown School

Light at the End of the Tunnel

No prey, no pay 5.11b

Unnamed, 5.11a  2

Trapezius

High Wire Act

This is probably one of the lower quality lines on this wall, and it's still really good!  It starts out steep and juggy and finishes steep and techy.  Stick clip the first bolt and traverse out left.  Trend back up and right aiming for the arete.  At the 3rd bolt, getting a stance to clip it is the crux.   From here, follow the arete to a great rest and gain the slightly overhanging face at the 5th bolt.   Use small holds to head up and a bit left and then back a bit right to top it out (redpoint crux).   It's a long way to the anchors from the last bolt, but the hardest moves are well protected.  There's a hidden really good hold up there, but you have to find it!

A great route on perfect rock.

Start on the first two bolts of Ly'n and Stealin' then follow the right bolt line. Follow good holds using varied body positioning through the crack sequence to a jug. One long reach leads the sloping ledge with better holds above.

Rest up on the ledge and get ready for a long crux sequence. It's tricky to figure out, but a good sequence leads past a couple good holds, then good slopers, small pockets, desperate slopers (may be condition dependent), and finally a reach to a jug on the ledge, where you can finally clip the last bolt on the face. Mantle the ledge, and finish the route on the same holds and final bolt as Ly'n and Stealin'. The two routes share anchors.

This route climbs impeccable stone, very similar to that of the Travisty wall at Beauty Mountain.  The rock is sparsely featured, with some major vertical and horizontal breaks cleaving through the surface.  Be prepared to pull some deep lock offs on small crimps and pockets to get from one horizontal ledge to the next.  Expect really good rests split by hard technical face climbing.  If face climbing is your forte you'll be well prepared for this route, but you'll still have to pull out the guns for the first two bolts of horizontal roof climbing.

Stick clip the first and second bolts appropriately so the climber doesn't deck if they fall on the intro roof section.

Start at the base of an arete.   Climb up the arete to reach a stance at a bulge.  From here, trend a bit right and make a reach to a great hold (crux).  Nothing but jugs from here to the finish.  This short route has some great moves, although some of the rock on the right side of the arete is a bit friable.  This route would likely improve and perhaps gain another star if it was climbed more.

This route has the potential to be a great sport line, but I suspect something has broken around the 6th bolt.   Start by climbing up the gray face to gain a flake out left.   From the flake head up and right, aiming for the overhang.   Pull the overhang and make a pumpy clip.  From here, it's certainly not 5.11b.  Many dirty thin holds with a big move to a big jug.

Climb up the rippled face to the overhang.   At the overhang, head up and left aiming for a nice chickenhead.    From here, climb straight up to the shuts.   The last moves before reaching the shuts are very sloppy.   Really cool route for the grade.

This route climbs flake system of the right side wall of the tunnel. Bolt anchor in the chimney at the exit.

The start of this route is on a rock stack with a pretty good crimp and left foot. It is committing getting to the first bolt but the fall is on dirt so its not that bad. Not sure who bolted this route but its not in the guide book or up here. I lead it and I think the crux is getting past the second bolt, so it is well protected. Depending on the height of the climber it can make the climb significantly easier, I am 5'8" and would give it a 11a/b grade.

This is an excellent route, although the 5.11a rating may be a bit stiff if you're shorter.   Climb up to the top of an easy pillar to clip the first bolt.   From here, head up the arete, aiming for the nice horizontal at the base of an overhang.   Clip the 3rd bolt and dyno or make a very long reach up and right to a good slot, gain a stance and clip the 4th bolt.   From here, trend up and right on really positive plated holds to the shuts.   This route would surely be very popular if in a different area.

Start on the corner of rock right of the cave climb up to the first ledge. Clipping the 3rd bolt can be tricky as the sequence past the bolt involves 2 big moves that leave the bolt out-of-sequence. Mantle the ledge with a sidepull, and make long reach to the next ledge. Mantle again and rest up for the crux sequence.

The final headwall has an awesome sequence of climbing between mostly good holds. Several long reaches from underclings or sidepulls are broken up by an OK mid-way rest on good holds, but somewhat slabby feet. Getting the sequence right onsight without pumping out would be tricky for the grade.

Great route on rock with good friction and fun moves. Without the three awesome rests it would be a 4 start route. However the sit down ledge half way up detracts from the line.

Good fun climbing that pulls into a heart breaking final move to the chains and a few thin sections through out the faces.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Circus Wall