Aunt Fanny's Pantry

Church Bowl Chimney

700 Club

Bitches' Terror

Uncle Fanny

Black is Brown

Book of Revelation

Shomer Shabbat

Parkay Squeeze

Energizer

Unknown

Haley's Little Warm-up

No Rest For The Wicked

Revival

Oral Roberts

Pole Position

Walk On the Water

Deja Thorus

Jacob's Ladder

Lacerated Sky

Church Bowl Tree

Tammy Fae

Bishops Terrace

Church Bowl Terrace

Church Bowl Lieback

I don't feel that this climb is R-rated.  Its a little heads up at the bottom exiting the crux .10c reach from the top pin scar to the sloper on the ledge.  But once you get the first bolt it is well protected the rest of the way.  You have to hug the rock not to touch the tree, and I think some dime edges past the 4th bolt are no longer there.  (Going past bolt 4 is definitely the new crux.)  The roof has an amazingly good crack running through it and takes great pro.  An excellent finger crack takes you to the ledge at the top.  I think this climb is just as good as Revival!

This follows the obvious chimney to the right of "Church Bowl Tree".

Make slippery moves into the main chimney. Exciting climbing leads up this chimney to The Church Bowl Terrace.

Rappel off.

To the far right in Church Bowl Area past Bishop's Terrace a ways down a slope on a separate buttress. To the right of Oral Roberts (5.12a). A bit runout at the end. Crimpy and balancey.

This is a well protected Shipley & Kohl route.  It can be accessed by climbing Bishop's Terrace halfway before traversing left to the belay ledge which is the start of the route.  Another option is to climb Bishop's Terrace to the top of pitch one and rappel to the base of the route.

Clip bolts and pull on enjoyable edges.  The crux move is just above the 7th bolt, and a wild .10d section  under a roof finishes this climb off with excitement.  Definitely worth the trip back to Churchbowl!

Follow the low-angle chimney to the left of "Church Bowl Lieback". Continue up 5.7 at the chimney's end.

This is a good route for learning basic chimney technique.

Rappel.

A 5.7 lieback leads to 5.8 hands (5.9 actually seems more on). After a scary step right, continue up to a ledge.

This is the right leaning crack, that is 40' left of Church Bowl Tree.  Crux is pulling a blocky bulge 12' off the ground, and getting established in the crack on awkward tight hands with poor feet.  Continue up the crack, which gets easier.  You'll get to an old fixed pin, which is easily backed up, then you get a fun and thrilling airy traverse right, great feet on a dike, but no hands.  balancy!  At the end of the traverse, you'll hit a vertical crack with great fingerlocks in pin scars, then a final easy traverse right to a small slung tree.  Rap off.

This route continues up a few more pitches at a guidebook .11a, but I haven't done them.

This is a late addition to the Church Bowl area.  To the right of Aunt Fanny's Pantry, climb the left of the two cracks up to a small ledge.  From the ledge, a thin crack can be seen off to the right.  Plug in a small cam here and begin traversing this crack as it shoots diagonally up and to the right.  Foot holds appear and offer rests before reaching the top of Jacob's Ladder.  From here an excellent flared, offwidth flake is liebacked to a set of chains.  Rap here with one rope to the ground or step into the gully and climb Aunt Fanny's Pantry to the top of the pinnacle.

This is not an actual climb, but it is a fun little adventure.

Start at "Church Bowl Chimney". Make the entry moves, then continue through the slot and down-climb the very tight chimney to the start of "Church Bowl Terrace".

There are no easy sections on the Energizer, it just keeps going, and going... going into the tree about halfway up makes it easier, slightly easier climbing to the anchor.  Stellar and sustained.

A short and wide crack on a large boulder/pillar with a chockstone halfway up and new shiny anchors with rap rings.

It is an easy climb, maybe not the best for a beginning leader without wide gear.

Around the corner and to the left of "Black is Brown".

Climb a corner, starting on the left side of a chimney. A steep thin section, past a bolt is the crux. At the corner's top climb face past three bolts.

Located directly above the 700 Club buttress. Follow the base of Churchbowl all the way uphill to the right. Look for the right-trending crack system with bolts. The first 40ft are easy and protected with gear. The upper half is bolted pumpy liebacking with the crux at the top. Lead bolts are good, but the anchor could use an update.

Climb the crack right of "Pole Position" to a bulge. Pull the bulge via shallow finger jams. Spooky face moves lead to a ledge.

Rappel.

Bolted line to the left on a separate toe of rock on the far east end of the crag, past Bishop's Terrace.

A fun, bolted face climb, right of "Church Bowl Lieback".

A fall near the second bolt will make one understand the name of this climb.

Bring long slings to set up an anchor at the trees after topping out.

Crossing the water streak just above the lip of the roof followed by a big reach to the first ledge is the crux.  A little run out at the top but the difficulty eases up.

This climb starts just below and right of where a broken tree touches the wall. It's between Aunt Fanny's Pantry and Book of Revelations. It doesn't get climbed much so there's lots of lichen on the first 40 feet.

Climb up to the first bolt and then make a reachy move (5.10) to gain a hueco. From the hueco clip a second bolt and then climb up and left. This section is the crux and I couldn't figure out how to do it without using the tree. After the tree climb up a nice low angle face that's mostly 5.7-5.9, past a couple more bolts. Finish up the right side of a flake to a bolted anchor with chains.

Climbs face up to cool chockstone. Chimney over the roof and around the outside of the chockstone, then climb more moderate terrain to an anchor up and left.

A bit reachy for shorter folk at the second bolt due to width of chimney and roof feature.

The technnical crux is down low (getting of the ground) in a polished groove.  Nice finger jamming follows with a balancy sequence to gain the bolt belay.

There is a second pitch but this isn't often done.

From Church Bowl Tree, follow a trail along the base of the wall past a couple recently fallen trees for about 200' to a large flat area at the base of the climb. Trees obscure most of the route from the ground.  (The pitch is a full 170' - so be sure and bring a 60m rope).  Moderate crack climbing leads to a difficult wider section above.  Both cracks can be used to lessen the difficulties at the crux.  Easily the best one-pitch 5.8 crack in the Valley.  (Rap from the bolt station with a 60m and a 50m tag line).

Climb the flared chimney, around the corner to the right of "Church Bowl Chimney", to the terrace.

Rappel off.

follows low angle thin crack to the right of Uncle Fanny. Some 4th class to get to start. Lieback the whole way. Gets real thin in spots. Easily lead with just a set of nuts. Hold them up and it will suck one in almost anywhere.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in G. Church Bowl