Public Enemy DS

Solicitor

No More Crucifixions

Fountain of Youth

Execution

Public Youth

Public Crucifixion

Public Enemy

Love Your Inclinations

Sweet Inclinations

Sonic Youth

Sweet Inspirations

La Mega Positive

Unknown at New River

Know Your Inclinations

Public Inclinations DS

Enjoy Your Youth

Love Your Enemies

No More Inclinations

Public Execution

Crucifixtion

Kinky Reggae

Know Your Enemies

Ali Natural

Good Vibrations

Sonic Vibrations

Beta Test

Public Inclinations

No More Enemies

Positive Vibrations

Merlin

Kinky Reggae DS

Master Beta

No More Enemies DS

Dragonslayer

Climb straight up the right side of the wall using one old drilled pocket.

This is also known as

Love Your Enemies

extension. It is not the best 5.12+ in the canyon, but it could be popular due to the lack of climbs of a similar grade on the wall. Upon reaching the end of

Love Your Enemies

(skip the chain anchor here), bust a hard left under the large roof, and make a reachy crux sequence to get to the jugs near the ending of

Execution

. Finish on the ledge as for that route. Essentially this line horizontally parallels

Execution

about 7 feet higher. Though it is quite inconsistent, and boils down to a difficult iron cross move after climbing a 12a, it’s got good rock and position, and I thought it bordered on 3 stars.

Side note: I talked to Brian Kimball about this rig, and he said he bolted it but never sent. I had to clean some dirt and flaky rock, but due to the convenience of the line and the easily-reachable bolts, I wouldn’t be surprised if this has been done. Please let me know if the route has already been sent, and I’ll change the name and FA.

Climb

Kinky Reggae

, then climb right at the horizontal seam crux of

Sweet Inspirations

, then climb over the

Inclinations

Roof, then climb left along the horizontal seam and finish as for

Execution

.

Follow the overhanging arete and finish on the

Sonic Youth

anchors.

This is a totally natural line, it has really unique fun movement, and it has a hard bouldery and exposed high crux. Start up

Love Your Enemies

, then bust straight left along the horizontal seem through the tan streaks to the arete then climb straight up to a mini-ledge and newer anchor up and right of

Sonic's

anchor.

Climb

Public

to the seam then left into

Sonic's

final crux and anchor.

Climb

Public Enemy

to the jug rail where it intersects with

Crucifixion

then finish

Crucifixion

/

Execution

.

Climb

Enjoy Your Youth

, but go straight up over the triangle Inclinations roof and finish on

Public Enemy

.

Climb

Sweet Inspirations

to the dinner plate jug just after the traverse crux. Do not clip the short draw at the end of the traverse. Instead, go straight up over the Inclinations roof and finish on

Public

. This slightly harder more direct variation is better all around than

Sweet Inspirations

.

This is one of Clear Creek's best climbs.  The route ascends the steep ceiling and finishes with an awesome, overhung dihedral.  The route used to be rated 12d, so maybe the correct rating is 12d/13a.  Either way this route will challenge you.  The initial moves are powerful, but solid, while the final crux requires endurance and good body tension. There are some classic moves on the route that will leave you smiling. A couple moderate rests can be found to help with the redpoint effort. It is highly recommended.

Climb

Sonic Youth

to the horizontal seam, then traverse right and finish on

Public Enemy

.

Climb

Sonic Youth

to the first stem rest jug over the first roof. Then bust a 10 move V10/11? boulder problem straight right around the blunt arete to the big jug in the middle of the overhanging face. From here, head straight right as for

Positive Vibrations

into the

Public Enemy

crux and finish.

This route is on a separate outcropping upstream from the New River Wall.  Follow the approach for Highlander and New River Wall for about 100 yards.  As the trail hits a small flat area and heads up left, look down and right to find an outcropping with 2 bolts at the lip and a third as backup about 10 feet from the lip.

Figure out how to get down. I set up a rappel at the anchors with the single bolt as backup and rappelled about 50 feet down and right to the lower anchors (on a sloping shelf just off the water). Watch the ends of your rope or coil them and feed as you rappel to keep your rope dry! Another possibility would be to rappel off a separate line, setup to stay out of the river.

Follow 3 bolts up and left over relatively easy terrain. Crank up and over a small roof (crux - 1 more bolt) and head for the anchors. This is a fun route with great position right off the river. It's just too short.

Start the same as for

Know Your Enemies

, but after the MONSTER DYNO, climb straight up the wall over the

Inclinations

roof finishing on

Public Enemy

.

This is

Public Inclinations'

direct start.

Start up

Love Your Enemies

to the horizontal seam/rail, then traverse all the way left and finish on

Sonic Youth

.

Climb 3 bolts up the slab, then traverse left and upward to join and finish on

Public Enemy

.

Start

No More Enemies

, but go straight up over the Inclinations triangle roof from the dinner plate jug, and finish on

Public Enemy

.

Climb

Public Enemy

, then bust straight left along the horizontal seem through the tan streaks. Do same crux and finish as "

Execution

."

Climb up

Love Your Inclinations

to the horizontal seam over the triangle (

Inclinations

roof), then bust straight left through the tan streaks.  Do the same crux finish as for (

Execution

5.13d?). It definitely helped reduce any mild form of rope drag by adding a 2' long sling to the short draw right before you head over the

Inclinations

roof.

Start on

Public Enemy

, then traverse up and left through the two old drilled pockets, cross over the boulder problem, and finish on

Sonic Youth

.

Climb

Kinky Reggae

to the big hold in the middle of the wall, but instead of doing the pocket crossover, switch your hands (right hand gaston pocket left hand two finger pocket). Then DYNO-HUCK to the big, dinner plate jug at the end of the

Sweet Inspirations

traverse, and finish up the path of least resistance

Public Enemy

.

Start on

Public

and finish on

Sonic Youth

without using the two old drilled pockets staying a few feet lower.

This is possibly my favorite of the Vibrations lines. Climb as for

Sonic Vibrations

, but go right at the seam under the roof doing the

Sweet Inspirations

crux and finish. All of these routes have very nice flow and movement this one is right up there with

Positive Vibrations

in quality and difficulty :o)

Stick clip the new bolt in the roof just right of

Sonic

, and climb the first 4 bolts of

Sonic

. From here, bust right, then straight up to the jug rest. From here, finish like you would for

Kinky Reggae

doing the pocket crossover back into

Sonic's

final rest and anchor.

This is a spooky warm-up for "

Sonic Youth

", running up the middle of the wall to the left.  Scramble up the ramp until bolts lead up overhanging rock onto the wall.  The crux comes quickly, with fingery layaways with sketchy feet past the second clip.  The spook factor comes from having to climb until your feet are above the bolt before it eases and you snag the third clip.  It feels quite possible to skate off while balancing for the clip.  The upper half is an easy hike to the anchors.

Climb

Public Enemy

to the jug rail, then climb left a few feet clipping the short draw, go straight up out the triangle roof from the dinner plate jug then finish on

Public Enemy

.

Kinky Reggae

+

Sweet Inspirations

= slightly harder than

Kinky Reggae

.

Start just like

Sonic Vibrations

, but go right from the shake out jug into

Public Enemy's

crux and anchor.

This route is on a small rock along the approach to New River Wall, namely the short (~45 foot) rock just above the river after the Tyrolean just prior to New River Wall.  Ascends the left side of the rock. The first few moves are very juggy and fun, then attacks the tricky crux in the crack before attaining good underclings at a small overlap. Pull above this to a large corner , clip and make a couple more juggy moves left to the chains.  Fun but short (1.5 stars).  Decent route to get the blood flowing a little before hopping on

Sonic Youth

.

This is the rarely repeated extension to "

Beta Test

".  The line is obvious - a worthless seam across a horizontal 8' roof.  After clipping a bolt out in the middle of the roof and rigging slings to keep down the rope drag, a wild move launches you to a handlebar jug on the lip.  Hook your heel by your hand to let go and clip the bolt just over the lip, then mantle on up to the anchors above.  Failure will leave you dangling in space with no easy way to get back on the rock.  Success means you're definitely a "Master" of rock.  Cleaning the route is a pain, but most folks don't even get as far as the lip, so it isn't a problem.  A unique adventure, and one of biggest horizontal roof tests in the canyon.

This is the

No More Enemies Direct Start

, which is

Kinky Reggae

+

Sweet Inspirations

= slightly harder than

Kinky Reggae

.

This short bouldery route starts on the right side of the wall. Fight through a crux sequence of small crimps and a fun sloper just after the first bolt, up to a crimp below the second bolt. Pull up and gain a jug to clip and chalk up. Another short boulder problem awaits getting to the 3rd bolt and a rest jug under the roof. (Be careful of a sizeable chunk underneath the roof with an "x" on it... I tried to pull it out, but it didn't budge, but still be aware...) Finally, fun and easy climbing takes you over the roof with a long reach, and then up left to the anchors.

Description

Protection

Routes in The New River Wall