Prompted by Andy Bennett he and I tried the big roofs you can see from San Pedro Vista. We could not get over them.  We then moved left and found a gem.  70M rope required.  A bit Fuzzy until you reach the middle of the climb but the climbing is easy and the slightly fuzzy nature keeps you focused.  The second half of the climb is where the money is.  At the end of the low angle stuff bolts lead you to some exposed steep crack climbing with bomber pro and an airy finish.  A rare treat this low on the mountain.

Radical Mystery Tour

Stem Cell

Prowler

Swinging from the Upper Limbs

Out on a Limb

Branching Out/Lipshitz 5.9 to 5.11-

Rack Your Brain

Treehugger's Mojo

Corination

Poached Grins on Toast

Red Wood

Tree Top Flyer

Burning Down the Malls

SQII says "awkward moves" lead to a "stunning crack". The scenery below this climb may be stunning, but the crack will probably disappoint you. Expect finicky Lemmon gear and difficult face climbing instead of slammer cams and jams. It might feel sandbagged for 5.11. The awkward moves might feel desperate as well... 

  Carefully tiptoe your way beyond "For Pete's Sake" (5.12-) on the east face of Mojo Wall, out onto a slab ledge that rests under a squat roof. You can see a single bolt and, if you're lucky, some tat waving in the wind around the corner (the tat is attached to your first bolt). Tie the belayer in to the visible bolt (easier if the belayer extends down to the little ledge below).  

  Reach around, clip the bolt, and get ready to pull. Clip a second bolt and make your way to the crack, which will take you almost all the way to the top of the formation. Where it ends, hike lichen to the top and trend left to find "For Pete's Sake's" anchors to bring up your follower.

This route has a split personality. It is really a direct trad start to Out On A Limb and a mostly bolted variation finish.  It is long, the pro is good and you get all you need on the first trad half.  The second half continues up a left angling crack/rail to sloping ledges and eventually climbs between two corners that face each other.  It takes a little gear in one spot but the rest of the second half is bolted.  The climbing is varied and includes a short section of really cool stemming and an arete finish.  Clip the anchor and continue to the ledge if you want to do Lipshitz.

Two distinct and difficult cruxes that will make wish you did more bouldering.  Big rest before the last crux takes a star away but I am glad it was there.

Follow bolt line up and over a big diagonal crack 30' left of Treehuggers' Mojo. Continue up the engaging face to a 'biner-anchor.

Fun move at bolt then some fun but not too hard climbing up a plated face.  Finishes on any of the branching out finishes.

This is a two pitch route with lots of options up the NE face of Branching Out Crag. The views of the San Pedro Valley are great. From the left side of the ledge, head up and right to the first bolt (has old bail slings visible).  Clip the second and place good gear, then head up the corner above.  Either continue past a loose, scaly, steep section (5.9 sandbag) or do a cool hand traverse left to the arete and climb fun moderate plates to an old two bolt anchor.  The latter will require one of three things: (1) running out the arete; (2) double ropes; or (3) devising a more direct path to the arete from lower down.  Aside from this annoyance, the climbing is fun on this pitch. 

  Above are four options: (1) rightmost is a wide 5.9 crack above an obvious tree; (2) 2nd from right is a thin hands crack over a roof which was filled with birds and their excrement [edit: after climbing this route for a second time, you can start up the 5.9 but above the tree, do a cool traverse from the wide crack to the really nice hand crack on the left, above all the birds and their shit. About 5.9 or maybe 9+ for the traverse];(3) 3rd from right is a thin seam with an old piton, 5.11.  We opted for (4), "Lipshitz."  Head up the ramp to the left and around a corner to find a cool overhanging corner crack (optional belay at the base of the crack).  Climb it (felt like at least 5.11-) to a fun, run out plate section and the top of the rock. 

Long route.  Leave your gear near the top as you can't lower off.  Looks easier than it is and the first moves are a tad reachy.  This long and winding route is fun because it climbs features.  Good pro where you need it. Be sure and bring a number of shoulder length slings.

Getting to the crack system is hard.  Getting pro is a little awkward but it is bomber.

Bottom is the perfect warm-up to this area (very easy on the fingers with some full body movement). Rating is based on crux at the top. 

  Bit of sneaky start to first bolt. 2nd bolt is easy to miss, as it is a chunky scramble to the 3rd bolt. Head toward the right of the tree and follow the diagonal flake/crack to a horizontal crack, which is the intro to the crux sequence. Top is balanced face climbing.

Cool moves low and an interesting set of moves through the 6 foot tiered roof.

Moderate start leads to a big move right that will be tough with short arms.  Three hard sections if you have short arms or two if you don't all with a rest before you have to go for it.  Good rock and a nice finish.

Slopers, ramps, and roofs and a fun moderate section too.  These guys have only set a few new routes and they know how to pick them.  This is a really fun climb with a hard crux.

Just 3 minutes from San Pedro Vista means the occasional visitor on the trail above as well as people watching you from the overlook if you are on a route visible from the overlook.  Not very user friendly as these rocks protrude from a very steep hillside.  If your water bottle gets started you may never see it again.  Like Sky Valley only worse.  You also might have to hike up the hill to get to the other side as going down and around is a real pain in the butt.  Good rock with three sides that face North, South and West.  Steep rock tends to be free of lichen but the lower angle stuff can be fuzzy on the north and west sides.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mojo Wall and Branching Out Crag