It's on the same face as Fat Albert. Start left hand on arete, Right hand side pull crimp. Find some feet and have fun.

Spread em

Cruiser

Mono Move

Jack's Slab

Blotter is my Spotter

Boone's Bane

Christopher Reeve

A Tiger's Bulge

Tight Shirts Face

Professor Maisch

Double Dyno

Cronin's Move (AKA The Lollipop Problem)

Dean Problem - Arete

Middle Earth

Baggins Right, Left Exit

Fungus

Baggins Right, Early Exit

Circus Freak

Fat Albert Face

Shrimps

Snake Pliskin

Wormhole Left

Fat Albert Gang

Dean Problem

Tom's Problem

Worm Churns

Tiger Snake

Tiger Snake Venom

The Monolith

Baggins, Left Exit

Salad

Fire Exit

Cracker

Cronin's Slab

Ugly Crack

A Bit Slopey

Garden Snake

Baggins

This beautiful line (thanks to quarrying) is a great lesson in pure arete liebacking.  Core tension down low is the key, especially moving past the crux.  Fun topout.  A sit start adds a move, but the grade's the same.

Start on low, huge rail and move straight up.

From BB: Start sitting on crimpers on the right side of the small corridor. Head up to a left slanting rail, then straight up to flat jug. Head up and right to a hidden mono, then mantle.

Climb the south face without using the arete.  Classic.

Sit start on Boone's Bane. Go left around the bulge and up.

First move might be a little scrunchy for the tall folks, but after that it's really fun.

Super fun technical mantel!

Start on edges below lip of boulder, pull to lip on slopers, then mantel into the scoop using a heel.

I did this with hands on left side, but it's done the other way as well.

From BB: Start on crimps and pull hard for the top.

Sit start : V6

I guess if you've hit all the other classics in cabbage patch and are bored, you can do this one...

Start on Rail up and rt of the starting holds for TSV. Make a long -ish reach for a sloper and then use small crimps toclimb the short slab above

On the Brake boulder. I started with my right hand on the undercling and my left hand on a nice crimp a little to the left and up. Find a small piece of granite to stick your right toe on and then lift your left foot up to a rather nice edge. Finish it up and then just walk down the back. I thought it was a fun short problem.

There's also a traverse problem starting at the jugs on the low left that goes along the arete to top out at the point.

a.k.a.  Dan's Problem

A great problem that will leave you wanting more, or screaming because you left your skin on top.  Start low matching on obvious horn, move left up to next obvious jug.  Commit and make the long throw up to the huge sloping shelf.  Harder if you throw both hands.

The one comes down to fit. If you are

tall

and

are

ok with a mono

, this is super fun and V-easy. If you

are not

tall

and/or

are

not

ok with a mono

, this isn't going to work out for you.

Arete on southwest corner of the large drilled boulder.  Use the drill holes on the face of the boulder  as single finger holds, along with the drill holes on the arete.  Be prepared for some lie-backs  .

Start sitting in the cave opposite baggins and head up and then right

see

vimeo.com/165603313

SDS on the right side of the cave on a low left hand crimp and a right hand side-pull crimp. Make 2-3 fun moves to the jug then traverse left ending on "Shrimps".

The LCC guide has this at V10 starting on the jug, but according to Mike Beck the original line starts sitting on low crimps. While the low start doesn't change the grade, it adds 2-3 fun moves that are worth doing. So not sure why anyone would decide to cut those moves out.

Fun route to get on after warming up on the other problems in the area.

Climb up the arete to the right of Fat Albert, topping out with some technical sloper work.

The first few moves seem just a tad bit harder for shorter folk, as the starting foot will probably be too far down to reach the sidepull.

Start on the far right side of the cave, move up and traverse left on slopers to a small crimp, top out between the two boulders (don't dab!)

Start in the horizontal crack just to the right of Double Dyno, and head upward. The guidebook says to climb into the left-angling crack and top out.

It's kind of cool heading up the Michelin Man fat rolls, reaching deep into the adipose tissue to pull yourself up.

Long reach from  a decent crimpy left hand at chest height to a distant RH crimp.

Start on jugs, move into the jug crimp on the V10 Baggins variation and top out the same. The throw to the top is a little sketchy since swinging off could result in a gnarly tumble down the slab

From the Black Bible, description is vague, I found what felt like a V4 start using right hand in a crimp crack about 6ft up, and left hand in a small opening a little further up the crack. Climb the face using the interesting greenish dike feature to the top. Pretty gritty in parts.

Oh yeah, the good stuff.

Start on Shrimps, then traverse right, reversing the Baggins Left Exit. Once at the back of the cave on jugs, continue through the WORMHOLE! in the roof. It's a tight squeeze to finish!

Pull through three drilled monos and huck for the top. Possibly the best chipped route in the world. Arete is off.

This problem follows a cool sloping rail with surprisingly slick texture up and left to reach the lip of the boulder where jugs are found.  Follow the jugs up and right along the lip until you can mantel.  The height, steep angle, and lack of footholds below the rail all add to the experience.

A badger...think of the badger. Make your dreams wet and cinch your stomach down (clutch).

The frosting is just the tip of the cake on this one. Put your body through two holes. Don't even think about touching the first one...but the second one? Let it caress your sweet, smooth bod and rip holes in your brand new Brandy Melville brand t-shirt. As you exit the hole, simply walk over to the other hole and go for another lap...or 2, or 3 or 4 or 5 or many.

This is about as good as it gets. And this is just the part of the iceberg that's above the water, there's a lot more iceberg where that came from!!!

Start with right sidepull at head height and left lower undercling. Make a log awkward reach to a jug, grab the arete and reach for the top. Landing is not great.

Sit start on sharp crimps to the right of Tiger Snake, traverse left on slopers and join Tiger Snake

Climb the diagonaling crack/seam to its end and punch straight up the east face of the prominent monolith below The Egg.

Start sitting on two low slopers on the left side of the cave. Climb up to the jug, then traverse left ending on "Shrimps"

Undocumented problem that turned out to have some really interesting holds and movement.

Start on a good sloper and a rounded crimp near the middle of the cave, then traverse left under the roof up the crack, and exit left - video in comments.

Crux for me was getting up out of the crack. Watch out for sharp holds in the crack!

Obscure one from the old guide, had to clean it up and clear some overgrowth on the top out.

Start sitting on the left end of the crack, do some smeary layback moves up to the arete, then move up over the bulge for an awkward and somewhat exciting top out.

Head up the shallow pockets in the middle of the slab on the small boulder to the left of Dean Problem.  Pretty short but worth a go if you're in the area.

Start with both hands in the crack feature. There seems to be a left hand sloper, and a left hand finger lock. Go with what you like best. Right hand is on a flat edge. Foot on the little chicken head. Up to the obvious chicken head, and edges to either side. Crux is the top out.

Start sitting just right of the tree and move straight up to edges, avoiding the problem to the right, mantle straight over the start. V9 Variation finishes on Christopher Reeve. The feet are bad going for the top. The top hold is great if you can get to it.

Start as for Tiger Snake Venom but head up and slightly left avoiding the good holds from the v3 to the right.

Start on rail under tiered roof. Do some hard moves to the jug and then topout through the crack. V12 if you continue to traverse out left ending on Shrimps.

Description

Routes in Cabbage Patch