Smokey Bent Me Over

Stegosaurus “Beaut”

Gun Friendly Forest

Demo Deception

Wonderful World of Wreckreation

Pay to Play

Larry the Tool Wants You

Million Dollar Foot Bridge

Sub-Aqueous Tractor Retrieval

Friction climbing to a steeper arete--rib feature. Then face climb over the rib to the belay.

This route is comprised of excellent, highly featured, well-protected, granite crack climbing with a variety of styles and movement. It is very unique for the formation and area and in my humble opinion, an excellent adventure.

The route follows a series of cracks through 3 increasingly large, difficult, left trending roofs to a bolted anchor at the top. It can be done in 1-3 pitches depending on one’s comfort level with the grade and spacing of protection. On the first ascent, we climbed it in 2 pitches.

The first pitch follows the lovely right trending flake (10b) through the first, small roof, pulling through the left side. This leads to easier terrain past the old raptor nest underneath the 2nd, large, left trending roof. Work through a surprisingly good, well protected roof crack to easier terrain (11b). You can build an anchor anywhere above the 2nd roof or use the slung block. If you’ve had enough, you can rap from the block but if you want more, the 3rd roof offers a puzzling, 3D boulder problem and the crux of the route (11c). Continue up and left, following features and cracks skirting the overhanging chimney on its outside edge. Once you reach the left edge of the 3rd roof, step out right to a small sloping foot ledge and blindly paw at some features above to reach the bolted anchors. This series of moves is very exposed and is protected by some very small cams! EXCITING! A 60M, partially free-hanging rappel gets you to the bottom.

This route has taken myself and a close group of friends years to piece together. Big thanks to Chris Hagen for many adventures, lots of scouting, and hard work. This would not have been possible without you. And to all the others who helped support the increasing obsession, thank you.

There are features that look unstable, like the raptor nest under the 2nd roof, or the block under the 3rd roof, but I assure you, the rock is quite solid. The protection is quite ample and very good. I recall my exploratory leads allowed me to place gear almost every 4 or 5 feet so if this grade feels a bit out of reach for you, as it did

for me, trust that you can protect it well.

Note

: this route is mostly protected by the rain due to the overhanging nature of the climb. There are some seeps, but otherwise can be climbed during times of light precipitation. The first ascent was done between showers!

Easy moves through the first few bolts lead to the crux at about the 7th bolt. Find you way through this steep spot [check your footing, some crumbly flakes] to find fun moves to the anchors.

A long, sustained slab climb.

The first pitch, a relatively clean and is solid 5.10d slab,  climbs up through smooth angles on to a continuous friction slab, then to a large flake/roof. More slab continues to the anchors.

The second pitch is slightly easier (~5.10c). It continues with slight corners up to a slowly steeper and more featureless rock until the anchors below the huge roof. Expect to pull cruxes well above bolts; not runout per se, especially because there's nothing to hit.

Description

Protection

Routes in Fee Demo Wall