Sharp face climbing past 8 bolts to anchors. 

Gettin’ My Fix

Blood Chemestry Adjustment

Wine Enema

Fly'n The Spinnaker

Papa Don't Take No Meds

First Hit

Bobcat Roof

Nitras Oxide

[Redacted]

Wake and Bake

While the climbing was enjoyable, especially around the third bolt, the rock quality and bolting makes this one worthy of a 'bomb'. 

  Immediately after clipping the first bolt I pulled two fist-sized chunks off the wall.  Fortunately I had the foresight to not use either of these for the clip.  This I can overlook. 

  After the broken band one is forced to climb above a ledge on abysmal rock.  The bolt placement is such that should the climber fall due to poor judgement or a hold breaking he will hit the deck. 

  Lastly pulling the rope dislodged a massive stone that could have seriously injured anyone standing below.  My belayer and I were lucky to have not been hit. 

  In my opinion this route should undergo further cleaning and the bolting should be reconsidered.  I am open to other opinions.

Fun route with three different cruxes. Starts directly underneath the large hole in the middle of the wall and climbs to the left of it.

Climb the dihedral with bolts on the left wall to anchors. 

Just left of the big hole. Crux at the bottom then the route lets up.

Climb the wall right of the dihedral to anchors

Great route to the far left of the wall underneath the large roof, and behind a large boulder. Watch the first bolt, you may want to clip from the boulder. On my first attempt at this route, a large hunk of rock came off in my hand causing me to fall on the first bolt. Was glad that I clipped from the boulder!

Walk left of the large hole in the wall and you will come upon a small alcove. The route starts at the left of the alcove on a separate piece of rock from the main wall, and eventually joins up with the main wall to go up over a roof, through the small crimpy crux, and to the top.

Good warm up with brief cruxes, several rests, excellent rock quality, and lots of moderate climbing. Start right of juniper, in corner, traversing from the right to the first clip. 9 bolts

Two routes left of the big hole in the center of the wall. Been over a year since I have done this route. But I remember the crux being directly under the roof and looking a little crumbly. However, nothing came off when I climbed it! Also has a difficult start.

South facing and in the sun all day, this cliff is the home of the tallest routes in Jacks, at up to 90 feet! You will NOT find this area in the old guide book. (You will find this area in the latest guide) Though there is not a huge concentration of climbs here, it does make for a fun day in the winter time, when it would otherwise be cold in the shade. While the majority of the rock here is of good quality, be careful! Some of the rock in the mid section of the cliff tends to be somewhat crumbly. Of course, as with other climbs at Jacks, these climbs are all bolt protected with top anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lost World at Jacks Canyon