Big Red

Whale's Back

Gobbler, The

Color Me Badass

Technicolor

Color Me Bad

Unnamed 5.10 (left)

Goliath

Barkolounger

Mono

Unnamed

Matete

GoldenEye

Sampson

Unknown

Reach Around

Mr Pink

Unnamed, Jr.

The Crowning

Techni-Construction

Laz-Y-Boy

H-Man

Strawberry Blondes

On the Up and Up

David

“unknown”

Unnamed 5.10-

Unnamed 12-

Purple Rain

Baby Blue

60 Beers Later

The edges of the crack are crisp and the rock is good in all the places it needs to be. It has a .5 sized changing corner right off the ground and continues into ring lock and thin hands territory for most of the route. You may want to keep a .3 for the top. The variety of crack styles is what makes this thing quality.

Beautiful corner hand crack! First 30 feet or so vary in quality until you lob yourself over the large hump  to a ledge. From there enduro up the corner to the chain anchors.

Start on a huge block on a right facing corner. Stick to the corner until you reach bolted anchors. After the offwidths, you'll be rewarded with chimney moves to an easy finish. Bring a lot of #4 BD cams.

The route for which the wall was named and for good reason. Named (i'm guessing) for beautiful streaking on the wall to the right. Because of its location it is often (always?) sandy and this makes your life harder. Great shade climb but not much else nearby. Steep !!

Begin on typical broken, ledgy terrain and then launch into a great hands corner through a roof. Above the roof the crack thins from 2.5 friends down to green camalots. Milk a rest in a pod with hands before the thin, hard ending (yellow-blue metolius).

Shade Beta: If you do this climb first (and are slow and lazy about it) the area facing the road where most of the climbs are will begin to get shade.

Initially a 2-star route considering the first 20 feet, which were sandy, but after that section, 3-star climbing and better rock. Updates suggest that the route has cleaned up, and so I change the rating given to 3 stars, which I suspected it would be if it got some traffic.

Jam and cling up the left-facing corner in an undulating crack that goes from slab to steep and back again a few times... It's pretty physical for the grade and a slot 2/3 of the way up is the crux. Smaller climbers may have an advantage there.

The worst part about this route was it's name- probably after a completely terrible pop-band in the early 90's who had a terrible and annoying MTV hit 'I Want to Sex U Up.' The low-light of my weekend was that running through my head for the first god-awful time in 15+ years.

Nice left-facing corner that is deceptively wide.

The climb was pretty nice and was mostly perfect fists and forearm jams for me. My fists are small, but my forearms about the size of a normal person's fist jam, so for large hands it would be cups to perfect fists.

The top end of the route is easier owing to some footholds, but you get pumped getting there.

Climb through broken cracks in a dihedral for 25 feet to gain a ledge. Either start jamming a good hand crack right off the ledge or stem into it a few feet up. Enter a shallow left facing dihedral for 20 feet before pulling onto the face where the  crack narrows gradually from hands to tight fingers with marginal feet to the right. The last 20 feet angle back left with very tight fingers to anchors on a ledge.

Climb the fingers to thin hands to hands flake towards a corner.  Switch cracks and finish as per La-Z-Boy with an OW move.

Another left-facing dihedral with shallow finger cracks.

Anchors shared with 'Matete' (5.10)

Good route for the moderate leader. Climbs a fairly mellow crack on the main wall, right in the corner between the main wall and a large pillar.

This is a fun and interesting hand crack in a left facing dihedral.

Some stemming between the dihedral and a second thin crack on the right in the mid section gave this Kiwi lass's girly girls arms a break at the end of a typical labor intensive day at The Creek.

Enjoyed this climb a lot.

GoldenEye is located on the far west end of the south face of the Technicolor Wall. It is easiest to approach this route from the campsite on the valley floor as it is a long trudge across the slope from the nearest, Unnamed routes to the east. Whichever way you get there, the hike will be  well worth it: a full 36+ meters of burly Canyonlands crack climbing.

The route starts out with rattly fingers, goes to finger stacks and thin hands, then a fairly long section of decent hands. Catch a rest in the wide-hands section before things go back to thin hands and finger stacks, with a 20 foot crux of steep, rattly-finger, cooler-than-Bond laybacking to the anchors. Arrive (shaking and stirred) at the perfectly positioned anchors.

P1) 5.10; offwidth up two steps to a natural belay. 50'

P2) 5.11-; offwidth and squeeze inside of a massive chimney. 100' bring a extra large cam, tubes or run it out.

P3) 5.11+; face traverse left into an amazing splitter that goes from .75 camalot to a number 6. 90'

This corner and crack system starts that has anchors about 22 meters up. A small but corner and crack system leads to these anchors.  Start off on the crack with some wider pieces and continue up physical moves past a deep crux (long arms useful) and up over a small roof to gain narrower jams, nearly perfect hands for the top 1/2.

Rap from the fixed anchors.

Start up double cracks to the left of the main corner.  At an obvious ledge traverse right to the main corner and continue up through the sizes from fingers to hands with lots of feet on the left wall.  Near the top the crack slowly tapers down to fingers again with a few hand pods and flares.  Finish by throwing a foot out left and pulling up onto a nice ledge.  Unfortunately the rock quality near the top deteriorates somewhat but overall the route is fun, with lots of varied movement and easier than it looks from the ground.

A beautiful corner crack starting with kneejams and handstacks narrowing to off fists before moving left out a roof with rattly fists/lieback. Then climb up a continuously narrowing crack past a good no hands rest as the crack gets smaller, shrinking to fingers and mad stemming/liebacking before clipping the high quality bolted anchor.

This is the right-most of the two isolated, Unnamed routes approximately 250 meters east of GoldenEye on the south wall of the Technicolor Buttress.

The route follows a double-crack system inside of a stem-box/chimney/vertical tunnel that gets steeper and more fun as you go. Fairly sustained with a bit of a crux about two-thirds of the way up. An interesting oddity.

Gorgeous Chimney and a fantastic escape from the sun.

It has a hand crack in the back left.  Climb the well protected crack for the 85' first pitch or stem the chimney.  Two tricky moves near the top.

70' second pitch is nearly all off width.

I LOVED this literally cool climb. Still in my top three.

Name stone identifier at base.

Start in a tight chimney with some loose chockstones you have to pass through.  Staying on the outside of the chimney offers no pro other than big-bros, but its very enjoyable to go all the way in, where there is a twin set of cracks that accept good gear from fingers to hands.  Any of these options is around 5.10.

After pulling out of the chimney, you'll find a single modern bolt and drilled angle at the base of the looming off-width crack above.  This is the crux.  Enter the offwidth, resist the urge to step on the drilled piton, and make a few difficult moves before features on the right wall offer relief.  The final section of the route eases up to hands and fingers at a lower angle.

A fun and varied route thats well worth the effort.  Excellent chimneying and off-width are the hallmarks of this route.

Kind of a mixed bag from OW hands a little face to a sweet overhanging splitter on thin hands to a funky pod top out.  Crisp splitter.

Start the first pitch at the base of a right facing corner.  I love David Blooms description in the 'Indian Creek Guide'(2nd Ed):

"Starts hands, goes to rattly fists.  Second pitch is more rattly fists"

It was too rattly for my girly girl fists so lots of lie-backing for me.  I  found it fun, but strenuous.  It was however my first trip to The Creek.

Start compressed sitting and squeeze your way out this short featured arete.

Looking left of a large pillar, you will see a large hands crack with a huge pod about 15 feet up. This is it. Crux is getting out of the pod and back into the hand crack. Fun climb for those with large hands! People with smaller seem to struggle a bit.

Climb a zigzag off-width to a chimney and continue up to a nice anchor.  Rap off or traverse 20 ft right on the big ledge and find the second pitch: an absolutely perfect camlot#6 splitter.

If it were longer it would absolutely be maximum stars quality but even so it’s really good. Get into the flare and power up over a couple small roofs and through a brief splitter to the obvious jutting flake...which felt solid to pull/stand on but not sure I’d recommend pro’ing it up but perhaps the safest option is a med/large size nut on the right. The remainder of the difficulties are also finger size dependent as the crack slowly thins and the corner angle changes.

Larger sized hands will need to employ an alternate strategy for the last section where the fingers won’t fit, which leads me to recognize a serious safety hazard. Be VERY careful near the end when tempted to stem left to the obvious large flake. It is very hollow and is supporting a few more smaller even less stable flakes that touch the roof above.

I would recommend fixing a rope and crowbarring the entire mess of flakes off the wall (100’s of pounds). It’s a serious timebomb for sure. I climbed the route on 12/24/18 and removed an extremely loose keyed-in flake from its bottom and unfortunately that rained down a bunch of sand and bird shit, so whomever goes up next will need to brush much of the crack. Sorry. I think with the hollow/loose  flakes removed, the crack will no longer get sandy and this route will become a safe and timeless cliff classic!

Also, be careful when pulling the rope as to not get it wedged in that jutting flake...

A better climb than it appears. Long legs are useful to rest in a seated position in the initial stem-box. Once in the chimney, protected from any heat of the sun, a stem and finger flake system rides easier territory to the top, owing to the many available footholds.

This is a decent climb which is a little slick at the bottom compared to other nearby routes- it was a bit dusty when I started, but brushed it out. It will probably be dusty again soon.

Start off in the thin finger crack and pro from the best stances you can get (still bad) whenever possible. As the crack widens, it actually gets harder.

The crux is the sustained nature of the bottom 10-12 meters. While there is a horizontal with a jam for a good rest about 8 meters up, there are some hard ring locks and teacups just after that which are quite hard.

From the top of this, hit some thin-hands jams and then proceed to finish up on another 15 meters of easier climbing, moving left and right with decent jams or holds. Good thing too, because I was pumped out of my mind...

go left up top just before a ledge, then back right on the ledge about 3 -4 meters to an anchor.

Rap from the anchor- lowering would be rough on your rope. Cleaning gear on rap would also be a pain in the butt and hard on your rope.

TR is also going to be hard on your rope and you'd be in for a nasty swing if you fell from the top.

Climb hand crack in shallow right facing corner. Easily passed wide sections and fun hands bulge near the top. Fun warm-up. It started raining when we made the plaque, this one is for your Prince.

Between 45 and 50 meters of bigness.

Starts with 10 meters of squeeze with 6s for pro.

reach a horizontal, and ascends blocky hand section.

remainder is mostly splitter 6s and big bros.

good for a pump.

This is a wide big hands route just to the left of H-Man

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Protection

Routes in Technicolor Wall