This is a pretty unique route. The climbing and rock are pretty good in a few spots (and dirty in many others) but what really makes it worthwhile is the position. It climbs right along the lip of a really steep wall and, combined with the slab of the Cookie Sheet below, makes for a really exposed endeavor. There are some decent runouts on traversing terrain and routefinding issues to deal with.The cherry on top is the descent, unique in all the valley. Altogether, a great adventure

Here's a thread with some more beta:

Supertopo

P1 - this is a total junker up through choss and dirt. Fire activity has mostly burned all the PO but has also made the soil very unstable. Anyway, aim up and right for a large, living pine tree. Pass this then head up and left through some mantles and bushes to the base of a nice handcrack

P2 - up the handcrack then step out on the slab to avoid bushes. pass an oak and belay near dead pine

P3 - locate the first bolt out right, climb past it, then keep going up and right passing one more bolt that protects a hard mantle move. I didn't find any pins on this pitch. Belay at one bolt with a ring on it and small gear. There's a 2 bolt anchor clearly seen out right that I think is the top anchor to 'the higher truth' on the sugar cookie, but you don't climb to it.

It sounds like many have bailed from this point, P4 looking a bit too gnarly. I think you could rap straight down and hit the anchor for 60/40 on the sugar cookie with one rope, but not 100% on that one. There is an easier variation to P4 that goes straight up. There is a bolt maybe 15 ft. up and bit left from the anchor. "Afraid of the Edge"

P4 - big exposure! the crux moves come pretty close to the belay so it may be better to have stronger partner follow. blowing it while following would result in a ride over the edge. there was nothing "blind" about the moves, imo, just a hard foot match. anyway, clip a bolt 15 ft. right of the belay, head up a corner, then traverse right to another bolt. easier and runout climbing leads up and right past one more bolt. I belayed on a clean slab with a horizontal crack for gear. They call this 5.8+... whatever... 5.9

P5 - head up the corner to get established on the upper slab, traverse straight right to a bolt and climb the arete on jugs. some more awesome exposure here. belay at some small, living pines.

P6 - this is kind of an unnerving pitch. head straight right, and even slightly down, to get established on the featured wall. follow the path of least resistance, mostly straight right. eventually, and hopefully, you will find a bolt. it's kind of hidden but just keep looking. Then head up to some black rock and perform some awesome and big moves on good rock, protected by good gear in a horizontal. You may wish to stop and belay at the big pine above. Otherwise, keep heading right on the dirty ledge to a big flake

P7 - climb the big flake/crack that leads to the top.

Edge of Absurdity

Separate Reality

Tales of Power

Through Bein' Cool

Separate Reality is the photogenic, quintessential Yosemite roof climb. It's short, aesthetic, athletic, and buckets o' fun.

Take Hwy 120 out of the Valley and after going through two short tunnels, park at a paved pullout immediately before the third, long tunnel. Hike up the road to the mouth of this tunnel, jump over the stone wall, and follow a steep track down the cliff for 3 minutes. This deposits you at the top of the Separate Reality visor. At the top of the slab use the bolted anchor to fix a line and do a short (80') rap down to a staging area at the base of the climb.

It's pretty obvious: Climb the steep lieback flake to a stance, then bust out the 20' roof to a wild series of moves at the lip.

This route is soooo beautiful! The climb starts with an awkward overhanging chimney. After that you get a rest then it moves into beautiful thin hand jams up an overhanging wall. This route shouldn't feel as hard for people with thinner hands. Those with thicker hands may have trouble in the mid-section of the hand crack. I feel like I have normal sized hands and ended up getting about six real tight thumbs up jams in a row. The crack does widen up though so just keep cranken'. The last 15 feet is a tight squeeze chimmney that some people like myself end up liebacking. A classic 5.12 crack!

P.S this climb is featured in the extra scenes of the film "The Sharp End".

This is a good obscure crack.  Pretty easy for the grade but steep and exposed.  Worth the walk and the exploring!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ak. Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie