The far left side of the Meadows is mostly a collection of lower angle slabby climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.9...However all the way left it gets quite steep and there is one line in particular that stands out.... 

  No Money Down is a Gunks like climb that starts in a corner on the left end of The Meadows and goes over a beautiful roof (this was the farthest route left when the last guide was published).... Starting up the corner you climb about 35 feet up on awkward but moderate horizontal edges.... Rest briefly and head up to the roof toward a weird horn and a hueco.... Pull over the roof and, just when you think it's over, you hit the crux.... All the holds seem to be at odd angles, your feet leave something to be desired, and it can be reachy for smaller climbers...but don't despair, one or two moves to the left will deliver the chains.... 

  This was a mostly trad route with one bolt at the crux, but it got bolted recently... So now it is for anyone and everyone to try....

No Money Down

The Coveted

Rose Garden

Repossession

Mr. Popular

The Payment Plan

Student Loan

False Modesty

Truth in Advertising

Dung Beetle

Easy Terms

Thou Shalt Not Covet

A newish route to the left of No Money Down... Pretty fun really but not my style... If you like sharp, powerful, bouldery climbing dig in... 

  Climb the moderate start up a juggy vertical face that is much like the start of No Money Down... The big difference between this climb and that one is that once you get to the roof this crux is about V5 rather than the V1 or V2 that gets you to the chains on No Money Down (5.10c)... A good jug before the roof lets you rest a little (though you might not need it) before pulling in to some powerful moves out a roof and a rounded bulge... The holds are sharp and keeping your feet on requires some core strength... There looks to be many options for a sequence through the crux... I've even heard that a knee bar is possible (but i havent found it), however you get it done, have fun with it... 

  I use an undercling left on the roof, then a pocket with a thumb catch right, to a pretty good but very sharp left hand hold and a big move with a right leg drop-knee to a crimp before getting my hands over the top via a couple smaller moves... Mantel to the ledge and clip the chains...

This is an old historical route put up using traditional gear for protection, that is seldom done now. It roughly follows the line of Thou Shalt Not Covet, but at the top roof, pull on to the face and  traverses left (crux)to get to the anchors, which Student Loan now shares. Gear is still needed for the top. It's attraction was mainly pulling a fingery pocket move on the face. 

  When being cleaned at a later date, it was realized that it was much easier to just keep going straight up, so anchors were put in, making Thou SNC, an easier variation. 

  This route doesn't have much to recommend now that there are so many other routes, but if you are bored, throw on a swami belt and lead it on gear.

Good warm up route for the area (or introduction to Rumney climbing).  Start on blocks just left of the gully and to the right of Truth in Advertising.  Clip the first bolt, step onto the face, and continue past five more bolts to the anchors.  The only difficulty lies between the last bolt and the anchors.  Felt a little harder than Truth in Advertising.

I'm not a huge fan of this route but it does serve a few purposes... First and most important it thins out the crowds a bit and gives you something to climb while waiting for No Money Down... Second, It's a great route on which to climb your first 5.10 cause it only has one 5.10 move and its a pretty short route... And 3rd, the crux is fun so why not take a spin on it... 

  Climb the easy start past a couple bolts then up in to steep climbing on good holds and finally overcome the bulge and gain a good stance at the anchor... Enjoy it while it lasts cause its over fast...

Very hard to get off the ground on this climb. Shorter climbers struggling at the grade won't be able to get off the ground. However, once you are off the ground this climb becomes quiet fun and moves very well over great Rumney schist. This climb finishes on some very fun moves on underclings while traversing across a bulge to the anchors.

Climb the arete right of No Money Down (5.10c), then up the slab to the roof.... Undercling and crimp your way to a big move to a good hold and to the shared anchors of The Coveted, 5.11b. 

  I've heard this route called 5.11a, but I think its crux is harder, so I called it 5.11b.... 

Probably the easiest route in the area.  The first bolt is a ways off the ground, but the angle is a little less steep than the neighboring climbs.  Big holds along the entire route make for easy climbing.  The last couple moves around the overhang at the top are fun.  The guide book says that everything below the anchors is 5.6, with the last 5.7 mantle above the anchors.

Truth in Advertising starts just left of Rose Garden.  The first bolt is a little ways off the ground, but the climbing is straight forward on good holds.  Continue up and right past two more bolts to a hidden pin in a horizontal (can be backed up with a medium cam).  One more bolt leads to the anchors.

Another route up this fun (but often crowded) slab... It shares the same feel as the rest of the routes on this face but adds a fun and challenging move over (or around) a roof at the top...  

  A very moderate slab leads to a hard pull over the small roof at the top... Going straight over the roof is 5.9... You can avoid the direct roof move by going around to the right at 5.8...

Easy Terms is a fun, moderate climb.  Like many of the routes here, the first bolt is a little high, but easy to get to.  The route zig-zags back and forth across the face, making the next move not always obvious.  The crux is a relatively smooth stretch between the first and second bolts, with some additional strenuous moves below the third bolt.  Above the third bolt the climbing eases significantly to the anchors.

Climb what was the start of The Coveted (5.11b), up an easy slab to a few undercling moves (that can seem tough till you get it right), out to the right and up a short, shallow corner.... Clip the chains, but remember to do another move or two to the top of the cliff (they are the best moves on the route, I think)....   The anchors were left low, so the ropes run smoothly.... 

  Not in the guidebook....

Left side of the meadows...Sport routes from slaby 5.7s to steep 5.12a...

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in No Money Down (Left)