A finger tips crack with an exciting exit under a small roof.  Climb awkward feeling moves to access crack and sew it up with the appropriate small gear.  At the roof, exit left underneath roof on good jams until you touch ground.

 According to Phoenix Rock, this route was originally a 5.8++.  Two pluses must equal a 10.

John's Bag

Slime Slit

George of the Jungle

Static Cling

Chalk Bag

Sand's Bag

Triple "J" Direct

Pissed Off

Almost a face climb with a thin crack for protection on impeccable rock.  Some fairly blind placements of tiny cams will keep the leaders attention.  Choose your foot placements wisely...walk up the crack or keep one on the face. 

Either start at the base of the large crack that is completely covered by hop-seed bushes or an obvious arete just to the right of the large crack.  Not wanting to mess with the shrubbery we began on the arete and it worked nicely.  Decent rock but watch for some large loose blocks within the first 35 feet (easily avoided), overall an easy scramble and nice warmup.

P1: 5.10.  slick start up an easy angle that quickly gets more vertical. Follow a shallow finger tips crack to the first bolt approximately 20 feet up. From here the angle eases off again.  Clip a couple more bolts, past a horizontal hollow sounding crack, and then angle left to the anchors for Triple J.  Or clip a nice bolt, about paralell with the anchors and keep going up.  Crux is below first bolt to the second.    P2: 5.10- (from McDowell rock) climb crack on right side of face andthen over face and ramp to right somewhat around corner.  A crack leads to the top and anchor.  PG13 for the slick start and small gear protecting the crux.

A nice warmup route.  If there is a crux it will be encountered around the bushes near the start, otherwise fairly easy and straightforward.

This route has a difficult start and a few more hard moves in the beginning.  Fairly short but strenuous and worth the time.  One can continue in the crack or climb the face straight up once you exit the thin start and locate a nice jam higher up.

Tighten the edging shoes and have a clear head before leading this beauty.  We top-roped this route and it still rivals some of the best, often climbed routes in the McDowell's.  The first pitch is excellent on its own and would protect safely and easily with medium cams, felt 5.7.  Pitch two is more demanding and possibly frightening if you fall.  From the chain anchor, climb past bolt and upward to thin crack out right.  Crack will take small cams and nuts.  Exit crack to the left, cross the thin face and make it to a beautiful, solid crack that takes you to the summit.

The crux is moving over/around the roof at the second bolt.  Rock quality is great and the climb after the roof eases off and is enjoyable and safe.  A nice warmup for other routes in the area or as a stand alone climb.

This is the showcase wall of the area, with an east face that rises to nearly 200 feet (one of the longest faces in the McDowells). Original exploration and establishment of routes here was done by pioneer climbers John Ficker and Jason Sandidge, known for their solid climbing skills and mentally challenging routes. Recent addition of retrobolts to their established climbs is sort of an insult, given todays climbers have better (and more) gear and way better shoes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall