I hope I am not sand-bagging a 5.7 leader, but this is one that is listed in the guide as 5.8, and is quite a bit easier than other Leavenworth 5.8's

Meet me in the corner

The Visor

Madsen's Chimney

Air Roof

Viser Chimney

La Cucaracha

La Bamba

Master of Arms

Short, obscure, awkward and well worth doing. Hand crack, juggy face holds= fun.

The obvious roof above the road across from the Snow Creek parking lot.  Apparently this route is now free few details are known at this time.  As Jonah notes below, nailing is not acceptable on this route.

Killer line with 2 cruxes. You can build an anchor in the corner at the base of the crack to hold the belayer in place on a decent ledge. Fire up and back on powerful hand jams and pull onto the decent ledge around the corner. Rest up and get ready to fire the roof on solid but painful finger locks. After the roof the climbing eases off to around 10a, but is a little dirty.

Long ignored, but deserving more attention. The chimney can be climbed mostly as a straight in crack. The crux is some steep face climbing getting into the chimney.

When I was on this some very large rocks peeled off near the start. It is cleaner now, but requires some thin insecure face moves that are very hard to protect. There is a shallow cam placement on the left side but the rock is soft there. I was considering adding a bolt. If you climb this let me know if you think it is needed.

This gets 1 star in Kramar's book, I think he prefers slabs. This is a great and fun little climb. Seems soft for the Leavenworth grade of 10d. Maybe 10c or 10b. The book also says gear to 1". the first piece is a #3, and you could place a #2 or #3 up higher on the right side of flake.

A fun sport route on solid rock with a couple cruxes, Kramar's guide talks about a crux at the first bolt but I found the top to be much more difficult, possibly because of the new anchor up and left.  Drifting towards the chimney substantially reduces the grade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Madsen's Buttress