The Sloth

The Dream

Meenehan's Staircase

Buckets of Blood Arete

Chockstone Chimney

Vulgarian Wedge

Shipley's

Elsie's Other

Elsie's Nose

Upper Wall Jam Crack

Jan's Face

The Bump

Eight Ball

Herbie's Horror

Swayback Layback

Fat Man's Fantasy

Evan's Bolt Ladder

The Flake

Sweethog

Chris' Cruz

Buckets of blood (overhang)

Tea and Scrumpet

Ronnie's Leap

The Rack

Herbie's Left

Beginner's Crack

Upper Wall Crack

The Dream Direct

Margie's Chimney

The X

Copycat

Twitch

Swollen Head

The Rack Direct

Jan's Face - Var: Left Edge

Meenehan's Edge

Sterling's Crack

Shonard's Lunacy

The Diamond

Left Edge of Jane's Face

Jam Crack

Marion's Chimney

Impossible

Death Nerve

Elsie's

Barnacle Face

Elsie's Arete

Wet Dream

Beginner's Face

Overhanging Block

Often called just 'Meenehans' and is done as a right layback with the feet close to the edge. Although it may seem easier to use left handholds on the face about 8 inches from the edge, these are off route and often lead to an off balance position. This climb can be done one-handed.   A 5.10 finish requiring a layback on the upper block.

Start on a large talus block at the base, and work up to the left side of the overhang.  Commit to the crimps, and traverse out to a jug or two.  Make your way over the lip (crux), and finish on 5.easy slab.     A fun boulder problem with an easy finish.  Make sure to warm up the fingers before you do it; the crimps are a little strenuous, and come out of nowhere, obviously.

Start at the left end of Beginner's Face at the very edge of the rock.   #1. Climb face diagonally left. ending between two blocks.

Perhaps the best steep climb at Carderock, the glorious overhanging arete on the back side of the X-face beckons the passing climber with its siren song of incut crimps on the right and heel-hooks on the left. An optional sit-start increases the difficulty and makes the top moves quite strenuous.

Start at the base of the large chimney left of Jan's face.   Climb chimney using chimney technique and not the obvious easy corner.

Start same as the Death Nerve.   Climb up the wedge shaped flake.     If only the outside face of the wedge is used, its a 5.11

Climb the face straight up past the big crystal between Swayback Layback and Ronnie's Leap.  The holds for Ronnie's Leap are off route.

This is a test peace to see if you have foot work and balance, Its sidewise so your mid must be centered. This is rated 5.7 and strikes fear in the heart of leaders who think 5.7 is easy.

Start at the crack to the right of Upper Wall Crack.   #1. Often used as an easy solo route to get up and down this area.

The climb can run anywhere up the face of the rock.  The quartz knobs are plentiful, but very slick and difficult to hold or stick a foot on.

Straight up on knobs till you hit a big horizontal, then easy ground to the top out.

The best line on Jane's Face, this tricky slab route features a couple of awesome mantle moves.  The holds you mantel on are deeply in-cut crimps, so you can pull them down to your ankles.     Most of the holds are reasonably good, but they often face the wrong direction, or require careful sequencing, very high steps, etc.  You'll probably find the crux to be at two-thirds height, where these features are amplified a bit.   A fun problem that can easily be tried from an anchor on The Flake, or Jane's Face.

Start to the right of the Jam Crack slab but before you get into the chimney on the right.  Just to the right of the detached flake.  The holds are small and crimpy and good footwork is in order.  It gets a little thinner at the very top.

Layback & face climb up the right facing corner. 

  Pretty fun.

Start same as the Vulgarian Wedge.   Chimney up the rock between the Vulgarian Wedge and The Rack on the right.

Start at the face just right of Sterling's Crack.   Climb straight up through downward flakes.

Stay between the left two of three incipient cracks.There are some nice big holds out left, but don't touch them; they are not on the route. Start with a committing and delicate layback, then climb thin holds to the top. The crux is about 2/3 of the way up.

Climb straight up the center of the face to the left of Elsie's Arete and right of Copy Cat.

Start in Chockstone Chimney, opposite Herbie's Horror.   Starting on the outer most edge of the chockstone chimney, where the left facing side meets Jan's Face, climb the wall nearest the edge and then up.

This is the overhang with nasty little crimps at about head height. Stay off the Arete for the V10, and there is evidence of a butt-start for super points.

Taken outside, near the grassy banks of a small river, on a glorious spring day, with plenty of butter and raspberry jam, few things in life are nicer than tea and crumpets. Congruently, there are few boulder problems on the Carderock schist that can compare to the delight that is known as Tea and Scrumpet. Yet, what  you may ask  is a scrumpet?  The Oxford English Dictionary defines it as "an elegantly awkward rock climbing move executed with one's genetalia an uncomfortably short distance from the rock."    

Named after the eponymous dog of a neighbour of Jan Conn. Stories differ, but apparently the pooch saw a rabbit or squirrel below and charged off the cliff, landing dazed but unhurt at the bottom. 

  Another sort of eliminate. Deep in the right facing corner of the beginner's area, climb without using crack holds.

Climb the first 15 feet of large blocks with easy feet and hands. Stand on the second block and stare down the crux move reaching for high jugs or by fighting your way through small quartz pinches and crimps to an easy slab finish.

A nice climb and a good warmup and progression from Jam Crack.  It goes basically straight up left of Herbie's Horror from the top of the two detached flakes.  Decent holds and two small bulges to get past.

Though a bit slippery at the bottom due to thousands of climber's soles, this large crack in the Beginner's alcove is a great first climb.

Start on the face above and right of Elsie's and above Barnacle Face.   #1. Often soloed, this can be done as a face climb or a layback. There are also face climbs to the right of the crack (5.8,5.10)

The direct version of The Dream is significantly harder.  12- might be a little stiff, but maybe my beta was bad.     Instead of cheating your way through the roof by starting on the left and traversing, attack the roof head on.  What looks like a burly reach is actually a technical endeavor.  Use a combination of knee bars, powerful underclings (find the crimps!), bicycles, and brawn to make your way to the relatively easy moves of The Dream.

Start at the base of a wide crack in Jan's Face.   Follow chimney to top.

Start on the Barnacle face below the X formed by the inverted V-shaped overhang and incipient cracks.

Climb the right side of Jane's Face without using the wide crack.

Start same as The Dream.   Traverse to the edge with the hands, using the far right face for the feet. Hook feet around flake and layback.

Start at a rib 8 feet left of Ronnie's Leap, between Swayback Layback and Shipley's.   Follow rib. Use a combination of knobs as well as small right and left laybacks.

Start at the bottom outside corner to the left of Sterling's Crack.   #1. Using an undercling, move up to right edge and quartz nubbins on the left face; then work the feet high enough to reach better handholds. Pull the overhang. Keeping balance, continue  up the arete to the top.

Start at the right corner of the chimney and up to a small overhang   Go right around overhang and then up.

Well, it's not really a 5.7, but that's part of the charm of Carderock, isn't it?  Work the semi-polished corner with a mixture of stemming, face-holding, and jamming.  The rock is bullet hard and clean, like most of Carderock. Pretty cool route that is unexpectedly technical and demanding for the grade.

Kind of an eliminate.  Climb up using only the face, once above the diamond, head left for the top.

Finding the right way is the difficult part here. For the path of least resistance, use both the face and the arete.  Fun moves on great rock.

Start on an easy sloping face directly below crack.  About half way up you top out on this face and step across to the crack.  Use the crack and the holds on the face to go the rest of the way up.

Start: Base of a wide chimney formed by the left side of the Barnacle face.   Climb the chimney.

Start on the right facing  side of the Barnacle Face block.   Starting at the bottom right edge use fingertip holds to get to the quartz knobs. Proceed up. Variations can be done on the left edge (5.9) or in the center (5.10+).

Start from a block right of The Dream roof.   Climb the right side of The Dream block using a flake to a long reach; a lunge move.

From AFALCON GUIDE by Eric J. Horst:    "Climb the grooved wall right of Elsie's Nose. The farther left you start, the harder the climbing." 

  Not to be confused with Elsie's Other, this climb varies from 5.6 to 5.8 depending on where you start (as indicated in the guide book). 

Climb the large block leaning against the cliffs left of Beginner's Crack and wall.

Begin on flaky holds on the right side of a low overhang and arete. Follow arete to top.

Start same as The Dream Direct.   Use a right heel hook above the notch, then brings hands up high on the face.

Climb the face to the right of Beginner's Crack.

Start on the first boulder at the beginning of the cliff, approximately 50 feet left of Jan's Face.   Climb the overhang.   A traverse can be started here which goes all the way to Jan's face: stay only on the rock, especially in the Chockstone Chimney and around the tree

Shaded by deciduous forest, Jungle Cliffs contains Carderock's most interesting rock. From the knobs of Herbie's Horror and the smooth bed of Jan's Face, on the upstream side to the roof of the Dream, steep prow of Elisie's Nose to the heavily visited Impossible and Beginner's Crack. The Sloth and Shonnard’s add steepness to the downstream side. Jungle Cliff contains routes from Overhanging Block to Shonnard’s Lunacy. Climbers Left side.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Jungle Cliffs