Located on the feature left of Dr. No Way.  Route follows the vertical crack the right side of the face.  Good rock and great gear opportunities make this a good option for a beginning trad lead for the area.  Two options to finish, described below. 

  As the angle of the rock lessens: 

  1. Continue to follow the crack as it trends slightly left to the belay/rap anchor for 3 RNs. 

  2. Step right onto low angled, featured rock, heading toward a bulge.  Pull the bulge and continue to the top.  A short/easy down-climb will put you at the belay/rap anchor, which is located on the rock face just behind the rout.  The bulge protects well, keeps the route at 5.6, and, in my opinion, is the better finish.  Rap down the gully behind the route.  An easy walk around puts you back at the base of the route.

1923

You Only Nest Twice

Octabulgey

Dr. No Way

3RNs

Located on the feature left of Dr. No Way.  Follow the low angle arete up past two bolts, plugging gear in horizontals in between. Anchor is just below the large summit block. Good rock and ample protection options make this a nice lead for a beginner trad climber.

Continuing the James Bond naming theme...(i.e. from "You Only Live Twice")   Right leaning wide crack through lower section of broken rock. Climb up from this easy crack into the vertical crack that leads to the top. Careful climbing to avoid the raptor nest on the ledge near top. Some loose rock remains despite extensive climbing, but the protection is solid and the climbing is better than expected. Note that the crux is protected with an added bolt because of the somewhat tricky and small gear used to protect the committing move through the bulge.

First climb set in The Refuge. Name derived from the James Bond movie, "Octopussy." First climbed ground up in a wandering way while rope-soloing and searching for good gear placements. Two subsequent leads of the climb convinced AMH to add the bolts to insure a straight line through the crux of the bulges, which increased the difficulty of the climb. Original placements were all horizontal and the cruxes barely protected with small cams. Bolts protect the cruxes, but climb and belay carefully as the most difficult bulge requires very committing moves to clear.

Right leaning crack to broken face with horizontal protection, to overhanging bad rock. Name from the James Bond, "Dr. No". Anchor hangers are in place, but quick links and biners removed to discourage climbing.

The area that includes the first climb set in this area: Octabulgey, which is an excellent climb. The rest of the rock in this area is relatively poor.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Bulges