Start about 10 feet right of Popeye's, beneath a roof about 12 feet off the ground. Work your way up finger cracks and crimps to the roof, then work right using underclings and finger cracks. Crux move is getting past the first roof to jugs just above. Don't relax yet, there's a second roof halfway up, but it's easier than the first. Pull through the roof on the middle to left side and make your way up ledges to the top.

Brutus

Cliff Monster

Popeye's

Bluto's Bluster

Thumb Press Right

Train Song

Professor Watasnozzle

Gold Medallist

Poopdeck Pappy

J. Wellington Wimpy

Crown Of Thorns

Sweet Pea

Cookie Monster

Olive Oyl

Thumb Press

Popeye's Left

Start at the base of the large pointed block about 5 feet right of Popeye's. From the top of the block, climb straight up the middle of the blocky V-shaped roof using crimps and ledges. Go left of the overhanging block above to easier ground above.

Start on the right-facing ramp/corner about 30 feet right of Thumb Press and 30 feet left of Crown of Thorns. Climb up the ramp/corner to a big ledge about 20 feet up. Continue up following the line of least resistance along blocks, ledges, and corners, until you reach a ledge about 10 feet from the top. Traverse right along this ledge for a few feet and then climb up a crack and through the notch. You will top out a couple feet to climber's left of the bolts.

Climb the white-streaked black rock using occasionally good holds to a small roof. Undercling in the crack to reach a pair of "bucket" holds, kick a little bit and reach up to another flat hold in order to get fully past the roof. The fun isn't over. Climb up non-trivial rock past the bolt to a wide ledge. From here you can either trend left (5.10a), go straight up past two old bolts that have been chopped (no bolts or hangers; 5.10+), or step right and work your way up the blockier stuff (5.8). Finish the last moves on easy ground.

A difficult finger crack layback and dyno will get you off the ground to the nice face climb above. Start on the same ramp/corner system as Cliff Monster, but instead of going left up the ramp, go directly up the crack to the ledge above. The crux move may be significantly harder now that a trad climber broke this hold by falling on a cam placement. From the ledge, make a bee line for the top on the smooth face, using thin cracks and crimps. It's 5.10+ near the top if you stay on the smooth face to the left of the "Mar..." graffiti, but right of the blocky Cliff Monster route. Top out through the same notch as Cliff Monster.

If you want a more continuous challenge, start anywhere on the right-facing corner/ramp down and right from the quartz vein and climb up to the detached layback flake just right of the quartz vein. Haul yourself up that until you join the quartz vein, and finish on Thumb Press.

To the right of the main cliff and sort of uphill on a second tier/platform is a stand alone face. It is approximately 50 feet to the right of Popeyes.

Start about 20' to the right of Popeye's beneath the blocky arete, and climb the nose using sidepulls and underclings. The route merges with Brutus at the second roof. Pull through the roof middle to right side.

Climb up the ramp and reach up right to a small detached block. Getting your feet on nothing, smear over and reach up right again to a decent ledge (or follow the rather thin finger cracks straight up for a couple of moves). From the ledge trend up and left, aiming for the noticeable U-slot in the huge detached flake above. Grunt through the slot and continue up on somewhat thin moves on the face above until you can reach slightly better (if sloping) holds on the right and pull up to another stance. Easy climbing from there gains the top.

The route starts about 20 feet right of Brutus and just left of a large stone block at the base of the cliff. Work your way up to the dihedral, using finger cracks and crimps. The crux is getting above the blank face and roof to jugs just above. Follow the dihedral to the top, pulling through a couple small roofs along the way.

Layback the crack in the corner, then work your way up rounded ledges, aiming for the large, detached block above. Chimney behind the block a few moves, then aim left up the left-facing overhanging segment to the broad notch at the top, putting you on a large ledge with bushes. A variant start climbs the outside arete of the corner (5.7-ish) to a ramp, after which you maneuver to rejoin the main route. Many other variations exist by climbing pretty much anywhere up the face.

Start at the middle of the rocky bulge, midway between Cliff Monster and Crown of Thorns. Go straight for the top from here, using small ledges and jugs. Don't be tempted to exit left or right on the big diagonal ledges, you'll miss out on all the fun stuff in between. There are good holds right where you need them all the way up. Exit up and right on the final diagonal ledge near the top, and use the blocky arete to get up and over the final crux.

Cookie Monster follows a series of three left-facing corners to a large ledge created by a huge detached block, traverse right along the ledge to a weakness provided by a whiteish-grey boulder. From here there are two options 1. follow the path of least resistance following Cliff Monster to the anchor (5.8) or 2. finish as for Bluto's Bluster (5.10) traversing steadily and continually from left to right along balcony rock finishing at the anchors above Bluto's Bluster. 

Start anywhere to the right of the small tree and stone block at the base of cliff, about 5 feet right of J. Wellington Wimpy. There are at least four variations to the start in the next 20 feet. The leftmost start is about 5.9, and the start gets easier as you go to the right. The rightmost start is about 5.6. Climb straight up to the brushy ledge about 30 feet up. Travel left along the ledge to the base of a blocky face about 15 feet wide. Climb up this face anywhere between the arête to the left and the pine tree to the right. It’s about 60 feet to the top.

Near the far left end of the cliff is a broken quartz vein trending up and right. Follow this up to a very blank shallow corner. Vigorous stemming will gain you the top.

To the right of Crown of Thorns is a jagged arete in black rock, just left of the white-streaked black rock. Climb this arete through a large, blocky left-facing overhanging corner. Staying right of the tree, climb the corner to the ledge high up.

Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Balcony Rock