King Conqueror ascends the beautiful crack running right up the middle of the rock.  The problem is a lot more overhanging than it looks and uses the crack a lot less than you might expect. The crux is a little inobvious but a lot of fun once you figure it out.  It is one of the best problems Flagstaff has to offer.

King Conqueror

Southwest Layback

Conquerer Traverse

Face Out

Face Out Traverse

Veasy

I put this route in here, because I do it all the time and find it a gas. It puts you on top of the rock if you can lead about .8. About 4' left of

King Conqueror

is another crack above the chalked up, upward pointing jug. Pull up to the jug and match hands then reach up with you right and find a great hand jam with a crimp in the crack. Get your feet under you, bring your left up and around the little boulder, and pull yourself over the top. The little boulder will rock a little but holds firm. Big, fun move for aspiring boulderers.

Start on the far right side on the arete and climb up the layback. Then hit the jug and reach far back over the top for another jug and top it out.

This problem traverses the King Conquerer boulder from left to right, finishing by pulling around the corner past the starting holds for Face Out.  The feet are good, and the holds are fairly positive, though extremely sharp.  The crux comes by trying to match on a very reachy gaston rail.

A v7 variation does the traverse, but finishes by climbing Face Out.

It seems that either you love this problem or you hate it.  Some people swoon over the overhanging crimpy moves, and some say it's the reason to hate Flagstaff.  I personally fall in with the swooning crowd.

With hard body tension moves on small crimps, this is my favorite line on the upper ridge.  Start on holds at about four feet high and make a long right hand reach to a sharp as hell crimp.  Pull with all your might and go straight up through two side pull crimps to a jug at the lip.  Does it get any better?

This climbs

King Conqueror Traverse

into

Face Out

. It is a superior finish to the standard traverse. Milking the hand jam rest helps.

It felt like solid V7 to me, but 7b

consensus on 8a.nu

, so let's start with the slash grade.

Description

Protection

Routes in King Conquerer