First pitch 5.9 second pitch is 5.10d, face and crack climbing.

And Now For Something Much Cleaner

You Nailed It

Lat Machine

Katnap

Katnip

Pinkpoint Panther

Hacking & Spitting

Fat Machine (variation)

Chipmunk Pancakes

His Spirit

Gravitron

Drill Sargeant

Men in Tights

Love of Jesus

Corporal Clinger

Pretty in Pink

Pretty Pink Fat (variation)

Family day

climb the big hold pink jugs up to the slab.  slabby but fun crux near top of slab. easier climbing to anchor

Start right of Love of Jesus following face and crack, a couple of great jambs here. After the second bolt move up and left to the third. Climb golden stone using square cut edges, jugs, and buckets up the steepening face. After the bulge the rock quality deteriorates but the bolts are plentiful and in solid rock. Fun.

Another Todd Graham classic.  Tackle the left side of the roof.  Shares first several bolts with Gravitron.  Pulling the roof direct and heading immediately right is the preferred line that checks in at .12a.

Pussing out by heading left to the arête to cop a no-hands rest is considered .11d and off route by gorge locals.

The route is now mostly equipped with chains thanks to Matt C.

This is a fun sunny warmup. I think it can be done with a 70 m rope if your careful. Tie a big knot in the end. Was great meeting you Kath and Sam

consistent 5.9 climbing most of the way. big edges on a vert wall lead to cracks and a perfect hand jam or two. lots of jugs lead up to the delicate, but fun finish at the last couple bolts.

This one is really good!

Technical, thin, off-vertical face climbing on good quality rock.

Start up Lat Machine, but at the 6th bolt move left following a weakness to the arete, from here continue up a clean face.

Because it's there, anyone?

And worth it.

First 25 feet is 4th/easy 5th. Shares anchors w/ Pretty in Pink.

This classic stamina route tackles the right-hand side of the roof sharing the first several bolts with Lat Machine.

Jug haul up to a lip encounter, then hold on for the sustained ride to the top.  Superb fitness route.

The route is now mostly equipped with chains thanks to Matt C.

Bolted hand crack leads to anchors under an overhang

If you are a badass putting 5.12s up on lead you can get away with wearing silly tights. Glad that trend was short lived, for the men anyway.

Pay close attention on the slippery start to avoid falling before the first bolt. A well protected crux at the second bolt leads to great, though sometimes small, edges up the clean wall. A short easier section with a bit less than perfect rock leads to a steep pumpy jug haul to the anchor.

Great edges, jugs, pockets and an undercling get you to the top of one of the best 10s in the Gorge

Beautiful pink face with great rock! Clean  edges and jugs  lead to a steeper bulge you can take left or right.  Move back and forth on the arete then finish with a thinner move( crux) near the top.

Fun variation to Pretty in Pink. Changes aspects and finishes on cleaner rock. Start on Pretty in pink then up high on the arête move right onto Fat Machine. A couple of shoulder length slings will help with drag. Nice to do a free TR run on Lat Machine or Fat Machine

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Supreme Wizard Formation