Alternate second pitch to the top of the formation. This is a way to climb past slow parties on P2 of Physical Graffiti. You can also make this a second pitch to Over the Hill to Grandmother's.

 Descend per Phys Graff or BBW.

In Through the Out Door

Lil' Red

Physical Graffiti

Big Bad Wolf

Over the Hill to Grandmother's House

The Woodsman

Town Dogs and Coyotes

Riding Hood

Physical Graffiti is an excellent crack climb for the beginning leader. Start near the left side of the Riding Hood Wall at the steep crack with big jugs around it.

 P1) Climb up the featured corner, passing a small roof, to a two-bolt anchor. 30 meters. (5.6)

 P2) Climb up and right into the crack (small gear), and jam it until the angle eases. Then run it out on easy terrain up and left to a two-bolt anchor. 60 meters. (5.6)

 Descent: Scramble left, then down the third class gully. Alternatively, rap off the west face, then downclimb the gully (tricky).

The following description was taken directly from the Falcon Guide by Todd Swain. 

  "This route starts about 40' right of the last climb at an obvious right-leaning crack. Climb a varnished area (crux) to reach the crack system. Follow the main crack system up and right until it goes around a corner into a gully. Variation: Move left from the main crack system into a prominent, vertical crack and follow that to the top." 

  This thing felt a good bit harder than 5.9 to me... but I think it was because there were a number of massive, loose blocks and the route was super chossy. This could be good if it was climbed more often and had some anchors at the top!

Another good route on the Riding Hood Wall. Over the Hill is the crack climb that pulls through a roof with black rock, right of Physical Graffiti. Many people only do the quality first pitch, and then rappel.

 P1) Make sure to protect the beginning moves well. This is the crux and the landing is not great. Pull through the roof crack with varnished rock. Continue up easier climbing to some slings in the crack for a belay.

 P2) Continue up the same crack system for a full rope length to the top.

 Descent: Rap off west to a gully, then downclimb the gully. Or, walk up hill to the left across some 2nd/3rd class ramps then drop into the gulley on the left and walk down with one short, easy, non exposed, 4th class section. 5-10 min.

5.10a, 2 Pitches, 2 Word NameBring a stick clip!The Woodsman killed the Big Bad Wolf. 3/21 - The route is finished, pretty rad to climb and it's not a squeeze job. 

Route is still being cleaned. There may be some loose rock

P1 135ft. Delicate moves through the fourth bolt leads to easy but fun moves on the slabby face. Follow bolts to belay ledge on left.

 P2 110 ft. Follow the seam on the left before a few moves on good crimps and jugs pulls you over the top.

 Walk off or rappel with 70m rope to P2 anchor and then straight off the sheer face to the left of the route.

High on the left side of the formation is a large, varnished corner. This is climbed in two or three pitches. 

  About 75 feet to the left around the corner and up from Physical Graffiti.

Riding Hood Wall has a few nice crack climbs on its north face.  This is one of the larger rock formations in the Calico Basin area.  One can descend any route by rapping off the west face, and then down climbing a steep gully.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Riding Hood Wall