I went through the proper channels and got approval to bolt this route from the Snow Canyon CAT Team (the group that approves/denies route development in Snow Canyon administered areas) back in 2017. I put up Makin Bacon and, with approval, bolted the old Ron Olevsky line Pearls Before Swine, but didn't have time to get to this and two routes to the right of it that I had approval for.

A few years later we found that someone had come back and bolted this and several other routes to the right of it without approval. On inspecting the work we found it was extremely shoddy and dangerous even. We contacted the Snow Canyon Park Manager (Kristen Comella) to ask her what she would like us to do about the route. She asked us to remove the bolts and patch the holes. Removing the bolts was scarily easy. Some of them pulled out by hand! And some of them (cobra bolts) had the cone put on backwards. Scary stuff.

I contacted Kristen again about the routes and received her approval to bolt the routes again and did so today (4-24-2021).

For future reference, if you are bolting in the extremely soft rock at Cougar Cliffs you should (1) go through the proper approval process and (2) use a 12mm bit (0.472441 inches) to drill your holes if you are using half inch bolts (which you should be using at least half inch bolts in this rock). The Desert Rat in St George sells 12mm bits for this reason.

Anyways, this (and the two routes to the right of it) are a fun little addition to the wall. Sorry to whoever went to the effort of putting these up in the first place. I did not mean to steal your thunder. But it is also really, really important that we stay in good with land managers in this area and go through the proper channels.

When Pigs Fly

Bud Hole

Petting the Pussycat

Pigsty

[Redacted]

Catatonic

Forsaken

Heaven's a Lie

Delusions of Grandeur

Bug's Boulder

Pearls Before Swine

Makin Bacon

Swine of a Rock

Going for the Throat

Indecent Exposure

Porca Miseria

Friday Evening with Friends

Arachnaphobia

Calvin Klein

Noodle Doodle

Eat the French

Sunday Afternoon w/ The Family

This is a short sport route on the entrance level of the

Cougar Cliffs

. A few drilled angles, jugs, and pockets identify this route.

This was the first established line in the area and a good climb with some character.

Starts inside a cave go feet first through a hole, toe hook the lip, and top out. Beta in the comments.

An awkward start leads to some friendlier climbing above.

Petting the Pussycat

follows the only crack of the tallest wall passing a good selection of bolts. The route climbs through jugs, cracks, and edges to a two bolt anchor. Rap the line here or continue past a few more bolts to another two bolt anchor and walk off or rap.

This is a short bolted route that climbs a steep varnished face on big horizontal holds. Steep and jugular with good flow.

A supposed elimination of geezers....most "old hands" will still be able to fight the good fight!

A very desperate, thin, and steep start through a scoop follows a right leaning crack to some bigger holds and a nice rest.  Steep, involved climbing finishes the route at a two bolt chain anchor. Nice and long,

Geezer Holocaust

is a the next best route to hop on after a few warm-ups.

Interpreted

: Bare and almost footless climbing past three bolts leads to a slow and steady ease of thickening holds and a growing selection of stances. Thin crimps and sucker holds decorate the crux, while vanishing feet on a mild traverse weaken and crumble.  If you can find a good sequence, heavy breathing and the chance of recovery come at the sixth bolt, rest up for the red point crux beneath the final headwall. Rough and Tough!! Come with an empty stomach.

You might find yourself

catatonic

after pulling the opening moves of this short thriller. This route hosts a sequential set of technical and tense movement using edges and smooth, rounded features. Clipping the bolts takes a little extra work.

The climb starts off on 5.10'ish terrain navigating a shallow roof, enters a crimpy and smooth face section (the crux), and finishes after a brawny and overhanging top section with big holds.

The route can be done as either 1 or 2 pitches. If done in one pitch a 70 m rope is required if the leader is going to be lowered to the ground.

This is the bolted line to the left of

Forsaken (5.11a)

. Like

Forsaken

, it can be done in one pitch, in which case a 70 m rope will be needed to lower the leader from the top anchor. Alternatively, fixed anchors on a large ledge halfway up can be used to divide the climb into 2 pitches.

The climb starts on an easy but fun face with varnished holds. The crux is gaining access to a thin crimpy face via some surprisingly awkward moves. The top of the climb is overhanging but with large holds.

Delusions of Grandeur

is a technical and sustained route climbing a line of edges, side pulls, and scoops.

Delusions of Grandeur

grabs your attention fast by demanding precision off the deck and strength through the remainder.

Starts on a double under cling, traverse right and go up to a really good hold. Grab an intermediate and bump up to the lip. Crux is getting to the lip.

4 Bolt route between Pigsty and Pearls Before Swine. Big jugs on a slightly overhanging wall to chains.

I went through the proper channels and got approval to bolt this route from the Snow Canyon CAT Team (the group that approves/denies route development in Snow Canyon administered areas) back in 2017. I put up Makin Bacon and, with approval, bolted the old Ron Olevsky line Pearls Before Swine, but didn't have time to get to this and two routes to the right of it that I had approval for.

A few years later we found that someone had come back and bolted this and several other routes to the right of it without approval. On inspecting the work we found it was extremely shoddy and dangerous even. We contacted the Snow Canyon Park Manager (Kristen Comella) to ask her what she would like us to do about the route. She asked us to remove the bolts and patch the holes. Removing the bolts was scarily easy. Some of them pulled out by hand! And some of them (cobra bolts) had the cone put on backwards. Scary stuff.

I contacted Kristen again about the routes and received her approval to bolt the routes again and did so today (4-24-2021).

For future reference, if you are bolting in the extremely soft rock at Cougar Cliffs you should (1) go through the proper approval process and (2) use a 12mm bit (0.472441 inches) to drill your holes if you are using half inch bolts (which you should be using at least half inch bolts in this rock). The Desert Rat in St George sells 12mm bits for this reason.

Anyways, this (and the routes to the left and right of it) are a fun little addition to the wall. Sorry to whoever went to the effort of putting these up in the first place. I did not mean to steal your thunder. But it is also really, really important that we stay in good with land managers in this area and go through the proper channels.

Amazing jug traverse right to start, then more good climbing left and up to finish.

It has three stars in the guidebook, so it must be great and when you're at the base looking up you see that it's invitingly steep with lots of features—perfect!

Then you get on it and quickly realize you've been sandbagged and that it's loose, steep but with chossy jugs and a hard-for-the-grade crux down low. Only worth doing for the full

Cougar Cliffs

experience. One generous star for the novelty of it all.

I went through the proper channels and got approval to bolt this route from the Snow Canyon CAT Team (the group that approves/denies route development in Snow Canyon administered areas) back in 2017. I put up Makin Bacon and, with approval, bolted the old Ron Olevsky line Pearls Before Swine, but didn't have time to get to this and two routes to the right of it that I had approval for.

A few years later we found that someone had come back and bolted this and several other routes to the right of it without approval. On inspecting the work we found it was extremely shoddy and dangerous even. We contacted the Snow Canyon Park Manager (Kristen Comella) to ask her what she would like us to do about the route. She asked us to remove the bolts and patch the holes. Removing the bolts was scarily easy. Some of them pulled out by hand! And some of them (cobra bolts) had the cone put on backwards. Scary stuff.

I contacted Kristen again about the routes and received her approval to bolt the routes again and did so today (4-24-2021).

For future reference, if you are bolting in the extremely soft rock at Cougar Cliffs you should (1) go through the proper approval process and (2) use a 12mm bit (0.472441 inches) to drill your holes if you are using half inch bolts (which you should be using at least half inch bolts in this rock). The Desert Rat in St George sells 12mm bits for this reason.

Anyways, this (and the two routes to the left of it) are a fun little addition to the wall. Sorry to whoever went to the effort of putting these up in the first place. I did not mean to steal your thunder. But it is also really, really important that we stay in good with land managers in this area and go through the proper channels.

Crux start *good landing* and I traversed left to the chains.

A very tricky test of balance starts the route off on crimps and sandy slopers. The climbing then leads to some delicate and fragile moves through a scoop and small roof. Longer than it looks.

Start on double under cling, traverse over the lip.

Techy start to fun overhang. Hike up the dome for TR access

A previously toproped route, that has now been equipped. Expect a crux at the start and easy going after first couple moves.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cougar Cliffs