Steep climbing on big holds leads to an easy arete.

Hamster Huey

Old Man Kangaroo

Hobbes

Fat Lipped Gofur

Bicolored Python Rock Snake

'Dillo Direct

Elephant's Child

Clyde

The Culling

Stumpy Tailed Kelpie

Tortoise Scute

Gooey Kablooie

Br'er Rabbit

Alan's Roof

Br'er Bear

Minnesota Gopher

The Flight

Curious George Goes Climbing

Calvin

Kermit's Corners

Labby

First Armadillo

Yellow Dog Dingo

Opus

Br'er Fox

Climb the first 3 bolts of

Calvin

, then follow the crack in the corner placing gear.  Bring a brush to help clean some of the dirt from loose rock removal.

The crux is probably the first overhang off the ground. Most of climb is easy with big holds. Several loose blocks were removed, so expect some dirt. Help out and bring a brush.

Gofur starts left of P1 of

Yellow Dog Dingo

. Climb the easy slab to the rib. Follow the bolts up the rib (5.8 thin). Pull right onto the shoulder that leads to the corner of the big roof. The lip of the roof has fat buckets: go for it.  Stand up above the roof & clip the double bolt anchor. Connecting to

Yellow Dog

P2 is easy from here, or lower off.

Pull through the bouldery start on good hands.  Long arms might help.  The hardest moves are low.  At the diagonal slot, step right onto the rib and finish on lower angle rock.

Play on TR between

First Armadillo

&

Bi-Colored Python Rock Snake

.  Several variations are possible.

Mount the overhang at the start ,then follow incredibly large holds above. The crux is a short traverse right out the large feature above.

P1. Climb a couple of moves to a large, diagonal ledge/gully. Go up the right wall onto 20 feet of vertical 5.7 climbing with fun, orangutang jugs to another ledge. Continue up to just under the juniper tree and the double bolt anchor. It's exposed 5.2 from here over & down (east) to the start of the rest of Other Critters.

P2. Climb right & behind the tree onto the buttress. Once established on the buttress above the tree, it's easy climbing & great views up to the double bolt anchor, 4 bolts, 50 feet. It's easy to reach P2 of

Yellow Dog Dingo

from here.

This shares an anchor with

Opus

.

Climb the left arete starting on the face with big moves, making your way to the corner just before the roof. Like other shorter routes, this climb may feel easier for boulderers - it is sort of a one move wonder but is still really fun and dynamic.

Start from the right margin of the

Bicolored Python Rock Snake

alcove. The climbing to the third bolt is very easy. The first crux is at bolt 4. At bolt 6, follow the left-leaning ramp. Buckets and good feet at the top crux keep the route at 5.7.

P1. Cruise the low angle start past the traverse. Move up & right through the steeper bit (5.7). Head up to the slot where buckets await. Continue up through easy climbing to the belay (2 bolts), 100'

P2. Head straight up the beautiful easy (5.5) tortoise shell slab to the belay at the overhang, 90'.

P3. Walk 60 feet West to the base of the third pitch. It works through the easiest part of the right side of the headwall (5.7-). While the start may appear steep, there are lots of positive features. Follow the bolts to the shared anchor with

Yellow Dog Dingo

.

It's also easy to walk to the base of the third pitch of

Yellow Dog

or Dance Hornpipes.

P1 & 2 can be combined with a 60 m rope.

Heel hook up and left to big holds then one brief, long reach. Follow easy rock to next overhang, which is easier than it looks.

Climb the left side of the concave feature, then follow bolts up and right.

Alan's Roof climbs a very steep overhang on largely excellent rock. It is thuggish but good and worth the scramble up if you are climbing at Other Critters or the Dog House. If you look for it, the roof is quite visible even from the road and is readily seen from Other Critters.

Climb steep rock on big holds. There was lots of lichen, bring a brush.

This climbs the pleasant face and large roof left of

Fat Lipped Gofur

. Big holds make the roof not too hard. Clipping the crux bolt over the roof is easiest if you purposefully Z-clip, then unclip the lower bolt. Use a mid-length draw on the bolt in the roof to reduce drag. This was named for my

alma mater

.

This is the steepest, middle, bolted line. Climb the big dynamic moves out the super exposed roof - big moves on good holds.

Climb steep rock on some of the biggest holds you will ever see! It has some big moves between big holds. This is something George would really like. As with

Br'er Bear

, bring a brush and help out.

Start with steep climbing on good holds, and finish on lower angle but smaller holds. Two big ledges mar the route, but it has lots of good climbing.

Trad lead (standard rack) or TR from the P1 anchor of

Yellow Dog Dingo

. Climb the small cracks and corners (easy 5.7) that start 6 feet left of

Fat Lipped Gofur

. Stay left of

Gofur

until the crack arcs right under the overhang. Cross

Gofur

and take the big, right-facing corner 15 feet to the

Yellow Dog Dingo

anchor.

After the initial bulge, follow bolts to the hump(h) 50 feet above.  The steep bit leads to a thinner move on lower angle rock above (5.9-).  Finish the last 25 feet to the double chain anchor and lower off.

From the left edge of the alcove, move up & a bit right onto the brick red face.  This section has lots of small features, some are positive.  Continue up to the notch.  Move up & right through the bulge.  Easier climbing leads to the chains on the double bolt anchor.

From the anchor, it's easy to reach the second pitch of

Tortoise Scute

.

Optional P0. Start in a clean reddish inside corner 70 feet. below most of the other routes. Push up to the top of the corner, clip the second bolt and exit the corner right. The little roof above is 5.8-, but can be avoided to the left. Easy climbing leads to the traverse ledge where most of the other climbs on Other Critters start.

P1. Start up the shoulder along or right of the shallow crack. Follow bolts up through steeper rock to an alcove. Climb the left side face, or up the back of the alcove. Exiting the alcove is the crux (5.7). Continue to the belay at the 2 bolt anchor.

P2. Follow the bolts up the easy slabs (5.5) to a second anchor.P3. Scramble 20 feet up and left into the corner where the rock is least steep. To stay at 5.7, avoid the Dance Hornpipes bolts above/slightly right of the belay. Climb up and right to get out from under the overhang and onto the beautiful easy headwall. Step right away from the corner that is the Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't variation. Climb the face heading towards the chain anchors. Clip a chain, then step right to the belay anchors.

P3 "Dance Horn Pipes Where You Shouldn't" alternate third pitch. Start slightly to the right from the anchor, and use the two bolts right of YDD's first two. Cross YDD at the 3 ft. ledge, then climb the giant, right-facing corner. Just before the corner deteriorates, move up & left onto the left wall. A full length sling here will reduce rope drag. Achieve the stance. Do the dance. It's exposed! Finish up through horizontally featured section (5.8) to the top. You'll need to pull all the way over the lip to reach the trad-style double bolt anchor.A new rappel anchor has been installed to climber's left (west) of the summit block. This is a much safer option than the scramble to reach the P3 anchors of Yellow Dog Dingo. The new anchor will land you at the P2 anchors of Yellow Dog Dingo; finish with the regular Yellow Dog Dingo rappel route. You won't be able to see if there's anyone at the P2 anchors while you're on the summit so yell loudly before you throw your rope.

Note that the placard signage by the last bolt of the route points to the old, still-existing, inconvenient trad-style anchor bolts on the summit block that you can't rap from, but can still use to bring up your follower. Alternately, you can walk off the top via the dirty, loose, thorn-filled gully to the west of the summit, between Safari and Live Action. The gully is not fun and has some exposed moves. Not recommended in poor weather but might be your best option if YDD is super crowded. Any pair of pitches can be combined. For P2 & P3 rope drag might be an issue.

Opus

is a two pitch climb parallel to

Clyde

.

P1 starts 20 feet left of

Yellow Dog Dingo

, just left of a large corner. The first 20 feet are vertical 5.6 with good hands and feet. Above, the route follows a shoulder to the left end of the Other Critters ledge.

P2 continues the ledge, scramble up to the large, right-facing corner to the left of

Minnesota Gopher

. Several interesting 5.7 balance moves will get you established up on the face with your left hand on the outside corner. Continue up the face with the only the hand on the corner until the feet run out. Pull easily left, and continue 15 fee to the chain anchor for

Clyde

.

Climb the right side of the concave feature up steep rock on BIG holds. Then follow easier rock to the same anchor as

Br'er Rabbit

. Quite fun!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Other Critters