This route goes up a buttress on the south (left) side of the wash going out to the Wonderland. This route is mostly protected by bolts, but take some gear, especially at the start. The buttress is before Ash Gordon, and Seargent Rock, and is the first large buttress on the left. Anchor on top.

Tits on the Bull

Standard Poodle Route

First Crack Left of Gardening At Night

Moose Baby

Previously Unreported Route

Red, White, and Boys

Ash Gordon

Climb a right-slanting crack, passing a wide section (4" piece handy) before it narrows and then dies out, and then continue on interesting face climbing (crux) past one bolt to the top. Gear belay and easy descent via the gully to the climber's right. One star out of five.

First crack system left of the Gardening At Night headwall crack.  I climbed it 10 years ago and can't remember anything about it.  It must have been unremarkable.

The east face of Ash Gordon Rock is split by numerous wide cracks/chimneys - but you won't have to like wide cracks to do this route. Located on the smooth face to the left of the wide cracks, with some identifying horizontal cracks in the lower portion of the face.

Face climbing past horizontals, some offering protection, as well as holds, lead to the upper, crux portion of the route, where a tightly bolted sequence of thin edges/crimps up a high-angle slab/face concludes the pitch. Gear belay and walk/scramble off via a number of ways. One star out of five.

Decent climbing right off the trail, on a formation that is typically ignored on the way to something further afield. The rating will change over time as the loose edges and flakes erode further.

My notes say "5.4 Girth Dependent".  For the chimney aficionados.

4 bolts to anchor. The route can be seen from Uncle Willies. Look for a brown face NE of Uncle Willies. Hike 5 minutes up a wash from Uncle Willies to this So. facing route. Not really on Ash Gordon formation, but close.

A contrived start leads to easy climbing along the slanting crack, up to an overhang.  Above the overhang, clean, tricky wide crack moves take you 20 feet to an exit lieback.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Ash Gordon Rock