Beach Boy

Penance

Blood Flower

Houseboy

Not Wide Enough

Thunderbolt

Wendigo

Honemeisters

Liturgy

Sun Glory

Booger Sugar

Slingin' Yayo

A Bit Worn Out

Big Bang

Star Crunch

Krokodili Dolaze

Hillbilly Sex Farm

Tongue Lashing

Snuffed Out Cat

Cousteau's Crux

Low Hanging Fruit

Blood Trail

Opium of the People

Mononucleosis

Eye Booger

Wasylisa

Swiss Roll

Choking hazard

Route with a Ranger

Spartacus

Scientific Paws

Zinger

Porter for Recorder

Holy Grail

Angle of Declination

Turn and Cough

Redneck Logic

Chopping Bloc

Pieyo Kury Pieyo

Odin's Eye Patch

Crackatoa

Unknown

Serial Driller

Crocodiles are Coming

Honey Badger

Flake and Bake

Hog Slaughter

Transgressions

Stumbling Dice

Billy Bass Crack

Hell Hound

Kirkules

Non Sequitur

Rock Opera

Derecho

The first route you will encounter on your righthand side if you take the Beach approach. The route starts at the top of a boulder and follows a leaning crack. The route is almost comically short, but it has some nice movement for a warm up or cool down (or a short jaunt if you're trying to pack in a bunch of pitches for your birthday).

I can't believe I keep climbing routes at long point that are this good. STICK CLIP the first bolt and start about 12 feet to the right. Climb up through the corner to a mega jug then get your techy traverse on. Once at the first bolt pull up through the sandpaper-like rock and use the finger lock with some good holds intermingled. Clip the second bolt and then make a few lock offs to the corner above then pull the roof onto the slab. The top of this thing gets runoff and can be quite dirty; all of the holds are there but can be hard to hold on to.

Beautiful white rock that has unreal texture. I think the crux is getting establish out the initial corner system. After that it has some easy climbing up to a few semi-long reaches between good holds. Ends under the big roof.

This is one of the best single-pitch crack routes I've done, and I'm surprised that it's not on here yet. As Mike says in the guidebook, this is the showpiece crack climb of the Lake Region, with flawless rock and lots of unique, complex movement. Thin fingers and good body position awareness helpful...

As with many routes that I post on MP, there is a story behind this one. As most climbers will know, we lost two shining lights this year; Inge Perkins and Hayden Kennedy. Hayden was a good friend to so many, and when we all saw how happy he and Inge were we were elated for them. A pivotal memory I have of the two of them is looking over during the finale performance of the best 80s cover band I've ever seen, playing Prince's "Purple Rain" at Zack and Tara's wedding. The rendition was unbelievable. At some point, dancing with my wife at the time, I nudged her and motioned with my head to look at Hayden and Inge. They were dancing and holding each other in a way that was a perfect illustrations of love, the epitome of innocence and tenderness.  Such a tragic loss. If you don't know about these two and their incredible lives, you would do well by yourself to find out who they were.

Well, Inge participated in the deepwater solo competition that was put on this past summer at the lake, on-sighting this route along the way to her victory. You can see a wonderful film about the event here;

https://www.climbing.com/videos/wild-and-wonderful-west-virginias-psicoroc-deep-water-soloing-competition/

From the conversations I've had with local folks who organized and participated in the event, Inge made a huge impression on the Fayetteville climbing community with her kind, wise and gentle nature, as well as her tenacity and undeniable climbing ability. When I decided to shoe up for this thing at the end of a long day, it was to try and honor and live up to the legacy that she and Hayden left for us. At every point on the route's semi-desperate stemming that I wanted to take or let go, I kept moving because I could recall Inge being on this route, taking it to the chains. As I made the final amazing moves out the roof to the anchor, I almost cried.

I knew Hayden far better than I did Inge. However, they were undoubtedly two of a kind. It meant a great deal to me to channel Hayden's laid-back approach with Inge's never-give-in attitude to send this thing first go. They were two Bodhisattvas, sent here to show us the way. Their lights burned fast and bright, and like the rays of those distant burned out stars in the night sky, it will take many years before the light fades...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtF6Jej8yb4

Short roof crack. Anchor is at the end of the side section but it looks like interesting climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Anyone know if this has been completed???

This fantastic, improbably steep route route ascends some more of the brilliant white stone of the Lakebed.

Start preclipped (I advise two bolts), and hop to a shelf. After a juggy traverse deposits you at the base of an arete, engage in a surprise crux section up this feature that ends with a wild drive-by dyno to snag a sharp-lipped jug. Traverse left here (Michael Boltin' branches right), clip bolt three, and then wander left over a bulge before coming back into the bolt line at bolt 4.

The next section looks blank, but fear not: a perfectly placed jug pocket allows relatively easy passage. Further steep hauling on good holds leads to one final big move, and then the anchors.

This route is a gem. Go do it.

We bolted this route from a boat and we will revisit it once the lake lowers.  The fist couple bolts are the crux.  Pull a little roof and enjoy the sustained climbing to the shared anchors of 665.  This route was named after Marshall Bailey.  He was a WV State Trooper that was shot and killed on August 28th, 2012.  This was just a small way to honor one of our fallen heroes.

A very nice route that goes up to an interesting crack. Great sun exposure all day.

A direct start (recommended) has two bolts going up a slab. The original start is to the right, up a crack.

Climb up to a ledge, then reach the crack system. Climb it to a corner under a roof, traverse left, and finish up the anchor.

The crux comes at you right after the first bolt. After that the climb lets up a good bit. It involves a long reach blindly and then placing your gear. After that follow the bolt line up the lichen covered slab past a few more bolts. Once at the top traverse over to sun glory's anchors.

Start in some cool (though sometimes silty) huecos.  The crux comes at the third bolt, when you encounter a bulge and the huecos disappear.  After the crux, it is enjoyable 5.9 jughauling to the top.

Another fantastic line out at long point. Start with some interesting balance moves up through the fat roll slopers to a small ledge. Climb up through the small corner system utilizing some hidden full pad edges up to the final corner system that wants to open you up like a barn door. Super fun and pretty easy for the grade.

Crux is at the bottom getting over the little roof between the first and second bolt.  Long reach to one pad rail.  Move off that to fun climbing above. Route was named after Eric Workman.  He is the WV State Trooper that was killed August 31, 2012.  He was a rock climber as well and this is just a small way to honor him.  His unit number was 665.

The business on this beaut is down low getting past the bolt. After that you can get in a few tcus throughout the small corner. Pull up through some horizontals and get ready for a final 11+ red point crux at the very top. Pull through this and then wander up the lichen covered crack and slab to the anchors. So so good.

A pretty decent climb that goes right up the prominent arete. The gear is a little sparse in places.

Start in the wide crack, and reach a ledge. Climb the prow straight up, reaching two cool mantle moves in a row.

There is no anchor, but it is possible to traverse right to the Wendigo anchors, or up to the trees at the cliff top. Don't forget to place a directional.

An easy climb with one hard move. Make a big jump or a static reach at the first bolt and enjoy the jug haul to the top.

A must do climb if you are on this side of the lake!  Probably light for the grade but the fun factor is very high.   Start at the base of the crack in the 10 foot high section of rotten rock to get a stance.  Plug some gear and figure out a way to reach the huge jug on the overhanging face and then pull through the bulge and gain another stance (crux).  From here, pull a small overhang and it's nothing but huge plated jugs to the top.  The gear is abundant throughout the entire climb.

Starts up a juggy right angling ramp, after this trend up the face to the left set of anchors.

Climb the first four bolt of "Crocodiles are Coming" then climb little to the right passing two more bolts. In the top, step left to the "Crocodiles are Coming" bolt anchor.

The first bolt is missing a hanger.   You can climb up the start of Tapeworm, 5.9 to the right and then traverse in left to join the climb below the second bolt.   After the traverse, climb up and make some reachy moves to a horizontal.  Head up and right aiming for the right edge of the arete near the top.   From the last bolt, figure out a good sequence to get up to the shuts and clip them (crux).

More excellent lakebed stone on this one. Start out on somewhat dirty rock, making large moves between small edges followed by a dynamic move just above the 2nd bolt. Alternatively, you can climb the easy corner crack a few feet to the right and traverse back in.

At the first roof, bear right and make another lengthy traverse back left to the fourth bolt. what follows is more 5.11 climbing, punctuated by a very distinct crux involving bad crimps, a mono-like crimp/pocket/slot, and the most comically bizarre feature you'll ever use on route.

Post crux, more 5.11 climbing on well featured stone leads to the anchors.

Seriously, this route is amazing. Plus, the namesake feature is one of the oddest, lewdest holds you'll see at the New. Do it!

Begins on a black jug-rail and progresses up and left into a slightly overhanging crack. The crack itself is best for gear as there are better holds on the left wall of the crack.  Once the angle retreats climb straight up the face on good holds to bolt anchor near the shrubs at the top.

Be careful with the rope that it doesn't get sucked into the crack.  There's a finger sized cam that can act as a directional just up and left of the crack.

Boulder problem crux followed by easy climbing. Bolt line left of Liturgy

Obvious corner crack, often dirty. William's guidebook has this at 8+, 1-star but it seems that grade only represents the crack portion. At the standing rest about 45-50ft up, the chimney and stemming moves are a bit more technical and delicate than an 8+ grade would warrant.  If this was cleaned up and an bolt anchor right under the lip, it would be one for people to come here for!

Sandbagged 12b's aren't just for Endless Wall! Very sustained, intricate, and beautiful route. Definitely height dependent with a final redpoint-crux pop at the very top.

Climb up through an ever engaging left leaning crack. The crux on this thing seems to be getting to the 4th bolt, mantle, or use some small holds and get up on it. After that either head to the right onto the slab or up and left to the big flake and then onto the slab. Good route and seems pretty soft for the grade.

This thing is great! It starts with some fun lay back moves to a small amount of easy finger jamming. After that you pull up to a good stance and figure out how to get up on the ledge. From there climb up the through the lichen covered slab to the anchors.

Begin in the white off-width and climb up the corner. You will encounter a singular bolt on the left that leads you up to the beginning of the heavily textured and juggy face. Continue up the face one of many ways until you reach a bolt anchor.

A great technical route that utilizes a wide range of climbing moves. The early crux requires balance and timing. The middle is almost requires bouldery movements. And the top is made easier if you can hand and foot jam. This route is a must do for the grade.

Short left angling ramp to the lichen covered face above. Crux is the lichen mess.

Start standing on a big Boulder boulder a bit to a jug clip a bolt an bust right, to the base of the crack. Get to dancing up the seam to a hard to clip bolt.  Get up to the roof and be granted a good rest. Pull the roof to Tackle some tricky white rock and make way to the anchors.   mike gives it a 12a  it’s a stout one.   Excellent moves and stone

This route will be good after two more people climb to knock back the crack. The 5.9+ grade takes into consideration the state that the route was in when the FA was established. Once cleaned up the route will likely be a 5.8 or 5.9-. Sling the tree to rap off or run it to the top and rap from there.

Handcrack on more great lake rock.  Ride the crack until the obvious ledge (beware of mini-fridge sized rock that wobbles).  Ride the left arcing crack another 15ft until a 2-bolt anchor.  Fun cool down climb for those who brought the rack down.

The crux is getting off the ground on this beautiful arete. Starting on the right side is 11d and the left side is around 11a. Both sides are fun and lead up to some interesting climbing up top.

It's 5.6 I have no idea where the crux is. Lichen covered jug after lichen covered jug.

Wow. Wow. Wow. This is a contender for best 5.11 in the area. The first two bolts were already there when Mikey finished it off, so don't judge him for those two. Well actually never mind that; judge him all day. The second bolt is pretty committing so be careful. After that make your way up the arete to the first boulder problem that utilizes perfectly placed feet, a sidepull and some CRIMPS! No worries though, jugs aren't that far away. From here dance your way up to a slabby area with a slap-you-in-the-face-if-5.11-is-your-limit-crux. Make a few more moves through some horizontals and pull the last roof to clip the chains. This route is wet at the top if it's rained a lot lately, but it's still doable. This is an absolute MUST DO and to me rivals every other 5.11 I have been on here. Beautiful rock, movement, goes to the top of the cliff, and the location couldn't get any better. If you want to know how the route got it's name go buy Mikey's book

here

.

Climb the white rock ramp up and mantle onto the slab. Clip the sketchy first bolt and step around onto the land of lichen. From here high step, crimp and split your way up through what seems to be a never ending forest of lichen. Make a committing move out over the top of the route with a lot of air under your feet and clip the anchors! Check out the view! This route could use a lot more traffic to clean it up some.

Ride the handcrack until it turns out and to the right. Follow it to obtain jugs for the traverse out left on to generous chicken heads/grippy nubs and the i m to  bolt ancher

The route starts on the left side of the face. Stick clipping is highly recommended because there is a difficult, technical boulder problem necessary to get to the high first bolt. After that initial crux, a dynamic move to the big hueco leads into a few bolts of very enjoyable mid-12 climbing.  Another crux comes trying to pull the roof.

I can't say I have seen better rock. Start with pulling on your rope (A0) until you get up and established on this beauty. Start with some interesting moves around the corner to the left and up. Utilize flat edge crimps mixed with sandpaper like rock until you are faced with some long moves to a classic NRG flat jug and sidepull/undercling. Use the holds just mentioned or find an alternative small crimp and go for it and figure out how to use all of the feet and get established up on a heinous micro crimp. Hold on, bust a move and clip the anchors.

Climb three bolts of moderate flake features into a cryptic and thin slab crux. A nice runout on easy climbing leads to another mini crux, a lip traverse, and a ledge to pull before the anchors. The top is a bit dirty right now but you have what you need. Suggest extending the last few draws to help with rope drag.

This route climbs like a sport route. Start on the face 50 ft. left of Non Sequitur on a hearty jug, continuously moving up and left through jugs, utilizing a few crimps and water groove features along the way aiming, for a horizontal seam at about half height. From here get out your guns and pump over the roof on some bulbous holds. From here, link weaknesses in the rock to the bolted anchors.

The climb is a broken crack system in the middle of Long Point. The anchors sit in a capped roof.

Begin under the cow formation and find your way up through crimps, high-steps and long reaches for average height people

The crux is the first 2 bolts and is pretty contrived. The upper section climbs pretty well and has some fun moves between a large variety and selection of holds.

First route that you encounter when you exit the corridor to get to the point base. Good route land accessible when the lake is full. Start on a rail, to a crack/rail system straight up. The line diverges left at bolt four to disks. Step right a couple of feet, fight the pump, and clip the anchors off a generous edge.

Another route at bolt 4 diverges right but does not appear to have anchors.

Left most sport climb? Big hole down low, then there's a stretch of brainy rock.

The book says that this is a 5.7, which it is not unless you lower from the first bolt. Otherwise it goes at about 5.9 with 2 bolts. A super fun line and I feel like the crux is going from the first to second bolt up at the very top.

Moderate sport route that has a bit of everything.

Start in a small dihedral and muscle off the ground. Traverse left to the base of the arete. Climb on the left side of the arete on dirt, lichen and more dirt passing one bolt at the top. Would be better if it was cleaner.

Look for the well bolted line left of "Opium of the People".  The route starts on a fin, then follows a overhanging thin seam (crux) and through a high roof.

Start by pulling the roof, then head up the crack above. There are 3 bolts on the upper face before the anchor.

Climb through the first two bolts on sketchy mud-covered holds until you are above the water line. From here work your up the arete utilizing a cool rock over onto the left face and some moves through crimps to an awkward roof. From here reach out right to a hold on the arete and bump to a jug. Pull around and up, clip the bolt and one last lock off leads to the anchors. Pretty fun and a good warmup for some of the harder routes around. I gave this route PG-13, because blowing the second clip would end with a climber on the ground and the rock through that section is fragile and covered in old dry mud.

This route is so rad! The gem of Long Point and a must do if you are in the area. There are a few tough parts but the meat of the climb is up high. Height helps quite a bit down low, but you may be cursing that height as you eat your knees with highsteps higher up.

Book says to begin in a right facing corner but seems to mainly be done starting on the slab to its left and traversing ~4ft right to gain the small arete/flake.  No substantial gear until a weakness in the rock begins about 15 ft up.   If you're creative and skilled enough you can "slot-clip" a nut that might protect a fall.  Once there plug a solid cam and continue up the crack system that trends up and slightly right, eventually giving way to really fun climbing and a though-provoking final 15 ft up lightening-white rock.  Fun climb if you have the rack.

This route is really a great route but is not good for people where 5.11 is their limit. Climb through some mud covered rock to some not so fun climbing. Clip the third bolt and then start looking for some gear placements, because without them you would come very close to the ground if you fell and the climbing is not that easy. This route seems pretty sustained but the spread out bolt job makes a lot of people shy away from it. It's pretty sustained but AFTER you clip the fourth bolt you get some very interesting and super fun moves through the small and sharp crimps. Clip the last bolt and then run about 15 feet to the anchors, for short people you are going to be in a spot to either crimp and high step or jump to a flat rail. Head to the chains and realize you won't ever do this thing again.

Make your way up licheny holds to the beautiful seam (don’t miss the crimp up and left). The next 30 feet are a dream of perfect finger pods with plenty of options on the face for feet. Thug out the roof using a perfect, albeit hard-to-see, pocket before finishing with a victory romp up easier terrain.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Long Point