Roaring Lion makes its way up Pigeon Stool Wall  in two pitches just right of Center.  Has nice south facing exposure.

Start climbing in the corner behind the large fir.  Follow a couple bolts up and left to go around the arete.  Follow bolts up the arete to a nice belay ledge. Two bolts and cable anchor.  Pitch two takes you up a short face with two bolts.  Then cover easy terrain up a small face with one bolt before the chain anchors.

Pitch 1 has the better climbing with Pitch 2 just a means to the top of the wall.

Roaring Lion

October Sky

Fiddler on the Roof

Crispy Crimpers

P1: Stroll past some lichen on questionable rock to a rightward traverse above a slab that wants to spit you. Equalize a fixed pin and 1/4" bolt then step across the gaping maw to a two bolt anchor. Don't forget to protect your follower.

P2: Clip fixed pin and traverse left into bushy crack. Follow arete to madrone tree for belay.

One of the better 5.9 trad routes on Erie with a sweet little roof and nice splitter continuing to the chains. Consistently good rock quality, grainier as you get higher up.

Most will belay and rappel from the chains at the ledge. Otherwise, continue onward up grubby slabs past a fixed pin, cam and bolt to another bolted rap station.

This is a fun face route on the upper left (west) section of Pigeon Stool Wall.  The Kloke guidebook lists it at 50 ft, but you'll be stretching a 60m to reach the tree anchor at the base if you rap in from the chains.

From the tree anchor, ascend the gully to the fir tree, then transition right onto the face.  Move up about 5-10 feet to reach the first bolt, then stay to the left bolt line on crimps (lower section) and blocks (upper section).  The right bolt line is for "Walkin' on Corn Flakes," and it's pretty close to this route, so err left.  Chains at the top; don't worry about the rust on the links, it's just cosmetic and the bolts are in great shape.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pigeon Stool Wall