One of the better routes at the crag, which is a measured compliment. The rock is solid, but a little dirty in places, and the slab before and after the roof can tend to be wet, which makes for excitement in the "5.9" micro-edging (which felt harder to me).

Climb up past the first bolt on stems and off-angled holds with pro overhead, then clip another one and make a funky, balance move with long stems and reaches to head up and left onto a very thin face.  Faith in your footwork is a must to get on the slab and no less necessary once on it.  If the face is damp, staying right might be slightly tougher, but dry at least.  Head up and left, then back right just before the roof, using slightly longer slings on the bolts to prevent drag.  A few more damp holds may be found in a steep dark area near the 2-bolt belay, but at least the climbing is juggy.

Continue up from that belay (stopping is optional) on more moderate climbing (5.8-) to the top of the rock and belay (again?). The finishing moves are on suspect looking puzzle-piece jugs that turned out to be surprisingly solid and fun.

There was plenty of rope left on our 70m after doing it as a single pitch, and a 60m would certainly reach.  a 50m might or might not.

To descend, scramble down and left to a bolt and chain anchor as for '

Left Side

' and rap 30m into the bottom of a gully, then walk back to the base of the climb on sloping terrian.

El Corazon Del Loco

Drop Your Cool, Tom Foolery

Left Side

This forced line follows the face to the left of "

Left Side

, 5.8".  There are a number of difficult clips for those under 6 foot, and the major of difficulties have easier climbing within 2-3 feet. This route does get good early morning winter sun, though.  Rap to the right looking down with a 60m rope.  Don't lower....

It is worth doing maybe once....

Left Side heads up an obvious crack system -- refer to the picture on the web site.  It starts on the left side of the rock, moves slightly right, and then heads up the center.  Can't get lost.

I'd say this has a crux or two in the 5.8 range, while the rest is easier.  The pro is excellent; the climbing is varied.  It's also a good, long pitch.

With the new bolted anchors -- both visible from the road --you can easily rap with two ropes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Roadside Rock