This route is made of 7 permadraws, some of which are shared with other routes.  PD 1 is the left permadraw on the wall to the right of A Walk With Kirky's first bolt. PD 2 is the 3rd permadraw of A Walk with Kirky. PD 3 and 4 are the two permadraws between A Walk with Kirky and Pay at the Pump. PDs 5 and 6 are the 5th and 6th permadraws of Pay at the Pump. Pull the roof above PD 6, clipping PD 7, and finishing at the anchors above.

Silverback Thruster

Siphon

Penelope Says So

Dinner with Dracula

Freeloader

Pay at the Pump

Turtle Man

Vanilla Sky

Lil Pump

Rock-About

Full Service Pump for Penelope

Monkey in the Mirror

Highway to Heaven

Pump Action Direct

A Walk with Kirky

The Bitchin' High Traverse

This is an extension of A Walk with Kirky. However, instead of lowering after the 6th PD, continue to traverse the entire wall...continuing past the roof wall on 7 more PDs. You never climb higher than 15'...however, you do climb 100', if not more on the traverse. The route finishes on the anchors to the right of the Turtle Man route. This route is pumpy! So keep ypur cool, keep breathing...as you exit under the roof, the wall starts to slightly overhang. The hand ledge across offers good holds though.

Start Pay at the Pump, clipping the first 4 bolts on the left face, moving onto the Pay at the Pump crack,  and clipping the first two permadraws. Pull the roof as you clip the two bolts and one permadraw. Top out or lower on this last permadraw.

Pulling the roof without skirting around the left side is the crux. Bolds 1-4 are on the left wall under the roof with 4 moving left. 5th bolt is one the roof. The permadraw is shared with Mexican Says So and Bitching High Traverse.

Powerful and crimpy. Crux is on from the deck until you hit the third bolt's ledge. This route is a bit reachy and requires some precise throws to crimps.

Tiny crimps and difficult feet make this route a really great onsight test piece at the grade. The crux is from bolt 2 to bolt 3. Find a rest and fight the pump to the anchors.

12 bolts (9 are permadraws), NO ANCHORS.

 Start on furthest wall you face approaching the area. Climb to large jug flake and traverse the entire roof. Pull the final boulder problem and top out. The FA of this route included the topout.

 Some say that each bolt is worthy of a different grade as you progress. Ratings range from 11b to 12b as you get further into the route.

  ***Below are the Pay at the Pump roof subroutes...1 of 8 subroutes. Clipping Each permadraw across is considered good enough for a route***

 Pay 3 (subroute of Pay at the Pump): 5:11c Start Penelope Says So to ledge, then get on roof crack (Pay at the Pump)...climb the first 3 roof permadraws. 4 bolts, 3 permadraws, lower on third

 Pay 4 (subroute of Pay at the Pump): 5:11c Start Penelope Says So to ledge, then get on roof crack (Pay at the Pump)...climb the first 4 roof permadraws. 4 bolts, 4 permadraws

 Pay 5 (subroute of Pay at the Pump): 5:11d Start Penelope Says So to ledge, then get on roof crack (Pay at the Pump)...climb the first 5 roof permadraws. 4 bolts, 5 permadraws

 Pay 6 (subroute of Pay at the Pump): 5:12a Start Penelope Says So to ledge, then get on roof crack (Pay at the Pump)...climb the first 6 roof permadraws.

 Pay 7 (subroute of Pay at the Pump): 5:12a Start Penelope Says So to ledge, then get on roof crack (Pay at the Pump)...climb the first 7 roof permadraws.

 Pay 8 (subroute of Pay at the Pump): 5:12b Start Penelope Says So to ledge, then get on roof crack (Pay at the Pump)...climb the first 8 roof permadraws.

Nice start on two friendly pockets. Bouldery crux moves get you past bolt three. Cruise to the anchors on mid-10 climbing.

Start in the middle of the roof on top of the large boulder.  A direct start from the ground is viable but friable holds make it less than idea.  Climb up the face to the roof and then start traversing on monster holds.  After the third perma look for a hand swallowing pocket jug in the roof and pull some fun thugish moves on big hold over the lip

Lil Pump is variation #1 to Pump Action Direct. Start on Vanilla Sky, and once at the 4th bolt, bust out into the roof on small holds to the cave on Pay at the Pump, then climb leftward and exit on Silverback Thruster. Similar in difficulty to Pump Action Direct. ESSKEETIT

Vanilla Sky to A Highway to Heaven. Start Vanilla Sky clipping the first bolt and 2 permadraws. Move right following 7 more permadraws of A Highway to Heaven to anchors.

Start Vanilla Sky and then head left and pull the crux of Silverback Thruster and reverse Pay at the Pump.

Starts Vanilla Sky and then heads left back-cleaning while advancing to the crux on Silverback Thruster. It then continues left for a body length on Pay at the Pump and pulls the crux on Siphon. After Siphon's roof continue left following perma-draws until the anchors on Penelope. First 2 bolts on Vanilla, then bolts 6 and 5 on Walk with Kirky, then Silverback's bolt 3, then Pay at the Pumps 3rd perma, then Siphon's first independent bolt, and then head left to the chains on Penelope.

A linkup. Start on the ground (not on the boulder you gumby) for Vanilla Sky and climb through the first 4 bolts. When you're on the big ledge at the 4th bolt, bust out left into the roof through some small holds until you reach the basketball-size hueco on Pay at the Pump. Shake out and then pull thru the vicious final crux of Pay at the Pump.  The FA of Pay at the Pump topped out the route, as did the FA of this route. If u don't top it out it doesn't count.

Starts on the dihedral on the left side of awesome roof. Climb up the good holds and flake system to dirty ledge. Make sure you clip in to a bolt on the way to hand ledge. Then follow the permadraws across. The climb traverses to the 6th permadraw and then lower. In guidebook, the "R" rating is for new leaders who may have trouble clipping this traverse, which could result in a 15' deck. Clipping the permadraws may feel awkward.

Do The Mexican Says So (Holladay wall), but don't clip the anchors. (Don't forget the low permadraw below the anchors.) Continue traversing up and onto the face above Awesome roof, clipping 4 more permadraws to finish on anchors just to the left of the small tree coming out of the face. Second to last permadraw is shared with Shiphon.

 Variation: Do it as a 2-pitch with The Mexican Says So as P1 anchors.

 Variation: Do Penolope Says So, whose permadraw is shared by The Mexican Says So and The Bitchin' High Traverse. After pulling the roof, don't clip the anchors but move onto The Bitchin' High Traverse.

Shady most of the day do to the big roof.    Probably the most impressive feature at the North Shore, if not all of Reimer's.  Consists of a giant horizontal roof with several perma-drawed traversing routes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Awesome Roof