Start matched on the farthest most jug on the obvious slopy rail, follow the two ovular huecos and go straight up the apex of the prow, top out on slab.

O Face

Snake Pit

Eye of the Beholder

Twilight Delight

Crack It

Fantasy Factory

Pimple

Rash

Wee Man

Black Face

Tufa Land

Gnarler

East Coast Special

Death Proof

Shindig

Knob Snob

Unknown

Uncerclings

Barely Legal

Elephant Man

Death Scream

Loc-Nar

Bouncy Chair

Thor's Hammer

Pippen's Pipe

Playmate

Hand of Doom

Sam's Oliphant

Shindig Ripple Variation

Proppa Dyno

Battletoads

Playmate of the Year

AKA:

Electric Fence

- A classic, old school problem similar to the popular Self Service in New Joe's. It is old school in that it starts sitting and tops out around 8 feet high. Shindig is classic in that the heel hooks, sloper slaps, and feet cutting loose moves are sooo good. It is steep and traverses a bit so there is more than 8 feet of climbing. Superior rock quality!

This problem starts low on crimps and climbs up right to a technical topout. Be careful to stay off of the boulder to the left to keep the problem at its grade.

Sick compression climbing! It starts sitting with a low lh side pull and a higher rh side pull. A couple HARD narrow compression moves leads to a big span to a lh hueco then jugs. I really enjoyed this one, great rock and moves.

Sit start on an undercling/sidepull jug and work up until you can bust up to some juggy knobs. climbs just right of the arete!

Sit start on side pulls. Climb up into a crack and follow to an easy topout.

One of the more incredible looking features you'll see and an enjoyable climb that will clean up nice with traffic. Start on right hand slopey crimp back near the base of the cliff line with foot on big sandy block a couple feet under the roof.   Very difficult and tensiony moves getting out of there and then you can ride a heel up through positive jugs and underclings.  Save some gas for an airy and delicate finish.  Low start to "O Face"

Stand start with both hands matched on a slopey sidepull/rail feature.

Use some very technical trickery to pull off the ground and stick a hard deadpoint to a big slopey edge. A few more tenuous moves lead to a somewhat tricky top out.

Without good beta, this can feel quite hard for the grade.

This sweet little vertical line will test your crimp strength and technique. At first glance, the holds seems obvious, but piecing them together in the right sequence proves to be trickier than expected.

Start with your left hand on an edge at 5 feet and your right on a slimper sidepull slightly higher and to the right. Attain the crimp above via some technical trickery and proceed onwards towards the lips via gastons and sloping edges.

A final committing move to the top caps off this stellar climb!

Small slightly overhanging black varnished face. Have you ever experienced crimping pain through the fingertips.. well this is the route! Sit start on small pockets/crimps climb straight up through small technical crimpers to an 'okay' mantel top out, add sand if you want extra spice for the follower. >;)

A short face with a sit start. Climb on pockets and like them all.

Right off the trail with a cool looking start.  It starts sitting on some opposing potato grips, typical for the area.  There are multiple ways of doing this.  Most commonly done as a low compression problem, or as a dynamic throw to the good left hand above.  Once you stick the good holds, continue up on big jugs to an easy mantle. A lowball but, surprisingly, a pretty fun little problem!

Climb a high face with holds that get bigger the higher you climb.

Starts low on a left and side pull and a right hand undercling. Bust out left to a good jug and then fire to the knob on the lip for an easy finish and maybe one point.

Inspired by terrible east coast low balls

How you feelin'? Strong, invincible, even young? How bout death proof. Begin dis kevlar skinned route up in tha same pod as fo' Proppa Dyno n' work right into tha undercling. Make big-ass moves ta lil' small-ass crimps, mantel n' bellow yo' death proof blow as you have survived this one!

Climb the giant right facing flake jug until it runs out. Make a move out left to a cobble stone and pocket. Surmount the bulge on cobbles.

A fun steep route in the same area as Shindig. Start left hand in a deep mono, right hand on a good flake. Work your way up the rail and out of the cave.

A nice warm up problem but it is too short.

Start matched on a slopey seam then work right to 2 good crimps at head height. Go right towards the big slopes and then top out. Tricky

Sit start.  Lieback your way up the sidepull flake.  Top out is a little spicier than Twilight without obvious jugs to grab.

Start on slopey edges. Move to a sharp crimp rail. Grab jug out right  without dabbing and top out on good edges.

Fun steep climbing to a mantle crux. Perfect rock.

Climb the on the good rock to the right of Gnarler until in deteriorates into ugly looking stuff.

Start under the roof matched on the jug rail as far back as you can. Do some fun and interesting roof climbing to gain the giant cinderblock sized sloper jug at head height. Take a breath, shake, and get psyched to finish up the amazing face with great moves the whole way. Classic!!

Oh, and the rock is absolutely bullet.

***Update- Refined beta involves going more direct bringing the grade down in the v7 range.

Stand start holding onto huge tufas. Climb straight up and mantle over the top of the boulder. Watch out for possible weak holds.

Spooky! Start low in the obvious slot jug and make some weird/hard moves to an airy top out.

Big, scary, and classic! The mantle at the top is not hard but it is very committing.

Fun problem, with a stellar view from high up the canyon. Climb through the elephant truck tufa to a little bit of a dirty top out.

Watch what you grab towards the last 5 feet, the hueco's are quite thin, and it looks like some breakage has happened recently. It would suck for a hold to blow while you're up there!

This variation to Shindig uses a perfect sloping ripple hold to climb straight up out of a pod. Keeping body tension as you escape the pod is the crux. Superior rock quality!

A beautiful vertical line of edges and sidepulls. Proppa Dyno climbs very smoothly, and has an awesome committing dynamic move near the top.

This is the Beautiful arete behind Playmate of the Year. It starts matched on the good hold on the right side of the arete, slap left hand around the corner and begin heel hooking. After the first 3 moves it heads right to a mailslot then the lip.

Holy boobs!

This problem starts sitting on opposing holds and makes a hard move to the boobs. After matching the boobs grab a smaller boob with lh and begin the crux right hand bumps. Easy lip encounter.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Perimeter