Beta break for spacklehead. Probably worth considering it as it’s own proboem. Sit start with easy feet and some fun, straightforward dynamic movement or alternatively some reachy, schisty static moves. Use the arete out to the left and an undercling to the right

Spackleft

Positive Contact

Spacklehead direct

Spacklehead

Movin' to CDH

Stache Traverse

Easy Street/downclimb

Start on the right side arete of the backside overhanging face of the spacklehead boulder. Follow the arete to the top trending slightly right to finish, and top out.

Sit start in the center of the face with low right sidepull and higher left hand. Move directly up the face to top out finish same as Spacklehead.

Start on the lower left edge of the seam on the back, slightly overhanging face on the backside or the spacklehead boulder. Move up and slightly right on the face using small crimps and edges, top out. Stay on the face, right arete is off. No harder than V3 with good beta. Consider giving the crimps a brush, it makes a difference.

The start is only PG-13 if you don't have a spotter and the difficulty is above your pay grade. The start is on the overhanging blocky backside of the spacklehead boulder facing the river. Start with a juggy looking but just ok undercling for a left hand and a juggy full right hand pocket. Use a couple burly moves to go out left and eventually reach the crack that begins in the upper left of the alcove. Follow this crack and easy climbing to the top of the boulder. For a spicy R-rated finish (still easy though), once you turn the corner left onto the face, follow good holds up the arete until it slopes out then trend left for the last couple feet.

Start as for spacklehead but follow the seam up and right around the corner to the slabby featured face and follow the features up to top out.

Easiest route on the spacklehead boulder and the best way to get off of the top.

The highly featured large boulder with intersecting cracks that traverse around faces. Landings vary depending on which face you are on. On the NE face of the boulder you can see an old railroad tie pounded into the rock at the top. This was placed by climbers in the 70's and was regularly used as a top rope anchor. As recently as the early 2000's it was still being used albeit backed up with a cam. Railroad spikes were made with carbon steel or worse iron...needless to say this "anchor" should serve as a historical relic and nothing more as it is likely highly corroded and untrustworthy. Anyways the faces worth climbing are well protectable by today's bouldering standards. Several ways to down climb, all a bit sketch but not too bad.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spacklehead Boulder