While its not the most inspiring line to look at, it is a really fun route. Start off on an easy 5.10 sequence that leads to a couple bolts of 5.8 climbing. Once you reach the end of an obvious flake, the climbing starts to be more cerebral, then physical as you reach the overhang. A good amount of bolts and good rock where it counts make this route easy to enjoy. The 5.12 crux at the top is well worth the journey.

Silly Puddy

Pure Sugar

Dimension of Love

Capacity Tenacity

Kibbles 'n Bits

The Next Episode

The Wind Cries Alex

Star Crunch

A Little Seduction

Breathing in Aether

Meow Mix

This route starts at the finish anchors of Capacity Tenacity. Climb out of the dihedral and make your way up the slab towards the head wall. Find the crimp on the face to get a difficult clip at the base of the head wall. The crux is right off the deck with a powerful move to a jug sidepull. After pulling this move enjoy some fun 10+ face climbing with a unique sequence to the anchors.

Scramble up ledges and large huecos for the first few bolts. From the 4th bolt, the meat of the route features flowy climbing on great stone. After pulling a bulge up high, finish in a corner crack where the route merges with the aid line, A Little Dementia.

Capacity Tenacity is located near the center of the Puddy's Tower Wall in the The Monument area at Smith Rock. The route climbs to the right of the large 'cheater stone'.    Start with a couple bouldery moves to the first bolt, then climb right underclinging the small roof. Move around the roof to start laybacking the crack until reaching the sixth bolt. After clipping the sixth bolt take advantage of the rest jugs. Immediately after clipping the seventh bolt move left onto the face and meet the first crux of the climb. Bump left on the small crimps and keep your feet on the wall! After making it past the first crux enjoy a nice rest jug and climb out left again into a double gaston redpoint crux. Clip the tenth bolt and enjoy a no hands rest. Climb right through some desperate reachy moves and finish the climb on a semi-chossy slab.

Short line of jugs that finishes in a corner/roof. A nice alternative to the easy routes next door on the Monument.

Start off on the left of the two 5.8 routes and continues past the first set of anchors. Work some magic to find a sequence to get established on the overhang, and fight the pump through these stacked cruxes. Don't forget the finale above the 2nd anchor, another hard 5.12 crux guards the finish.

Start out on the left side of the conveniently placed large cheater stone. Climb through the first 4 bolts of easier climbing clearing an easy lower roof section and a fun technical section between the first and second roof. The route starts to turn on a bit with the crux lying just at/above the second roof. Clear the crux and enjoy the next 5 bolts of fun climbing on good to OK holds up to the anchors.

Star Crunch is left of a big block located directly in the center of the Puddy's Tower Wall, in the The Monument area at Smith Rock. Start on crunchy huecos.  bouldery move to good rest at small ledge.  Climb up small slab, to good holds under small roof, move left and climb sustained face to chains.

This four bolt beauty is unlike any other at Smith, for the wall is of polished tuff. The wall itself is completely smooth and incredibly hard to smear on.    The climbing starts out on good holds and then you're immediately hit with a mini crux about 10' up on small holds (Stick clip suggested).. A finicky traverse left gets you to the jug for a full rest. Ride the diagonal crack system of good holds up and right while walking your feet up the small horizontal cracks.    The crux is located between bolt 2 and 3, while riding seemingly far out right, you immediately traverse back left to clip on good holds.    After a good shake, climb to bolt 4 on small holds and deal with a potential tough clip (helps to be taller). After bolt 4, keep climbing through the redpoint crux to the anchors.

Breathing in Aether is located directly in the center of the Puddy's Tower Wall in the The Monument area at Smith Rock. The route starts out over conveniently placed cheater stones laying at the base of the wall. While the first 10' of climbing is somewhat crumbly, the rest of the climbing that lies above is totally worth the effort.

 Start out up on the big cheater stones directly below the route. A left hand undercling and a right hand jug crimp are keys to getting started. Establish yourself onto the wall and follow the trail of heavily cleaned hand holds up to where the good rock begins. Clip through the first 4 closely spaced bolts and start to work your way into the really fun climbing. After clearing the beginning bulge feature, climb over a slightly overhung section. Once established over the small overhung feature, delicately maneuver up and around a seemingly blank arête. Style your way through the lower arête section, working through a detachment in the feature. Maneuver through the smeary section of detached rock, reestablishing yourself onto another arête lying just above. From here, you are met with the crux of the route. Clip from the jug at the base of the arête. Some small crimps on the face and good finger locks in the dihedral crack unlock this fun sequence. Once you're through the crux, lay back your way on jugs up to a traverse section lying just above the arête. After you have made the traverse left, start moving upwards. Clear the last little crimpy section of climbing leading to fixed steel anchors.

The pitch continuing above Kibbles 'n Bits. Step around the roof and face a brief crux, then a hard traverse leftward and follow good edges up to the anchor.For the Full Meow Mix experience, continue past the anchor for 2 more bolts on a vertical wall with sparse holds. 100 feet, 5.12c/d. This is the shared finish with the direct line, The Next Episode.

Puddy's Tower is the located in the Monument area at Smith Rock State Park. It's the tower that sits climbers' left of The Monument.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (6) Puddy's Tower