Broken rock band leads up to a good handcrack, then up the arete and off.

Tea Cup Arete

Layaway Plan

Homie Don't Play That (AKA Birthday Boy)

Sex Talk

Mr. Clean

Homie climber

Prickly Pear

Teacup

Final Exit

Repeat After Me

Pablo

High Anxiety

Crack Pot

Full Cavity Search

Brush Hog

Stole Your Face

Blank Check

Starter Marriage

Steep sustained climbing on thin edges.  A well protected sport climb along the edge of an arete.  Crux is past the last bolt.  A few layback moves can be made using the holds on the arete.

(Edited to reflect commentator views.) A clean, and very steep 5.6 crack/face climb using the crack for protection for the first 30 ft.  The rock is solid "for first 30 ft"(with the exception of a hold 5 Ft off the deck) and protects easily for the first 30 ft.  Not a great climb to learn Trad on even though it has a 5.6 rating.  The easier (<5.5), but chossy dirty ledge climbing at the top is more difficult to protect.  The crux is about 10 feet off the ground.  Protect early to avoid sliding down the slab at the base.  Note-one of the first holds starting out the climb is getting loose and may fall off soon.  Use caution.

Climb the face to a roof to find a finger crack above.

Mr. Clean is just that, clean.  This corner protects well with good movement for 50 feet and then comes a fun little roof.  This was actually my first trad lead and I still can't get enough of it, absolutely one of my favorite routes in the Refuge.

Face route between Starter and Homie don't play that aka birthday boy, TR then lead between belays for Russell Hoopers project

Great face climb left of high anxiety. Originally toproped while Russell was taking a break. Route went effortlessly and placements were made on the toprope lap to see if it would go on pro.

Starts the same as Teacup Arete but instead of breaking left toward the bolt, take the more natural line straight up through the chimneys.

Climbs the right between High Anxiety and Repeat After Me. Sustained and technical.

Crux is last roof.  Three roofs in total.  PG 13 rating only because of the start. The finishing bolt is way off to the left; better to just skip it.

Short face climb into an overhanging hand crack.

The main route at Lower Scott, start on either side of the arete to gain great pro and climbing.  Head straight up the crack and pull around a slight bulge for the crux.  Continue up to Anchors on a good ledge.

The crux is the second roof of Repeat After Me.  Awesome hands deep in the crack. Watch for loose rock, and the dead bush in the crack 2/3 up. Top rope set up good for Crack Pot and Repeat After Me.

Climb the dihedral through a small roof. Beware of several loose blocks when placing pro and looking for holds. Definitely looks easier from the ground than what it is.

Start just left of Mr. Clean at the base of a thin R-facing corner. 

  Fifteen feet of easy climbing gains a point where the wall obviously steepens.  Reach out left, around the corner, to place a 1.5" cam with a long sling, the only bomber pro before the crux.  A really good red alien can be placed in a shallow slot in the left wall of the dihedral, but getting this placement with standard-width cams would be difficult.   

  Technical stemming and lieback moves (crux) gain a roof at mid-height.  Turn this on the left and cruise up easier ground to an excellent hand crack finish.

Climbs the arete just to the right of Mr. Clean past 5 bolts.

This is the dihedral left of Birthday Boy. The route starts out with normal dihedral cracks for a few feet and then about 10 feet of a chimney which is about a body width wide and deep. The chimney spits you out and you pull up onto a small ledge about half way up the route. Watch out for the Bull Nettle plant that will irritate your skin if you come into contact. The hard stuff is over and you can cruise up to the top placing gear as you feel the need. No anchors, but plenty of gear placements for a trad anchor.

Hosting several bolted face climbs, an incredible 5.8+ dihedral, and a few more popular crack lines. Climbs at the Lower area are longer than those at the Upper area, so youll get more time on the wall. The walls here get morning and mid-day sun with shade in the afternoon. Usually the wind is less here than at the Upper area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Mount Scott