Six bolts placed on the best quality rock avaible along this line, which creates some need for runners.  The moves are fun and end at the same anchor as "Maguilla Gorilla."

Lucy in the Sky

Gorillas in the Crack

Goodall Times

And on the Third Day he Bolted

Monkey Do

The Great Ape Escape

Curious George

Colobus Crack

Grape Ape

Monkey See

Maguilla Gorilla

Rampage

Primate Primer

Baby Gorillas are Cute

Monkey Bumps

Cordyceps on the Brain

Boris Ascends Again

Climbers in the Mist

Silverback

Ape Factor

An excellent long crack with finger to fist-width that often requires lie-backing.

This route begins in an easy off-width, then a reachy move right (protected by a bolt) gets you into the main finger crack that leads to shuts.

After 2 days of projecting an overhung tips crack somewhere in the Jungle, we had to have a talk.  Our skin was fried, our muscles devastated, and our ibuprofen supplies depleted, we realized we needed an easy day.  This was our solution.  Climb the first 2 bolts of Silverback, place a cam in the bottom of the dihedral with a 4 foot runner, then cut left to a crack splitting the head wall.  Several feet cuts, and awesome heel hook, and even a sloper make for some fun moves.

This mixed route starts in the dihedral to the right of Primate Primer. Pull through a small roof to a ledge. Continue past three bolts protecting fun moves and the crux which is an committing move to gain a stance. Ten more feet get you to chain anchors. I would have placed the anchors higher to allow about 10 more feet of moderate climbing but rock quality prevented this.

This sport crack/face has it's crux at the start.  The thin crack opens periodically for finger jambs. At the sixth bolt with the gray hanger, you may opt to go left to a lie-backing flake where large cams are needed, or go straight up to bolt and difficult face climbing.  Both options lead to the same anchor.

This long and superb crack begins on "Gorillas in the Crack" for the first few moves before moving right up onto a ramp.  Moving right and up past four bolts, reach a tough but do-able crack to chains.

Like the Colobus Monkey, this

black and white

crack is nicer than it looks. Not nearly as funky as it's namesake, this well protected line climbs fast and smooth. Follow the constricting break up and left to a chain anchor. Good moves and good protection.

Start directly right of

Baby Gorillas are Cute

in a large, tapering crack. Fun and surprising movement.

A fun and diverse crack on the left side of a face. Begin climbing a 10 foot hand crack to a shallow dihedral. Fun and easy to protect, this route eases off as you work your way higher. Fun movement with nice rests.

The cruxes are just off the first bolt and just above the last bolt.

This route has its crux at the first bolt where the rock is not as good as could be.  The rest of the route is exceptional 5.9 moves on great rock.  Climb past five bolts to anchors.

A thin and varied crack up a short, steep face. Begin on the right side of the wall, follow a staggering crack to a two-bolt anchor. Good gear with a few nice rests, varied and interesting climbing.

This is a stemming problem in a right-facing dihedral.  Feet are most often on opposite faces and the crack is used primarily for protection.

This route is a bolted face in a talus shoot.

Easy face past 3 bolts to fun crack with diversity of moves including chimneying.

A short but sweet off-width/fist crack leads to jug hauling to the top. Traverse left to the last bolt of Ape Factor and continue up to the anchor.

A sequency face with the crux near the last bolt.

This is an especially strenuous crack that requires some off-width technique near the top.

A varied line with a distinct face crux, Silverback follows a set of cracks interrupted by a 15' golden shield peppered with diagonal slits. It has the great honor of being the (almost) 100th route at the Jungle, the tallest at the Upper Jungle, and an mild obsession of mine since I first visited the place and spotted the shield.

Extract yourself from a prickly bush and follow a thin dihedral crack to a bolt. Leave the relative safety of the corner to mantle a shelf and find yourself face to face with the intimidating shield. Clip a second bolt and cast off through a series of powerful sidepulls and highsteps culminating in a committing throw. Take a quick breath, sink a couple of pieces and commit to a few more thin moves to gain a laser-cut crack and the first decent feet in a while.

The theme of the adventure changes to hand jams, fist jams and the occasional lieback or face move up the rapidly expanding crack.

The protection in the last 30' is adequate but not straightforward as the crack is formed on the right side by a pile of blocks that would make any sea stack off the coast of England pale in shame. Some cams need to go in deep to reach good pods. We cleaned the crack as well as we could but sanitizing it would require sending the whole pillar down. Tread lightly, keep your eyes peeled for feet on the solid left face and treat the holds on the pillar to your right as possible traitors.

This is a pumpy, meandering crack/face sport route to chains.  The first crack moves are the crux but can be protected by clipping bolts to alternate start straight up to face climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Jungle