Brinton's is perhaps the most classic among the many classic moderates at Devil's Lake. The elegance of the line, the interesting moves, and the exposure are unmatched.  

  Follow the main weakness on the left edge of the buttress. This will take you to a cramped alcove. From here, traverse to the right across good footholds, but miserable hand holds. Many consider this the crux. Protection for the traverse is "adequate."  

  After the traverse, climb straight up a short jam crack (crux #2) to a blocky, airy finish.  

Brinton's Crack

Berkeley

Chicago

Puff N' Grunt Chimney

Rococo Variations

Sheep Thrills

South Side

Chiaroscuro

Golf Road

Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H)

Cheap Thrills

Evanston Township Direct

Evanston Township

Rubberman

Brinton's Corner

Stool Pigeon

Brinton's Direct

Brinton's Direct is an excellent variation to the mega-classic Brinton's Crack. Rather than traversing right at the alcove (a la Brinton's Crack), Brinton's Direct forges a bold path straight up the face. These tenuous and airy moves lead directly (hence the name) to the top of the buttress.  

  On lead, the climb protects fairly well, but it's just run-out enough to give it that unique Devil's Lake feel. All in all, The Direct is a very worthwhile route on one of the best chunks of stone in the park.  

This route shares the same start as Chicago but traverses right below the triangular niche.  After traversing right the crux comes when pulling back to the left on some steeper terrain.  The route finishes in a chimney/gully to the right of Chicago's  finish.  A classic.

Chicago is an old school bold lead that has been tamed significantly by the advent of spring loaded cams and better small gear.  Start up the crack system with good gear options on the beautiful vertical face.  Essentially the same start as Berkely, although perhaps a touch left.  At around 20 feet you come to a perfect triangular niche.  The crux of the climb is exiting this niche.  Once you commit to the moves to take you above the niche, a few more insecure moves deposit you high up on the wall where you can breathe a sigh of relief and take in the scenery.

Start in corner just left of Chicago.  Climb through crux to easier terrain mid-route.  Enter fun chimney using chock-stones along the way for handholds and protection.  An overlooked but enjoyable route. 2.5 stars.

The is a fun route that can be completed using the same anchor as Berkeley.

Start up Cheap Thrills from the top of the lower slab and work layback moves to half way ledge of Chiaroscuro..... then pull that routes excellent upper moves.  Combo route!

Southside climbs the face between Berkeley and Chicago.  A bit of a squeeze job, but an enjoyable climb none the less. The crux begins at a small overhang 5 feet right of the niche in Chicago.  The line runs pretty much strait up and down from this spot.  There is sufficient rest after the crux, but another tricky spot near the top.

An element in art, chiaroscuro (Italian for lightdark) is defined as a bold contrast between light and dark.(wikipedia)  Chiaroscuro a delicate thin face climb lies in sharp contrast to the thuggish crack-climbing of Brinton's, its neighbor to the left.

Begin on the platform below Puff N' Grunt Chimney, left of Evanston Township.  Climb about 20 feet of highly technical and thin face moves to a small roof, avoiding holds on Evanston Township or the left chimney.  Pull a small roof and climb an easy top-out.  Hard for the grade.

The H links the cruxes of both Chiaroscuro and Brinton's Direct. 

  Start on Chiaroscuro and climb up the steep, thin wall, past the undercling crux to the point where the Brinton's traverse cuts across the wall. From here, move left (effectively reversing the traverse) to the rectangular niche. It is possible to find an average rest here.  

  Now, launch into the upper crux of Brinton's Direct. The climbing here is quite pumpy and tricky, and with the pump gained from the lower climbing, certainly feels 5.10.  

  This link up is quite sustained and is the hardest way up this face.

Cheap Thrills is a former aid line freed by Pete Cleveland (imagine that). It follows the impressive step face right of Britons Crack. 

  Also of note is Cheap Swill by Rich Bechler(do Cheap Thrills and at top traverse to right for more hard climbing). 

Thin crack left of Chicago - direct start using the face only, the regular route(10b) starts on a platform 10 feet of the ground. Left side of dihedral is off. Contrived, but good movement.

Climb up ledges to the left of Chicago (start of 5.6 chimney). As ledges end, move on to the face following the finger crack left of Chicago.

Perhaps the most "doable" of the Devil's Lake 5.13's, Rubberman is a deserved neo-classic. The wall is quite steep by DL standards and the moves feel more sport-like than the other vertical crimping nightmares (like Ice) found in the in the park. 

  Locate the steep wall left of Boy Scout. The climb starts out with a very difficult and strange mantle move. Start on the jug, and move left hand up to a two finger crimp. Perch your right foot on the jug and reach right hand to a gaston at full extension. Once stabilized, match your left hand to the right, catching the gaston as a sidepul and checking the violent swing. This sequence is probably about V8, though it is difficult to grade such a circus move.  

  From here, fun, pumpy and still hard climbing continues to the top. This top section feels like hard 5.12. The right corner is off, though it doesn't seem that tempting.

Climb corner all the way to the top, avoid reaching too far right and using Brinton's crack.

Stool Pidgeon climbs the face just to the left of the buttress corner. Initial unprotected 20 feet of 5.9 (bad fall potential) leads to a crack system with very cool and varied 5.8 climbing. Stuff pro in the last horizontal seam and commit to a 5.11 face with tricky moves and a 30 foot fall potential. Long and airy route.  

  The 2nd edition of Swartling's "Climber's guide to Devil's Lake" rates the route 5.11b, which I think is correct. The latest 3rd edition rates it 5.10b, which is probably a typo 'cause the crux face is harder than Thoroughfare.

Brinton's Buttress could be considered the crown jewel of the East Rampart.  The buttress contains many high-quality climbs and is perhaps the most heavily visited formation on the East Bluff.  Rubberman (5.13b), arguably the hardest climb at the Lake is located at the eastern end of the buttress, Brinton's Crack (5.6) is found on its southern face, and Berkeley (5.6) sits amongst other great climbs on the west face.

Description

Protection

Routes in 07: Brinton's Buttress