Stick clip and traverse hard right to gain this long water-streaked arete. Back-clean or extend the first draw after clipping the second to reduce rope drag.

Hematopoiesis

The Warrior's Path

One-Armed Bandit

Cindarella

Hot Fudge Sunday

Unknown Road

Abby Gabby Goo

Trouble in Paradise

Hoosierheights.com

Flavor of the Week: McMoose Knuckle

Captain Blonde Sinks The Ship

Winona

Bangers and Mash

The Last Slow Draw

Oink! Oink!

Flying Serpents

Renegade

Surfing the Whale's Back

Hijacked Project

Tao Bato

The First Fast Draw

Stealing Melinda

Gym Jones Approved

Lula Mae

Armed Insurrection

Lucy Goosey

Son of a Wanted Man

Glide

Gorilla

Tanduay Time

Haggis, Neeps and Taties

Sweet Tater

Start off a boulder in good holds but no feet due to the undercut roof start but never fear, good crimps allow you to get established and get feet up. Crank great holds on steep rock as you head up the wall. A bulge midway serves up some additional cruxy moves. But it's not over yet. Fight the pump clock on more nice pockets and edges to the anchors.

Right of Hijacked Project, off vert leads to a shutdown crux about 2/3rds of the way up, make the run to the chains on unique moves up a rail and water groove. Originally bolted in 2009.

This fun little route shares its opening moves with Captain Blondie before breaking right onto the arete and climbing the face above.

Start in a shallow, right facing dihedral. Boulder to the horizontal, then romp up the easy face above.

A stick clip is MANDATORY for this route- the '5.9' grade is what the book calls this route, but the start is hard 5.10- certainly as hard as Armed Insurrection.

Glue-in bolt route left of “Glide”. Questionable rock quality.

Climb up the face making technical and balancy moves on small holds and slopers to jugs at the top.

There is a hardish move getting off the ground to ok climbing. The route ends on a decent ledge, plenty of room for a couple people to stand on it. This makes it a good route to teach people to clean routes while being able to observe and double check their setup.

Heads up the left side of the small amphitheater. Watch out for chossy rock.

Fun roof climbing. Start on the right side of a boulder and work left out to the first bolt. Jug up the steep face to the roof, using a sling or two to extend the bolt under the roof to avoid bad rope drag. Pull the crux roof with a hidden hold amidst slopers. After a nice rest, pull over a less intense roof, shake, and continue up steep climbing on good holds to the chains.

One of the best lines at The Boneyard, Capt Blonde climbs a nice line of overhanging jugs & pockets.  This route makes for a good warmup, but its harder than it looks, with big pumpy moves.  One of the steeper 5.11s around, this route will keep you on your toes.

Begin with easy moves up the left side of the arete.  Around the 3rd bolt, veer left towards the steep wave (the 5.9 breaks right here).  Pumpy moves between rounded ledges lead up & up.  Head right, around the subtle arete, when the angle kicks back.

Despite the mild grade, this might not be the best beginner lead.

Yard up the initial crack section into the cave. Try to find some good protection in good rock, and then exit the cave via the chubby, hollow-sounding flake on the right side. Keep your eyes peeled for stopper placements as you pull through the final, steep face to bolted anchors.

Climb up to the ledge and traverse right to clip the first bolt.  Find a hidden hold to get past the first bolt and then bust out a move to get past the third and onto a ledge. Rest up and contemplate the rest of the route. Climb some slopey moves to reach jugs just left of a vertical rib. The last couple bolt lengths often get people.

The route is varied and throws in some interesting movement throughout. Crux is somewhere around the 5th bolt (I think). Its a tough onsight.

This route has gotten mixed reviews, either its hated or loved. It looks a bit run out in sections but the falls are clean. The crux is pretty high, just after a small pod where it is possible to get a very unique no hands rest. From there do long moves up to the last bolt and anchors

If you've ever been thugging on steep RRG jugs and thought to yourself, "Man, this would be fun on gear," then this is the route for you! Start in a low alcove with some dirty rock, boulder to the lip and clip a bolt, then pull onto a sandy ledge and get a look at what lies above. Tackle a long section of positive holds on a slight over hang, and get in good gear for the committing crux in the small dihedral. Rest in the good ledge that accepts about half a person, then tackle the redpoint climbing to the end via jugs to the right of the crack. Get the one crucial handjam, and fight the pump up more jugs to the anchors. A really quality pitch.

Clip the first bolt and climb up the chimney while reaching around the corner to clip the first few bolts. when the chimney seems unclimbable, swing around the arete and head up it. well protected, committing move at the end.

A good warmup for the area but all-too-short.  Tackle committing and fun moves through the initial roof and the first bolt. A stick-clip is recommended.  Or, should you prefer to skip the roof, move in from the left on a ledge.

Above the roof, follow big plates and good holds to a steep finish that comes all too soon. More rock looms above the anchors but...

This a mixed route that starts out with a crack. The crack takes a left jog about 30-40 feet up that is a bit awkward. Eventually you'll get some bolts and head towards the anchors.

The crux is getting off the ground. Pretty straight forward after that.

A fun, pumpy outing with a sit down rest about 1/2 way up to keep the pump factor low.

Boulder up to a good ledge about six feet up to establish yourself under a huge roof. Lean out, grab the big, chalked jug at the lip and go for it. Swing up and over on good holds making fun moves to the first bolt. This move is committing and high enough that you should definitely stick-clip the first bolt before starting.

Above the big roof, follow big holds up to another smaller ledge where you can squeak out a sit-down rest.

Rest up and then gun it up ever steepening terrain to high crux and the anchor.

Short twin flake route left of Stealing Melinda.

The rightmost route on the wall, starts at a very thin face, and moves up a fun looking wall above.

Stick clip this one as well- the start is thin and the feet arent great.

Long route in the middle of the vert wall.

A fun gear-protected route that uses a crack for protection but offers good face holds, jugs, pockets and side-pulls for holds.

Boulder up the undercut start to a good horizontal ledge and your first piece of gear. Follow plates and good holds past the only bolt on the route and up the steepening rock to the crux, a faint bulge with fewer holds near the top. Trend left to follow the crack and clip the anchor.

Based on the large amount of spider webs I had to clear before and during climbing this route, I don't think this sees much traffic. Too bad...it's a fine line.

From the guidebook: "This excellent route begins just left of Gorilla. Climb easy moves to an undercling before the third bolt. Get psyched then crank hard on edges to reach a knob up and left. Grab a quick shake then dance up the face on solid edges interspersed with the occasional iron oxide jug."

Quality crimpy climb that requires crafty cranking.

The route has a couple longish moves to the first ledge. After the second ledge, head up a flake feature to some great sidepulling and under clings. last bolt to the anchors is a bit more run out than the rest of the route but it doesn't feel like it when you're up there.

Boulder up to the ledge and traverse right. Start climbing up and traverse left as you go. Tough for the grade

climb up to the ledge on its left side and traverse to the start of the route. It is mid-10 until the last bolt where a V2 problem with sharp holds awaits. Can be climbed when it is dripping a little bit.

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Routes in The Boneyard