A Josh classic! VERY popular route that draws a big crowd. Silent Scream climbs the bucketed face about thirty feet right of Who's First in the center of the SE face of Pixie Rock. Reach up, pull down. A little tricky move at the top keeps it exciting all the way home. Scramble down off the back and set your anchor. Long slings or a couple of cordalettes can be used to run the anchor up and over the top of the route.

Toproping: You can scramble up the back side of Pixie or up the steep slot to the left of the route to set an anchor at the top. Be very careful either way!

The name

Shock The Monkey

comes from a Peter Gabriel song of the same name from his 1982 Security release.

Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey)

Vaino's Lost in Pot

Tom's Solo

Silent but Deadly

If only Rae had thumbs

Rhythm of the Heat

Who's First

Lascivious Conduct

Swift and Silent

Srepopers Roid

Scream Chuck

Pixie Stick

Climbs a left-slanting crack to about the midway point and then continues straight up the featured face above.

Variations to this route exist.

Around and to the right of the popular south face of Pixie Rock is a single crack/flake system on the east-facing side. This goes about 5.7 and the most difficult moves are in the first half. Not popular and not as good as the more aesthetic face climbs on the south face.

Descend as for the other routes.

Climb the vertical to slightly bulging face via edges and sloping holds to a shared anchor with

Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey)

. The crux is low and over quickly, after which it's just fun and featured face climbing to the top.

Due to the southern orientation and the sloping nature of some holds it's perhaps best done when cold.

Interesting, the crux is the left leaning section in the middle.  More a mental crux than a tech/physical crux.

Follow the right leaning crack to the right side of the wall, then switch to the left leaning crack until it meets Whos first, then straight to the top.

Slabby face climb just left of Silent Scream. Unlike Silent Scream just to the right, this section of Pixie Rock is almost completely unfeatured. This is a great climb to slap up a TR and get familiar with JT friction climbing. At the mid point, a crack system slants up and left. Depending on where you move up from the crack, the difficuly of this climb can change by a couple of grades.

The name

Rythym Of The Heat

comes from a Peter Gabriel song of the same name from his 1982 Security release.

Unprotected face climbing along scoops and edges in mottled rock gains a slanting hand-crack which starts about halfway up and leads to the top.

Despite the moderate grade the lack of protection at the bottom makes this a popular top-rope or solo and a route which is seldom led.

Easy climbing past a couple of bolts leads into the business which involves technical moves up and over the bulge and onto the slab above. Once established on the slab run it out to the anchors.

Starts with a nice but short crack system to some good holds out left on the face to the top...pretty sustained moves throughout.

Access for TR via 4th class approach on back of Pixie formation.

This is to the right of "Lascivious Conduct" and has the same start. Climb the short crack, then hand traverse right and follow cracks and face to the two bolt anchor.

Climb a left slanting ramp and face to wispy cracks and finish with an easy crack past several ledges.

Description

Protection

Routes in Pixie Rock