A classic climb for the Reef, where the rock over all was very good. Although it appears as a traverse the climbing does not feel that way.

Paul's last first ascent in the US before he returned to the UK.

P1)Climb 20 feet then step left into a groove(small/med cams). Up this to a small tree then straight up passing three bolts to bolt belay. 180'5.6 (This anchor is the belay of the climb Afternoon Tea 5.7R that starts left of Bon Voyage)

P2) Move out left and head for some black rock passing a bolt, then tricky moves(#2 or 3 Wallnut/Rock helpfull)get you to the bolt belay for the climb PG Tips. Carry on past this anchor for another 50ft to a higher bolt anchor. 180'5.7

P3)Continue climbing left past three bolts to double anchors on top of large block. 160'5.7

P4)Continue up and then move left past first bolt. Then straight up past bolt to ledge. Clip another bolt to protect your second then walk along ledge to double anchors.170'5.8

P5)Some steeper climbing with a short section of not so great rock but well protected by 3 bolts lead to a one bolt and horn belay. 200'+ 5.7

Second will need to move up 15ft of easy ground for to reach belay.

Descent:-Scramble up and along the ledge for about 150' to an open area above the ridge. Here is double rap anchors (115')to the gully that leads back to the bottom of the canyon. Can also be done with a 70m rope. Watch the ends, its close.

Register just above the rap anchors.

Bon Voyage

The Great White Ridge

Focus Pocus

The Escape

Eccentric Spiderman

Gang of Four

Firth of Forth

Daffodil Dihedral

Moonbeam

Scorpion Face.

Thunder Pig

The Anglo/Japanese Route

Solstice

Zig Zag

Phoenix

Afternoon Tea. 5.7-R

Fell on Deaf Ear

A Touch of Sushi .

PG Tips. .

The Day of the Litheon.

No Faith

Spidermans Day Off .5.5R

Team Ross.

Real Sport . 5.8+R

Flying Visit

Great White Fright.

Color of Spring

Peenut Gallery.

After The Fall

Located in Two Fingers Canyon. Nice climbing on good rock.Walk through the canyon to the end of the canyon ,about 10mins from truck. The long line of slabs on the right below a smooth overhanging wall.Scramble up the bottom of the slab for about 100'.A small bush grows at about 10'up.

P1)Climb past a steep step left of a large block cam pro here.Then passed two bolts to double anchors below the smooth wall.150'5.7-R.Rap the route

The first route to be climbed in Two Fingers Canyon at the end of The Great White Wall.A nice line but does have some suspect rock.Walk through the canyon and the Gret White Ridge is obvious up on its right side (north). See topo photo. P1) Scramble up boulders to the crack at the start of the ridge.Climb the crack that trends left with some cams and one bolt to double anchors on the edge of the ridge.110'5.7 P2)Continue up the ridge by easy climbing to a ledge (cams).Step leftinto a groove,then right out of the groove to another ledge (bolt).Move right up the face passed another bolt to anchors. 180'5.8 P3)Climb 20' up to the buldge (bolt),pull the buldge then after a small cam continue passed double anchor bolts (Rap anchors for Day of Litheon)  to double anchors about 30' up to the right. 120'5.9.Register in small cairn left of belay.Descent. Rap the route.

Hard bouldery moves lead to some great slab climbing and a tricky finish.

Named due to a voilent thunderstorm that hit just as the final pitch was climbed. Starts directly opposite the Great White Ridge up the gray pillar that lies between a chimney and a line of steep huecos.The rock improves with hight.

P1)Climb past some poor rock just right of the chimney to a bolt at 15' .the rock gets much better after the second bolt.. Continue past 6 more bolts to hanging belay anchors. A fine on sight lead by Andy. 150' 5.10-

P2)Trend up to the right below the groove from the last of three bolts lower down to the large sloping hueco . Continue right to another large hueco and double anchors, 80'5.9 A0.

P3)Awkward moves above the belay then easier climbing to the top of the pitch and double anchors. 80' 5.10-.

Descent:- Rap single rope to the top of P2 the double ropes to the ground.

Start about 100 feet left (south) from Spiderman's day off.  You're heading toward the bush/tree about as high as the top of P2 on Spidey's day off.  Climb the seams left of the highest black triangular piece.  Rather than follow the corner, move up left onto the hump and watch for the loose rocks as you run for the tree.  Bush anchor.  P2 heads up the left corner crack and rightward onto the hump through some fragile rock.  Reach the bolted anchors for Spiderman's day off and rap that route (or rap to the tree).  2 70 meter ropes worked for us.  P1 may be cutting it close with a 60.

Head up nice brown slab towards a thin crack. Up this to a ledge, then some tricky moves over a couple of bulges to anchor.

The name of the climb is a requested dedication to Ed Webster's superb climb Primrose Dihedral on the Moses Tower. The climb is located on a slab of excellent rock on the left side of the canyon opposite such climbs as Cumbrian Way and A Touch of Sushi. To the left of this very recognizable route are three other climbs in the 5.9/10 range that have not as yet been recorded.

This climb was a project, and the crux section had repulsed some strong climbers until a flash onsight by Lance. Jim had a bit of trouble on the crux section

P1) Climb the left-facing leaning corner past six bolts and cams from 1/2" to 3" to double anchor belay.

Descent) Rap the route

Start up and pass the first bolts of Solstice to a ledge, then move right to the corner. Some cool stemming/jamming takes you to the anchor.

Great climbing all the way up the nice face.

Route climbs obvious crack which eventually goes right around a wide roof (bolt for pro). Anchor is in an alcove another 10 feet above that.

Starts a few feet left of a Taste of Sushi up another line of huecos.

P1) Up huecos trending left then back right past an overlap (bolt) then follow ramp left to double anchors. 160'5.6.

P2) Carry on up the groove/ramp then finish right past two bolts to anchor. 80'5.8.

Descent:- One can rap the route, or scramble the ledge to the right and rap A Touch of Sushi.

Starts at the foot of the Massive Alcove on the left (south side)as one enters the canyon. See topo.

P1) Climb the slab that steepens to a bolt at 25' then a good ledge. Belay with 4" and 3.5" cams.60' 5.7.

P2).Climb up and left across the slab past 5 bolts and cam and nut placements. First into a groove then a chimney, up this for 30' to double anchors on the left.160' 5.8+

P3). Tricky move above belay then up to a bolt at 35' then move left into a groove. Carry on about 60'to cam belay below a small right facing corner with two bolts in it.100'5.7+ .

P4).Climb past the bolts to the top and double anchors on the left. 60'5.9+.

Rap to top of P2 then long rap back to the start.

P1. Some hard moves the first 20ft lead to easier climbing to anchor. 5.10 100ft

P2. A well protected and airy pitch across the face. 5.8 60ft

A 70m rope will get you down, watch the ends.

A long fun climb on good rock. Starts just right of the entrance to Two Finger Canyon part way up the dark wave at a large tree below thin cracks . The route climbs the prominent Buttress that forms the final pitches of the Mile and a Quarter Traverse of the Great White Wall. .

P1)A thin crack/groove is followed to natural belays. 5.5 200'

P2). Climb 20'to pro and continue passed large block to a good ledge and natural belays . 5.6.200'.

P3)Start up easy white slab to a ledge then right passing blocks. Continue up the slab to the (some bolt pro). Continue up the slab to the start of a long large  ledge system (Girdle/Traverse) 5.8. 200'.(bolt belay)

P5). Scramble right for about 100' to a break in the wall.Go left about 50' then follow ramp passing a big white chimney moving  the right bolt belay below a long ledge system. 200' 5.7 200'

P6)Follow the ledge system to the right to the break in the bulging wall.  Climb the break to the summit.5.6  100'.

Descent. Rap the route ...Two 200' ropes .

Nice slab then up the flake. Move left across face to same finish as ATF.

Starts about 50' left of The Day of the Litheon.Climbs up the right hand line of huecos that lead into the upper left facing corner. See Topo.

P1) Climb up the huecos trending right to a ledge them into the corner. From the corner move back out left to a slab and bolt. Pass bolt then up to anchor. 100'5.7.

P2) Move out left past two bolts and up to the crack that leads to the top and double anchors. 80' 5.8+.

Rap the route.

The road into the Reef is now in very good condition both from I.70 and the Hanksville Road.This climb is on excellent rock  about 100' left of Afternoon Tea.PG Tips in the most popular brand of good British tea.Both climbs ground up bolts placed on lead.Graded carrying Bosch and the rest of the crap so?. Small cairn marks the start.Some run out on the lower section of the climb. Climb 20' to first bolt,passed this to another at about 40'higher. Three more bolts protect the 5.9 section. Climb directly to double anchors.140' 5.9. Rap the route.

Starts about about 40' left of the scramble up to the Great White Ridge. Look for a brown slab a few feet above the floor of the canyon. A fine expedition style climb with over all quite good rock. Four of the belays are with cams and stoppers. The descent is made from the traverse at the end of the sixth pitch that enables an escape down the raps of the Great White Ridge.

P1) Climb rounded slab ridge passed two bolts then easier rock to a right facing corner and double anchors.200' 5.7+.

P2) Climb up past two bolts and good pocket cams to a big ledge, belay in back of groove with cams and stoppers. 60' 5.9

P3)Face climb past two bolts,cams and nuts. At about 80' a 4" cam protects a 20' down climb into the big chimney on the left. Cam belays in back of chimney.100' 5.7.

P4)Stem up and clip bolt and face climb up crack to the ridge to cam and stopper belay. 40'5.8.

P5) Carry on up the ridge past tricky buldge (cam pro) . Then straight up open groove to step right to a big ledge on the right. Small cam Belay. 120'5.7. This belay is at the start of the traverse right to the Great White Ridge.

P6) From the ledge traverse right past a bolt to a notch in the ridge. Rap anchors a few feet down the groove. 70' 5.6.

Descent one singe rope rap then two double rope raps to the ground.

Climb past bolts heading for a left facing corner. Up the corner, then swing round arete and finish up right to the same double anchor for Reef Sport Climb.

Starts at the foot of the left edge of the entrance to Two Finger canyon. A easy pleasant climb to a nice view point. Overall the rock is good.There is some protection ,however only two placements on the whole climb was used by the FA party.

P1)Black rock marks the start .Climb up around the corner and head towards the foot of a shallow groove.Double Anchors.160'5.3R

P2)Climb the line of flakes on the left of the belay and follow slab to a ledge with large block belay. Rap anchors in place.80'5.5R.

P3)Climb up to the left of the obvious short right facing corner. Continue up slabs to the summit and great views. Double anchors.140' 5.4R.

Rap the Route

Starts down to the left of Anglo/Japanese route from the large brown dike. Scramble up the dike for about 60' to the start at double anchors. The climb takes an ascending line to the prominent chimney/groove on the skyline. Good protection for both leader and second. A fine climb with intricate moves.

P1) Climb just left of the anchors up to a bolt, and continue to where one can follow the slim runnel left past the odd bolt to the obvious overhang. Climb just past the roof and then back up right past a bolt to an easy dike. Follow this to anchors below the chimney/groove. 180' 5.10-

P2) Enter the groove from the left, then right, and then back left into the chimney. Follow the chimney to a bolt at its top with a sling and biner in place.

Lower from this for about 50' to double anchors on the climb Anglo/Japanese. 80' and a 50' lower. 5.8

Descent) 200' rap to the ground.

Walk through the canyon to its end (about 5 mins)To the open slab on the left with huecos at its start.The rock is very good.A pleasant Reef Sport climb.Climb done ground up bolts placed on lead from free stances.

P1).Climb easily to a bolt at 40',then to another about 40'higher. From here the climb gets more interesting .Climb to the next bolt at 70'.From this bolt a couple of thin moves then past one more bolt to double anchors.180' 5.8+R. Rap the route

Located on the left side of Two Fingers Canyon. It climbs the arete just left of The Escape climb.

P1) Start up the slanting brown ramp then the right edge past 4 bolts to a ledge. Move into the chimney to place small cams on the left. Down climb 10' and then move left onto a ramp that leads into good white rock with small wires and medium cams to a bolt. A tricky move goes past this then back right into the main corner, which is followed to double anchors.

Descent) double rope rap to the ground.

Named after a route on the Chalk cliffs  on the coast of Southern England. Apart from one pitch  a climb designed for the bad rock connoisseurs.A one star route with a four star view from its summit.Good practice for Alpine. Walk into Two Finger Canyon and its the first big light colored slab/pillar on the right.

P1)Follow the crack then over an overlap (bolt). Move left passed another bolt then up to ledge and double anchors.160'5.8.

P2) Continue up an easy slab for a 100' to a bolt that protects a nice steeper loose section. continue another 100' to double anchors.200' 5.7.

P3).Walk 50' to the start of a slab with good rock..Pull overlaps trending left to cam belays in big crack left side of bowl. 100' 5.6

P4) From here fourth class 600' up gullies to the summit and suberb views.

Descent:- The descent is the same as the Mile and a Bit Girdle Traverse of the Great White Wall. Just down to the right is a single bolt for a low angle 40' rap to a big ledge.Walk down to the right and at its end  down climb 20' to double anchors.Rap about 160' double rope rap to a big ledge . Walk south to next rap anchors.Rap full 200'keeping on the south edge . From here to groung is 4th class scrambling. Climb down the short groove,trend south down a blocky corner then left along a long ledge ,at its end down an easy slab to the right and follow to the entrance on the canyon.

Starts with some hard moves the first 25ft then eases off to some nice moderate climbing.

Burly start to some great climbing with a sting in the tail.

Layback corner to arête, then finish up crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)