Sheer Madness

Crack Warrior

She's So Cold

Boy Sage

You’ll Dance To Anything

Emotional Rescue

Jealous Rage

Arch Nemesis

Smears for Fears

Off the Rails

UnNamed

You’ll Dance To Anything is an interesting climb that ascends a less-than-vertical face. Somewhat like Edge of Might, it doesn’t take a lot of brawn to get up this thing. The start is fun arête slapping and face climbing. Get into the shallow dihedral and take a rest. Reach left around the arête to clip the last bolt. Cut left and enjoy the short, technical crux just below the anchor.

Crack Warrior is the eye catching dihedral on the right side of the the Warrior Wall.  The climbing starts on a relatively easy face.  Around the fifteen foot mark a dihedral begins to form; at this point the crux kicks in.  Desperately try to stick some flaring pin scars while standing on nothing substantial.  If you can get into the dihedral you'll be rewarded with some good shakes.  The remainder of the climb is less severe though fatigue could still spoil your plans.

She's So Cold is a tope-rope climb that uses the Emotional Rescue anchor.  Unlike the other EM variations, this route is an independent line from the ground up to the anchor.  The first part of the route is easy, the middle part is almost vertical with big holds, and the last part is the business.

Boy Sage is a fun and slightly more difficult alternative to Arch Nemesis, though they both share the same starting dihedral and crux.

Beginning in a fairly blank dihedral, Boy Sage is hard from the get-go. The technical crux is pretty fun...or maddening, depending on how much you like to stem. Love Wartley’s Revenge?  Great!  Here’s your climb. After about twenty feet of tricky climbing you’ll get to a juggy undercling. Traverse right for a few feet until it’s possible to reach some nice sidepulls. Crank on these face holds for a little while until it’s possible to reach a crack. Then boogie on up to the anchor next to the fir tree. 

Be very cautious about yarding on the four foot block at the base of the fir tree. It is completely detached and seems to be ready to go. 

Climb straight up chalked (interesting) holds. Traverse right around 15' to step on top of a bulge (this is the crux). Climb straight up small jugs and big feet. Head left at the large flake. Above the flake, straighten out, using jugs for your left hands and crimps for your right. Then, just a few easy moves to the anchor. Fairly sustained and aerobic climbing - 9+/10a pretty much the whole route. A nice long and fun line for the Butte. Do it.

Looking at Jealous Rage, it’s hard to believe that it’s an 11c. Once you get on though those doubts will be gone. A cryptic climb that will have you constantly looking for something a little bit better. It seems like that good foot or good hand is often just out of reach. The punchy section only lasts for about twenty feet though, until joining up with Arch Nemesis.

Be very cautious about yarding on the four foot block at the base of the fir tree. It is completely detached and seems to be ready to go.

Starting in a fairly blank dihedral, Arch Nemesis is hard from the get-go. The technical crux is a fun challenge but doesn’t last long. After about twenty feet of tricky stemming you’ll get to a long traverse to the right. The climbing from here on out is much less difficult but fun nonetheless. Cut right, grabbing huge jug underclings until you can join the arching flake. Follow the arching flake until it makes sense to bust out onto the face for a short stint just below the anchor. 

Be very cautious about yarding on the four foot block at the base of the fir tree. It is completely detached and seems to be ready to go.

Start with a funky double crack that forces you to layback. A long reach makes it easier; harder for shorter folks. Once in the crack, climb this until you reach the pruned shrub and step right onto the face. Moderate climbing on sloping crimps and smears and one tricky move takes you to the anchors.

 If coming at this from above, you have to duck under the boulder above the Crack Warrior chain anchor. Use the backup bolt to traverse under this until you are situated on the wide ledge above this route.

Off the Rails starts in the obvious finger crack a couple feet off the Guardrail Descent Trail.  The crux sequence through the bulge could be a bit tricky for those climbing up to this grade.  A couple bolts for the upper section and anchor chains may be added later.

TR only. Face between Smears for Fears and Crack Warrior

Mostly shade, this area has harder routes. I think it gets less traffic as it is harder to find. Typical Rocky Butte Basalt. Sport, Toprope, and Trad. Most climbers rap from an anchor and do a route, but there is one 3rd class descent to get to the main ledge of Warrior Wall, and the guardrail descent which may be considered low 5th class. One can also approach Warrior Wall from below.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in h. Warrior Wall