Lava and Kusha were the twin sons of Lord Rama and Sita in Hindu Mythology. Just up to the right of the bottom toe of the lower slab of the Krishna West, there is a pair of paralleling twin cracks that lean slightly leftward. These 2 new routes climb 38 meters from the grassy ledge to the 2-bolt anchor on top of

Kusha

. As the belayer, you can lower the leader to the 2-bolt anchor at the base of

Broken Arrow

as you start to climb the lower 15 feet. This allows a 70 meter rope to work for these twin pitches. Start off the grassy ledge, and gain the thin, left-leaning crack on the left side of the obvious flake. Continuous, powerful climbing leads to a thin section protected by a bolt (the crux). Follow past 2 more bolts up and right to gain the midway ledge. Continue up the large, left-facing dihedral above with the thin finger crack (5.9) in it, all the way to its top!

Lava

Babu

Broken Arrow

Ganesha Corner

Kusha

Miltrules

Cave Traverse

Parvati

Kartikeya

Across The Universe

Day Tripper

Full Circle

Okha

Hair Trigger

Shiva The Destroyer

Brahma

Come Together

Tomorrow Never Knows

Broken Arrow starts up the center of the wall from the lower ledge below the Full Circle Ledge. To safely approach the start, you can lower down from the 2 bolt anchor at the base of

Kartikeya

.

Climb straight up the obvious line of 7 bolts past a tricky 10b crux. At the huge horizontal break in the wall, climb up past the roof around the right side in the alcove. Moderate cracks lead up to the stellar finish in the steep, left-facing dihedral (10c). Follow the arching crack up to the 2-bolt anchor.

A 70 meter rope is required!

Start just right of

Kartikeya

in the obvious, left-facing corner. After pulling through the roof when the corner turns right-facing, step out rightward 8' to gain the upper, right-facing dihedral on the far right side of the huge roof. Thin, finger-size gear protect the crux in this amazing corner. 40 more feet of 5.7-5.8 to the 2-bolt anchor finish up this varied crack climb!

Just right of

Day Tripper

is an obvious right-facing corner. Stem up this beautiful start to the horizontal crack which forms the many roofs across the wall. After 10 more feet of climbing, traverse right and up to the ledge under the small roof above. Climb out the far right side of the roof through a classic thin-hands crack. Follow the long dihedral until you can spiral out right and around the arete to gain cracks leading to the 2-bolt anchor on top of

Hair Trigger

! This starts out 5.8 to a few 5.9 cruxes in the middle and then finishes with the long, 5.8 corner>arete! It is a really fun pitch!

Kusha is the rightward of the twin cracks. 5.9 climbing leads to a 2 bolt crux on thin face moves. Step up on the mid ledge, and pull through a steep roof to the left of the

Parvati

start. Continue up the huge, left-facing corner and up into the overhanging, wide corner above. A #4 Camalot protects the wide crack crux (5.9) near the top below the anchors.

Disregard the description in the “new boulder canyon guidebook”. This route is not 5.10a. Climbing left of the 2 bolt upper crux is where “Ganesha Corner” climbs. Also, do not start the pitch left of the bolts in the right facing dihedral(Ganesha Corner),,, Miltrules starts up the left side of the crack that starts

Hair Trigger

. Step out left to clip the 2 bolt lower crux (10b). Keeping your chest centered on the bolts is where the "rules" part of the name comes in. Power though the steep roof above starting on the right side of the 2 bolt crux (11a). From the no hands stance, climb straight up through the left side of the small roof (9+) and into the groove-like dihedral above. Trend up and leftward to the

Day Tripper

chains for the descent.

Start right of the cave, and make a rising traverse past several bolts to reach the upper part of

Shiva The Destroyer

and the anchors.

Climb out the left side of the steep cave passing 2 bolts, continue up the arete following the obvious line of bolts. Fun jugs and flakes lead up the face to the 2-bolt anchor.

Kartikeya is another Hindu deity who is known as the god of war and the brother of Ganesh. Climb past 2 bolts (10a), and trend left up into the diagonaling double cracks. Head up over some ledges to just beneath the far right side of the huge roof above. Clip 1 bolt below the roof, and pull the overhang on amazing features! The route follows crack features left of the arete at a moderate grade of 5.6/5.7 for the rest of the way. You will find a 2-bolt anchor with chains for the descent.

8 feet to the left of

Day Tripper

is "Across The Universe", 5.10b. This is an 85' leftward diagonalling pitch that takes natural gear the whole way.

Start up the aesthetic, left-arching crack, and bust 5.10b moves to gain the crack above. Continue up this diagonal line through the large roof at 5.10a (protect with a thin nut over the roof). This crack continues at 5.8-9 50 more feet to the anchor. It is a fun, natural line with thin, tricky gear right where you need it!

Start up the black groove on good natural gear to the one-bolt roof! Continue up beautiful cracks to the finishing left-facing dihedral!

Scramble up to a ledge system above a narrow gully (200 feet above the creek). Climb straight up 50 feet of moderate rock up to a massive, triangular, two-tiered roof. Pull through the roof (crux) via throws to a small edge and dish to good holds and the anchor above.

Start on the first 3 bolts of

Broken Arrow

. Step left to climb into the obvious, wide flake crack. One #4 Camalot protects the wide section of this beautiful feature. Continue up the corner above to gain the upper wall. Follow moderate cracks up and left to the

Babu

anchors or power up the 10c corner that is the finish for

Broken Arrow

. Okha is a very natural line that shares the 10b/c bolted start to

Broken Arrow

, and she was the sister of Lord Ganesh.

Hair Trigger is named after the multiple car-sized flakes that needed to be trundled to clean this amazing route. The flakes were very easy to dislodge, thus the name. Starting just right of

Milt Rules

, trend up and right past 1 bolt toward the triple roofs above. 2 more bolts help protect the gymnastic series of roofs (10d)! Continue up the long, left-facing dihedral to find challenging 5.9 climbing all the way to the 2-bolt anchor with chains. This is my favorite pitch on the wall!

Shiva The Destroyer was one of the pitches that existed before we started adding our 13 new routes. Starting off what we call "The Golden Ledge", climb out the left side of the cave, and follow bolts up the beautiful corner above. Pull through the wide crack finish, and scamper up right to the 2-bolt anchor. Shiva and Parvati were the parents of Ganesh and Kartikeya.

Sharing the starting 8 feet and the first bolt of

Shiva The Destroyer

, climb leftward to clip a bolt at the lip of the bulging, cave-like crux. Follow the obvious, left-facing dihedral up to about mid-height where a thin crack splits the face on the right side of the corner. Crank thin moves up to a single bolt protecting a rightward traverse to the sharp arete. Lieback up the arete and flakes to gain the upper finishing moves past a final bolt and more fun arete climbing!

Brahma is the Hindu god of creation.

Start 15 feet to the left of

A.T.U.

. Powerful crux moves off the ground using the cookie flake out right of the 1st bolt lead to fun 5.9 for the next 3 bolts. Follow the obvious, left-leaning crack/corner for 40' up to the featured headwall past 2 more bolts before the anchor. It's just too easy to stem out left before the final bolt, but it you choose to strictly face climb the headwall, expect a 5.10+ crux.

Start up the right-facing corner halfway up the gully, 15 feet uphill of

Come Together

. This line still needs more cleaning but climbs a nice natural line all the way to the anchor. Pull a steep bulge 25' off the ground to mantel onto a no hands ledge before gaining the obvious crack/corner above. Tomorrow Never Knows is currently the furthest left route on the wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Krishna West