The flake system in the center of the wall between EC and King Kong. Many holds are hollow, but there are great holds all the way up.

Manked

The Vodka Diet

Cowgirl Up

Happy Camper

Montezuma's Toe

Stinky Boots

Emotional Content

El Chupacabra

Tuff Gong

El Libro De Ruth

Kinky Boots

Pills on an Empty Stomach

Alesia

Full Yellow Jacket

Orange Crush

Gracie's Eight

Montezuma's Revenge

Good Rain

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades

Bury the Boot

King Kong

First Time Up

Plumb Bob

The Farrier

Recidivist

Pieces of Eight

Knock Knock

Supersoul Sureshot

Space Monkey

Filthy Sanchez

Spine Tingler

September Hero

Bats In The Cracks

Purple Nehi

Shares a start with Manked and works up to the first ledge of Emotional Content, but splits just right and leads into a good mix of blocky holds and flakes. Crux is a reach just above the permadraw, followed by a pull-up on good holds. Watch out for bats!

A spontaneous distraction.  

  Start on extended laybacks and techy reach-throughs to a rest(V4). From here step left to a corner and follow it for ten feet to a ledge (10b). From here you have a few options- traverse right into September Hero, Left into the 5.11 sport route nearby, or keep plugging up an exposed face to join the last two bolts on September Hero(fa). 

  On the first ascent, the first piece was pre-placed to avoid rolling down the hill into the poison ivy. Another option could be a crashpad.

Starts the same as H and H. But after first bolt, start to traverse right towards arête. You will traverse 3 bolts towards arête. Interesting crux, some real route reading necessary to make this one go. Cool, unique traverse...make sure you have competent belayer as you traverse...if you blow it could make for interesting pendulum fall. Once you reach arête, climb the jug bash all the way up.

The dirty chimney/dihedral formed by the left side of the flake system that makes up First Time Up. Chimney, stem, and squeeze your way to a dirty top out.

This route can't be missed, as it climbs the arete of the huge pillar leaning against the main face.  Fun moves as you hug the blunt arete and climb the face on either side of it, heading right at the top.

Reach high from the staring boulder to clip the first bolt and pull over a small roof on to a slab. Work past a difficult slab move. Easier climbing then leads to another challenging move just below the anchors. Take care not to z-clip the second bolt or just stickclip it to avoid the strenuous clip all together.  From Cole Fennel HCR guidebook p.92 #38

Starts in the broken dihedral and moves left onto a very beautiful face climb. Climb through crimps and jugs until the crux mantle at the top. Look out for the loose block at the top and try not to pull down onto your belayer.

The crux is off the ground, especially if you're short.  Climb small holds to a vegitated ledge for a rest before searching for the good holds as you follow the flake to the top.     Semi-secluded route, often overlooked, but a good climb. Starts on gray rock to the ledge, then orange & black rock to the anchors.

Fun climbing with good rests. Crux move at second bolt, a few ways to do it, you figure it out. Clipping the anchors can also present a challenge, get a solid stance because blowing it could put you on a ledge below.

Start out with really fun balancing and stemming on crimps in a dihedral. After passing the crux around #3, the climbing eases up a bit as it transitions to jugs and mild slopers.

Begin with a bouldery start on the arete above the low overhang, clipping the first two bolts on the right right side of the arete. The middle section stays on the left face, but close to the arete. The climbing gets easier as you go higher, swinging around to the right again.

This vegetated, blocky dihedral would make for an okay climb if it were cleaned. As is, climbing around all the growth is pretty horrendous.

It's the large roof extension of the Trad Route Manked. There are three permadraws under the roof...the first one being a long runner (a cord). Great views of HCR.

Climb the obtuse dihedral with some fun laybacking, stemming, and a couple of hard pulls to gain a ledge and a set of intermediate anchors. Stop here and you've completed "The Farrier" (5.11+). For 5.12 points, continue up past a thin cryptic crux pulling a bulge. Keep it together making a few more fun moves and reach another bolted anchor.

Orange Crush is the furthest route East on the crag. Situated right next to the barbed wire fence. OC is the longest route in HCR and super fun with a great view when you finish.

Be prepared to crimp, undercling, mantel, lie back and balance your way up this route, which will feel harder and headier than most any other 5.8 at the ranch, and significantly more involved and committing than most of the "8s" next door, at the Cliffs of Insanity. This fantastic line starts with a bouldery crux on thin holds to get off the ground, then works its way up ledges and flakes. A heady mantel guards the final moves to the Mussy hooks at the anchors. 

Crack to the right of Montezuma's Toe. Start up block near Montezuma's Toe then traverse right toward a tree and follow the crack up.

Stick clip High first bolt. Opening move is a short boulder problem on thin holds. A few good shake spots and then continued climbing to another short lived pull before going for the anchors. There’s a huckleberry shrub about 2/3 of the ways up, if it’s in season, enjoy the mid climb snack and save some berries for others. 

A great climb on great rock. The crux starts at the second bolt and the climbing slowly gets easier as one gets higher.

Vegetated, wet, blocky start to a lovely thin-hands crack with optional face holds.

The route starts off with blocky climbing on beautiful orange stone, a little overhung.  Towards the top the climbing gets thin and cruxy.

The offwidth crack/flake system that climbs out of the dihedral near the left end of the Far East wall (right of Kinky Boots).  It eats up big gear in the #3 to #5 sizes.  Long runners are a good idea. 

  Great flake, good rock and good pro everywhere except a short stretch in the middle.

Striking arete that climbs through a low crux and a number of interesting moves that will eventually spit you out onto the face and into a beautiful splitter fist crack to the anchors.

The Farrier is fantastic albeit short line that ascends an obtuse orange dihedral.  Use intermittent seams, edges, and foot smears to overcome increasingly difficult terrain before finally reaching a ledge and the anchors.  From the anchors you can either lower, continue straight up into Full Yellow Jacket, or trend right onto Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. 

  For me this line was a great exercise in footwork and body position.

Start on the left side of the arete with difficult moves at the beginning.  Crux is between the first and second bolts.

The route looks like it is never done because of all the lichen and lack of chalk, but it is a very good line. Tricky climbing takes you past the first couple of bolts. The rest of the route consists of interesting movement between good stances.

Hard route to the left of Plumb-Bob. It seems there is a bail biner on the route nearly everytime i walk by it. super fun crimpy/sidepully crux.

Climb a moderate, shallow left facing dihedral to obtain a high first bolt.  Decipher a mostly moderate sequence through the lower two thirds, taking advantage of ample rests.  Near the top pull a couple of hard, thin moves to reach a nice in-cut.  Shake out and then climb a sequence of edges and slopers to reach the chains. 

  I personally found this route to be soft and unsustained for the grade.  The fixed draw also struck me as unnecessary due to the solid clipping stance.  Perhaps it is useful for shorter climbers?  I prefer Elephant Ear which is the same style and grade.

Start on the face right of the arete in the vertical seam feature that is chalked up.  Head up and left towards the arete, ending up on a ledge on the left side of the arete for a nice rest.  Continue weaving up the arete and the right face on face holds to the anchors.  Barring the ledge halfway up, the rest of the route is pretty sustained.

Climb the arete under the roof and pull over onto lower angled, but still challenging, climbing above.  The last 15 feet are easier, as seen from the ground.  There are a few ways to pull the roof, but both seem equally as difficult. 

  The only thing that would make this route better is if it were more sustained and longer.

Very easy climbing leads to a ledge. After a couple of 5.10 moves, you find yourself at the anchors. The crux is getting the good holds to clip the anchors.

Climb on steep orange stone on sustained crimps to anchors. Great movement on beautiful stone. Crux is about midway up the route. Watch for bats in the cracks and underclings down low!!

There are some really good routes in the far east and even though it has the longest approach (all of 15 minutes or so) it is worth visiting. Fun in all grades.  

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Location

Protection

Routes in The Far East