The crux is one short lived move. The gear leading up to this is good and climbing after is very easy. If you like routes without chalk to guide your way this route will likely be up your alley.

Tarbaby

Cock Diesel

Pine Trees and Hula Hoops

Cat Food

Natural Selection

Canine

By the Way, I Did Your Mom

Night Time Is the Right Time

White Trash

I'll Buy That for a Dollar

Gimpy Grimpeur

Trojans

Chimpanzabubbas

Trident

Toxic Hueco

Ghandian Dilution

Inertial Twists

Crag Memorial

Gato

Meadowlark

Mind Bomb

Rocket to my brain

Boogie Till Ya Need Glasses

Wasted Wimper

Flying Rodent

Go Cat Go!

[Redacted]

Great power endurance route left of Mindbomb. A few easy clips lead to a crimpy 11+ section that builds in tempo as you set up to pull the crux roof. Boulder out the roof, clip the bolt, and enjoy mostly cruiser face above. The boulder problem at the lip clocks in at about V5 and seems to be pretty height dependent.

Climb up to a small ledge that is down and right of the main ledge.  Head straight up to the anchors.

Classic frolicking on steep rock with gargantuan holds. Climb it to the roof and clip the fixed draw at 5.11b or pull the roof for the 5.11d full credit.

Start off by hopping up on a ledge to clip the first bolt. From here, pull the small roof on buckets and monstrous underclings, eventually navigating the steeps to a good kneebar. Work out of the kneebar using more underclings and buckets, making sure not to get pumped. Pull another roof and grab hold of some crimps with excellent feet for another no-hands rest (if you get it juuust right). Make a few more big moves to yet another kneebar and shake out the forearms before making the 5.11b crux move- a big move to a sloper. Shake out on jugs under the roof and clip the fixed draw. From here, grope around the lip until a good jug can be found. Make a big move to another jug to pull the roof and enjoy juggy plates to the chains.

Start 30 feet right of the dihedral where a ramp/ low roof nearly meets the ground. Hand traverse left on super easy but hollow terrain to a no hands stance below the dihedral. Decide where the rock is the most solid and place your first piece. Climb jugs to another placement at a horizontal. Execute a "whoa" crux in the dihedral with a super high foot and the worst side pull you'll ever encounter to arrive at a two finger pocket in the second horizontal. Traverse right along this horizontal on hidden slots to the base of the arete. More straight forward face climbing will take you to the top. Move back left to the anchors of I'll Buy That for a Dollar.

Climb up to reach the ledge and make an easy move to clip the 1st bolt.   From here, use underclings and a small shallow crimp to make a long reach to another crimp before reaching the clipping jug for the 2nd bolt (crux).  From here, head a bit right and make a long reach to a good hold to clip the 3rd bolt.   Smooth sailing to the shuts.   Overall, this climb has just 1 really hard move.   Nice climbing though.

Standard NRG trad route with a mix of face, crack, and juggy roof moves.  There is less gear than appears from the ground, but all the cruxes are still well-protected.  It is easy to use this route to set up a TR on Trojans as well.

Use the same start as Pine Trees and Hula Hoops. Angle up and right along a series of left-facing flakes to a pin. Traverse right to a wide, plated crack and finish at the top.

This is one of the finest short powerful routes in the New River Gorge region.  When viewing it from the ground it is intimidating because it is hard to identify a single positive hold on the pristine white stone.  Start by soloing to a large platform 20' off the ground.  Be sure to stick clip this one before battling up through exquisite, well textured slopers.

The difficulty arises immediately after clipping the third bolt.  Here you must bear down on some shallow pockets, make a long rightward reach, and execute a precision deadpoint to a one inch edge.  This V6 boulder problem sequence is 5-8 moves depending on how many intermediates you use.  Rest up at the fourth bolt and then climb a 5.11- section to the anchor.

This beautiful white dihedral features some super difficult and tricky stemming. Start the route about 50 feet to the right, making an easy scramble to reach the obvious dihedral. Hard moves start coming at you quickly; don't get tunnel vision in the corner! The crux involves getting to an obvious flake below a fixed nut, with a few more hard moves underneath a roof. A redpoint crux getting over the last bulge leads you to those Meadow River top-layer jugs that you know and love.

Pull on jugs past a low bolt to get on a ledge. Climb straight up the face on huge jugs. Get into a diheadral and pull a small roof passing one more bolt then get to a final ledge and clip anchors.

Amazing climb.  A must do!  Start by climbing the easy section of rock to reach a stance on a large flake below the overhanging crack.  Make a few reachy/stemming moves to gain the wider portion of crack above.  Place some good gear here and find some tight hand jams to reach a good horizontal (crux).   From here, there's still a move or two to reach the shuts.

This is a really good route.  If you brought your trad rack, do it!   It feels like a sport route with gear.   Start by climbing up some large flakes, head up and left to reach the bolt on a thin face.   Make one thin, technical move (crux) and then head up and right to a stance.    The crux is much easier if you are tall. Otherwise you won't be able to easily reach past it. The fall is safe though and is protected by a bomber bolt.  From here, climb up the overhanging face on jugs and plates to the finish.

Preclip bolt two and climb delicately through some suspect rock. Perform a long move to a jug at the second bolt, and then make a few easy moves to a roof. One bolt after the roof, the route earns its grade with a tough boulder problem to overcome a stretch of blankness.

As the name suggests, the boulder can be done in three ways - the right and center methods both involve a long pull off a mono stack with the left or right hand, respectively, to a tiny divot or a lousy, condition-dependent sloper, respectively. The leftmost beta involves better holds that are unfortunately sideways. Significantly easier terrain leads to the anchors.

Pick your own adventure, or alternate betas so as to spread the tendon damage evenly between your hands.

If you come to this area, don't miss this route!  Truly classic!  Start by climbing up to gain a large hueco.  Figure out a way to reach the next good holds above it (crux).   From here, pull the small overhang and head up and right a bit aiming for the next larger overhang.  Once you reach the large overhang, head a bit left and pull over the lip using an awesome hold, but you have to find it.   Gain a stance and try to shake out.  The rest of the climbing is steep, but the holds are all super good, just move quickly.  The upper face is just fun stuff!

Fun roof climbing on jugs, to a harder than it looks headwall.  Maybe a bit soft at the grade?

Fun route, but the rock quality is not great until the roof. Climb through broken rock to the base of the roof, with a surprisingly cruxy move over very sharp blocks. Lots of epoxy-reinforced flakes and plates will take you to better stone in the roof, with very big moves between great holds. Easier rock leads to the anchors.

This is a great short powerful route.  Begin by soloing 20 feet of easy climbing to a spacious platform.  Pull some powerful moves to get to the first bolt.  With some difficulty establish yourself in the slopey dihedral.  Stay in the crack and yard hard on some nice finger locks to gain easier jugs to the top.

Good sustained climbing on typical awesome Meadow River features. Pull the crux at the third bolt and get into the corner. Get what you can and take a fun roof pull to a slabby face that guards the anchors. Catch your breath, make a few fun moves up the slab and sink a huge Meadow River iron laced bucket.

Begin ten feet left of Cat Food at some pockets. Climb past a bolt and a pin, angling right through the overhangs. Move right onto the headwall above Cat Food and finish with the last bolt and anchor of Cat Food.

This is primarily a sport route with a few pieces of gear.   Climb up the face passing 2 bolts to reach the overhang.   Reach way out and clip the 3rd bolt with a long draw and then remove the piece in the horizontal at the base of the roof to reduce the drag.   Reach out and follow the flakes in the overhang, clip the 4th bolt, and pull up to a stance with a hand jam (crux).   From here, make a long reach to a horizontal and then traverse left and up to the pin.   Climb up into the corner and follow the plated face to the finish.

There are distinct cruxes, thankfully they are varied in type, a hard bouldery crux low. Slightly insecure traversing, and a balancy redpoint crux higher. This is a great route, if you fire the low crux you have the route in the bag... or you could blow off the balance section.

Start on a slight overhang on the right side of the vegetated ledge, staying work straight up the obvious weakness through jugs to the bolted anchors above. The anchor you are heading for is the furthest left of the three that are all at about the same height.

Climb to a ledge then continue up the center of the face until it is possible to traverse right.  Continue straight up to easier terrain and finish on the Ghandian Dilution anchor.

After getting a lanky friend to hang the crux draw for you, climb through some easy terrain on suspect rock, and then pull a surprisingly fun and difficult iron cross crux below the roof (hint: you'll know you're on the right holds if they don't break off in your hands).

Crank some engaging and powerful moves over the roof to some chicken heads, and wince your way through sharp plated jugs to the anchors.

A route for someone who really loves the Meadow. The moves are good, but the rock...not so much.

This is a great route!  Would be deserving of more stars if it was a bit longer.   Start on a low boulder below some underclings and hand jams.  Make a difficult move to get started and head right at the 2nd bolt.  From here, find a kneebar, then continue straight up to the 3rd bolt.  Get a quick shake and traverse up and right to reach the 4th bolt.  From here, keep it together and head up into the short dihedral below the roof.   At the roof, hand over hand traverse left to reach the monster jugs at the lip of the roof to make the final clip.  Pull the roof using huge jugs to make one on the most fun moves on the climb to gain the anchors.  Overall, the climbing is fairly sustained throughout with a few shakes here and there.

Starts on a huge vegetated ledge. Climb to the ledge and continue up a plumb line beneath a tree that hangs over the top of the cliff. Ends at the third bolted anchor from the left of the rock face covered with dry leaves. The line is right behind a thin tall tree, if looking from the ground.

Route begins from the widest part of the huge vegetated ledge. Climb straight up past a short left-angling flake. Easy climbing afterwards, but tricky to protect. Tallest of the routes on the ledge, ends at the right most bolted anchors on the highest ledge. If you end up at the middle of the three anchors, you've diverged onto the 5.8 Grimpy Grimpeur on the left

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 2 Toxic Hueco Area