This is the harder of the two warm-ups. Bouldery moves off the ground lead to an intermittent layback and thin crux in the middle. For the finish you will encounter the pumpy undercling flake, that will spit you off if you are not accustomed to jamming. This will feel harder than 11d if you are not comfortable with crack climbing and undercling the whole thing.

Unknown A

Unknown B

Rasputin

Unknown

Hammer Down

South Tahoe Two-Step

On Beyond Zebra

Joe Bunyan (aka Stars and Stripes)

Blue Sky Black Clouds

Tree Beard

Weekend At Stars

Weekend At Bernie's

Longshanks

Stars At Bernies

Climb the first 6 bolts of "Unknown A", then cut left across a slightly runout face (easier than it looks) to gain the thin crack system - might want long runners on the last couple of bolts. Head up through insecure jams and barndoor-y climbing to the "Unknown A" anchors. Easy to set up a toprope off those anchors, maybe with a few directionals.

Splitter crack that's steeper than it looks.  Pulling past the bolt and getting established in the crack is the crux, and is more weird than hard. After that, mostly sustained hands.

The right side of the pillar also appears to go on gear, but looks quite a bit harder.  There's a line of fixed draws above both cracks that pulls a roof and looks stellar.

Leftmost route on the cliff on the far left side and also the easiest. Starts on an obvious layback flake. A few cruxes interspersed with good rests. Hardest move is right below the chains.

Two low bolts lead to a crack with a small juniper log.

Long and varied mixed route with 3 cruxes stacked on top of each other in the first half.  Climb to a high first bolt and immediately pull the first crux on a long reach past a shitty sloping block.  The next crux (probably the route crux) comes in the thin finger crack with shitty feet, with a final crux pulling into and through another blankish dihedral.

After the second dihedral, head a bit left on the ledge.  The route eases up a bit from here but it's still a good ways to the anchor.

Right finish to Blue Sky, Black Clouds that avoids that route's stopper crux by transitioning right into next crack system above the halfway jug rest. Pumpy liebacking precedes back to back boulder problems to a thank god finishing jug.

Boldery and sustained, just slightly overhanging, requiring granite ninja skillz.

The hardest route in the Tahoe area and the newest addition to the Cascade Cliff. In Joe's own words: "The stone is perfect for the skin, the features are round and interesting, and the climbing is thoughtful and all based around sensation." As for the other hard routes on the wall, bring your granite ninja skill set.

4 stars is not enough to describe this amazing route! This is the gem of the area and is worth the hike all on its own. Originally rated 12a, it's definitely one of the best 5.12s in Tahoe.

Start out by climbing up the juniper and feel the soft bark in your hands. Bring a sling or two for protection, since you have to stand up on the highest branches to clip the first bolt. Tip-toe to the very top of the tree, while starting the initial layback, where you can clip the 2nd bolt.

What follows is an amazing journey through some very cool terrain. Mostly sidepulls and underclings - most holds are perfectly positioned and naturally rounded. The doorknob hold is pretty wild! This pumpy line has several mini-cruxes, none of which are very hard. Just remember - the pump clock starts ticking once you leave the tree!

As far as I remember, a 70 m rope will almost get you down to the ground, so be prepared to climb a few feet down the tree and watch the ends when lowering.

Start on Weekend At Bernies then head left into the crux of Stars and Stripes (aka Joe Bunyan).

One of the 3 additions to the wall by Joe Kinder during the summer of 2013, this route requires a full granite ninja skill set. Climbing is on a slightly overhanging wall with rounded features - mostly sidepulls. Bouldery, but also sustained.

"This is probably one of my best routes that I have ever bolted and climbed. It has some of the craziest features like a massive tongue of granite that you climb like a tufa. As well as cruxes all the way to the anchor." - Joe Kinder

A nice article in Rock and Ice 227 describes in a lot of detail the controversy that this route stirred up, when a small juniper was cut down to make the initial moves off the deck safer.

Interesting route on bullet rock that traverses left, following a line of weakness. Cool sidepulls and edges with a heartbreaker crux between the last bolt and the anchors, making a big move from a crimp rail to a big rounded edge with bad feet.

This route was described as "Longshanks" in the main page description, but I don't think it's 5.11c.  Sounds right for the rest of the route, but the crux was quite a bit harder.  Definitely harder than the ".11d" warmup.

Start on Stars And Stripes (aka Joe Bunyan) and go right into Weekend At Bernies.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cascade Cliff